Hey autotune fellas... - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 05-05-2011, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
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Hey autotune fellas...

My mid and top ends are pretty solid at the moment.. I cant for the life of me figure out the low end though. Choppy on and off the gas, stalls, bad.

What are you guys running for 0 and 2% throttle ranges for AFRs?
I may be doing it wrong.. Ive set 2% for 15.5 (I believe it was that) for cruising throttle and when I let off and it hits zero and I get back on the gas I just get violent chops. Ive tried setting the 0% range for 15 even to see if it was maybe drowning in gas, but then again that doesnt make sense because without a TRE you get cut throttle anyway.

Ideas? Anyone have a chart they can post of something thats worked really well and thats really smooth on the 0-5% throttle ranges please :D

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post #2 of 7 Old 05-05-2011, 10:10 PM
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I am not sure how well the autotune will work at extremely low throttle openings. It's very close to the deceleration fuel cut point, which may confuse it. But, I've never messed with it. I did mine the old fashioned way, by watching a gauge and making manual adjustments. I suspect that the autotune will get it in the ballpark but you'll have to make manual adjustments right at the bottom.

What is it recommending for a percent-change in fuel delivery in that region? If it's erratic, the decel fuel cut may be confusing it. Look at the trend from 10% to 5% to 2%, whatever that trend is should continue all the way down to 0%.

Also, do you have the air-injection blocked off? It has to be blocked for the lambda sensor to give a correct reading.

The on/off throttle snatchiness will be worst in the vicinity of stoichiometric. Don't be afraid to lean it out down there. Lean misfire is north of 18:1, and at such light engine load it's quite safe to be just short of lean misfire. You intentionally want to reduce the power of the engine just as the fuel comes back on after deceleration fuel cut - that's how you can smooth it out - lean it out so that when the fuel comes back on, the engine makes hardly any power - presto, less snatchiness.

At next to no engine load, mine is in the 16:1 - 17:1 range (on a gauge, not using autotune).

Be prepared for a lot of fiddling to get this right. It takes far longer to get this right, than it does to get full throttle right.

I did a fair bit of my calibration on a steep downhill, because then it was possible to have the engine at various speeds in deceleration and note what happens on the gauge coming in and out of decel fuel cut.


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post #3 of 7 Old 05-05-2011, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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Definitely blocked off yes.

Here is what I noticed.. at NO adjustment the map I had was great.. perfect transition on and off gas down no. However I wanted to save a little gas down low so I adjusted it. I would imagine the map I was running was rich down low, I had it set for near stoich for sure. Maybe in 2 weeks when it stops raining here again Ill lean it out even more down low and see what happens. Ill run 16:1 from 0 and 2% settings and see where that takes me. Definitely trying to get that lean cruise though for those MPGs ;)

Do you have the autotune at all or were you just rocking a wideband and a fully done manual tune setup? I wouldnt say i have a problem at all, more like just wanted to cheat and find my perfect map quicker by asking

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post #4 of 7 Old 05-08-2011, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
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Couple updates.

AUTOTUNE CAN ONLY TUNE TO MAX LEAN OF 15:1 ON THE AFR TABLE CELLS. I will be seeing if this can be changed though by contacting dynojet.

YOU MUST CALIBRATE YOUR TPS SENSOR BY HITTING THE RESET AT ZERO THROTTLE AND THEN GOING WIDE OPEN FOR JUST A MOMENT. This was the most extreme issue I had so far with getting my bike to run even CORRECT period.

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post #5 of 7 Old 05-09-2011, 09:08 PM
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Haha, that'll do it. Sounds like autotune is not capable of working for a lean-cruise setup. I speak from experience stating that getting lean-cruise plus a reasonably smooth throttle takeup requires going much leaner than 15:1, it will be 16:1 - 18:1.

I never ran into that limitation, because autotune is not available at all for the older models (like mine) so my map is completely manually generated from watching a gauge. My data-logging for full throttle setup consisted of arranging a video camera to have the tach/speedo and the gauge in the same video frame and then doing a dragstrip pass in which I short-shifted to 3rd at 4000 rpm and took that full throttle all the way to redline ...


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post #6 of 7 Old 05-09-2011, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
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Im going to straight up strap a netbook to my gas tank and watch the AFRs that way after I get this 15:1 tuned in

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post #7 of 7 Old 05-10-2011, 04:20 PM
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I just sent you a PM before noticing that your bike is a 2nd-generation. No guarantee that anything similar to my map will work on yours!!


Helibars, MRA screen, Ohlins damper, reversed shift pattern, sorted suspension, braided lines, Michelin Pilot Power, all else stock 'coz it's fast enough!
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