Help! - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
 
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post #1 of 4 Old 04-15-2010, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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Help!

So I just started putting my rearsets and passenger pegs back together and on the bike. Had them back from powdercoating for a while but I was on vacation and didn't get a chance to install them. The clamp for the shift rod was way too tight and no way I could get it on. And while I was trying to push it on the shift rod actually pushed in about 1/2" I pulled it back out but now it doesn't feel right I can push it in and out. Is that a big deal? Did I break something inside? It still shifts okay with the bike on the stand. And when I tried to pry the clamp apart to slide on the shift rod easier it snapped in 1/2 . Does anyone know of any other bikes that will fit or even the part number for the kawi one? thanks
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post #2 of 4 Old 04-15-2010, 07:11 PM
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See if this helps. The site lists OEM parts/numbers: http://www.kawasakipartsnation.com/p.../Kawasaki.aspx
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post #3 of 4 Old 04-15-2010, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
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I found the part number I'm looking for.
13242-0016 I have it ordered. They told me 4 days to get it. I have a track day next weekend.

Now what I'm worried about is the shift shaft. I've never installed one before so not sure how they hook up inside. It kinda felt like something "popped" when I was pushing on it. Just my luck. I have a feeling I'm gonna end up missing my track day so I'll lose the money on that plus the parts I'll need for my bike to fix it. And plus the time I'll miss on riding waiting for the parts to get in.
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post #4 of 4 Old 04-19-2010, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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So after looking at parts diagrams I realized what the problem was. On the shift rod there is a spring, circlip, then a spacer on either side of the engine case, then another circlip holding it all together. I ended up taking my clutch out to see what was going on and it looked like this.



You can see the grove where the other circlip sits . So now what? Rad has to move forward a bit to take the headers off, headers have to come off to get the oil pan off, and the oil pan has to come off to get at the circlip on the other side of the case. Lucklly for me I have a very crafty friend and he made a little tool to reach in the oil pan behind the case and pull the circlip back to where it's supposed to be. Now that's all good. Putting the clutch back together and I think I may have another problem. The 4 torque limiter springs go installed like this


and I think mine are installed like this


Do any of you clutch experts know if this will do any harm? I don't have the pinch clamp yet to hook the shifter up so I can't ride the bike yet but I do have one from a yamaha here that I have bolted on for now just to change gears while it's on the stand. Neutral is fine, goes in all other gears fine, however with the clutch pulled in when it's in gear there is quite a bit of force on the wheel. I haven't had the bike out and really warmed up yet but the cable is adjusted good with only a few mm of freeplay. I actually tried tighteneing it up even more just to see if that would disengage the clutch better and make the wheel spin more freely but still nothing. The plates were out of the bike for a while. I followed everything in the manual putting them back in and I had them stacked when I took them out so everything is in the right place the only thing I'm not sure are those stacking springs. I warmed the bike up and it seemed to be better but I don't wanna ride it if there's a chance in doing damage . And I don't wanna take the clutch cover and the nut off again. I figured I've used it once already I don't wanna use it again and I don't think I could get a new one in by next weekend for my track day.
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