gen 1 spongy brakes thread beat to death - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 07-20-2014, 02:05 AM Thread Starter
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gen 1 spongy brakes thread beat to death

I know this topic has been beat to death but I would like to make some points. I have had this bike since it was brand new, brakes were amazing when it was new. after the first brake change brakes went spongy. so here is where I am highly confused on these 3 things that don't make since........ 1st they use to work great, 2nd I can take a piece of metal and take out the brake pads stick the piece of metal between both the calipers and tighten calipers around piece of metal and lever is solid and have a full lever, 3rd did a full rebuild on mc and rebuilt calipers and put braded break lines in and still nothing. so once again they use to work great so why does no one have a answer for this? what could possibly be causing this? could the mfr. of had a special bleeding process? once again I apologize for bringing up this topic again. but I know if I were to comment on an thread with this topic I know it would of been lost.
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post #2 of 9 Old 07-20-2014, 03:20 AM
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gen 1 calipers are very difficult to bleed to get all the old fluid out. I used a big plastic syringe (e-bay) to back-bleed from the caliper end and some old dark fluid finally came out. Like you, I refurbed the calipers and fitted braided brake lines. I was happy with the results, but I never got to track the bike before selling, so cant comment on hard use/fade issues. If you still have the brake pad shims, I would leave them in place as I believe they help dissipate heat. I like leaving things stock, so didn't want to change out the calipers unless I really had to

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post #3 of 9 Old 07-20-2014, 07:13 AM
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stock master is the biggest problem here. it is an inline non radial master. the radial master pushes more fluid, and allows for more brake feel.

try this thread. Ski

https://www.zx-10r.net/forum/showthread.php?t=234266

May we all, get to have a chance to ride the fast one, walk away wiser when we crash one, keep hopin that the best one is the last one.
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post #4 of 9 Old 07-20-2014, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you everyone for the reply. so what you are thinking is that it is just nearly impossible to bleed? I am not trying to argue and I do appreciate the response I am just trying to figure out what is going on with my factory equipment since like I said it worked great before the pad change. I put a solid piece of metal in between the calipers and I get a full and solid as a rock lever so that tells me that it has a good mc. I know changing stuff around will resolve my issue but what I am trying to do is figure this mystery out. like I said before I know this issue has been beat to death but I can't help but to think there is a answer somewhere out there. I also feel it is possibly a bleeding issue so if so what steps the did the factory take to perfect the bleeding process? because I am sure they didn't spend 3 hours per bike trying to get brakes bled.
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post #5 of 9 Old 07-20-2014, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
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ok so I have finally figured it out. My cousin has a friend that works at Kawasaki America he told me how they use to put the calipers together, was to fill calipers up with break fluid then to push the pistons in slightly then put the caliper together after hooking up break lines then you want to install pads and then install caliper on bike. after examining caliper when it was apart it has a very small whole that feeds the two pistons on the backside of the caliper with the bleeder being before this whole it is nearly impossible to get enough fluid to the back side of the caliper to get rid of all the air. so if your like me and don't want to put other bike parts on your bike only way to bleed these correctly is to take calipers apart and do how the factory did it like I explained earlier. I know have amazing breaks solid and full lever.
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post #6 of 9 Old 07-20-2014, 10:52 PM
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Glad you figured it out and your brakes are better. It seems like a lot of work to have to take the calipers apart every time you bleed the brakes. If your just riding street the Gen 1 brakes are good, for track they will fade under hard use.
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post #7 of 9 Old 07-20-2014, 11:57 PM Thread Starter
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I agree with you tech X, I really like to have my bike all original. If you don't care about keeping your bike original I definitely would recommend the swap.
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post #8 of 9 Old 07-21-2014, 12:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brewerszx10 View Post
I agree with you tech X, I really like to have my bike all original. If you don't care about keeping your bike original I definitely would recommend the swap.
My Gen 1 is used on the track only so I did swap out to a Brembo master,Nissin calipers and Galfer Superbike rotors. Brake's are very powerful.
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post #9 of 9 Old 07-21-2014, 02:39 AM
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I think you'll find that back bleeding as I described will push fluid into the callipers without the need for disassembly

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