>> Gas Cap Lubricant << - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
 8Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 14 Old 09-18-2018, 02:33 AM Thread Starter
Track Day Rider
 
Melampus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: South Florida...
Posts: 111
Posting Frequency
 
Garage
Question >> Gas Cap Lubricant <<

So it may sound menial, but the lock internals in my gas cap get consistently stiff/sticky. It makes it difficult to unlock the cap, and it's putting too much torsional stress on the key. I have been shooting it full of WD40 which lubes it up well, but I have to do it quite often.

Any other ideas to tackle this problem?
Melampus is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 14 Old 09-18-2018, 02:39 AM
Track Day Rider
 
TheRoadWarrior's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Pattaya Thailand
Posts: 193
Posting Frequency
 
i had the same problem, and i wasnt as pro-active about keeping it clean or lubed.... then this happend when i was at the gas station trying to open it to fill up.... had to wait for a friend to bring me a spare key and take it to the dealer to help me extract the broken off key tip... after that he used some white lithium based (i think) grease and a small thin brush for cleaning locks and cleaned it out real good then lubed it up again after... since then ive been shooting a little WD40 type stuff in there once a week and so far it has stayed pretty smooth

TheRoadWarrior is offline  
post #3 of 14 Old 09-18-2018, 02:52 AM
WSB Rider
 
evilaugust's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 655
Posting Frequency
 
Garage
I believe even WD40 will gum up after a while. Try some dry graphite type lube.
SkyDork and blink. like this.
evilaugust is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 14 Old 09-18-2018, 07:55 AM
REPOST Enforcement Mod
 
SkyDork's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Wesley Chapel, FL
Posts: 13,512
Posting Frequency
           
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by evilaugust View Post
I believe even WD40 will gum up after a while. Try some dry graphite type lube.

This. THIS. THIS!!!



Do NOT use WD-40!!! That shit is not a lubricant! It is a water displacer (hence the "WD") and cleaner. It's essentially kerosene to be used to clean and prevent contamination. It is great at cleaning stuff, but is a shitty lubricant. I don't know why people don't get this?



The cap is under tension from the rubber seal under the cap. Push down on the cap slightly as you turn the key and you'll never have to worry about breaking a key off in the lock. The key isn't a wrench. Push down as you turn and don't use WD-40. A small amount of graphite lube in the keyhole and you're done.

I may not be perfect, but at least I don't ride a Suzuki.

Ridding the Internet of bad grammar, 1 post at a time.
#WordCrimes




SkyDork is offline  
post #5 of 14 Old 09-19-2018, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
Track Day Rider
 
Melampus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: South Florida...
Posts: 111
Posting Frequency
 
Garage
Question >> Questions/Comments <<

ROADWARRIOR <> Sorry to hear about that mishap, and thank you for your reply. That it is exactly why I'm interested in finding a viable solution. Using a tiny brush sounds like a good idea to employ; irrespective of that not completely addressing the fluidity issue. Cleaning the lock's internals has to be a good thing, and would surely help. White lithium grease I had considered, but ruled it out as it's viscosity seemed to negate its ability to penetrate into the internals. Maybe using the brush coated in the grease would allow some penetration into the tab mechanism which seems to be the issue.

EVIL & SKYD <> Thanks guys, but my first attempt, months ago, was employing a graphite lube. Unfortunately, it never did a thing, and I've reapplied a few times, since... to no avail. It might had helped with the key pins, but not the actual tabs of the cap that extend out to lock & thus, retract to release the cap. When I open the cap & look at the locking assembly it appears relatively "whitish", and looks like it would not operate fluidly... which it does not.

SKYD <> I'm relatively familiar with the WD-40 story, and have been aware for quite some time that - as the story goes - it's the 40th version of a water displacement product. It is also an ubiquitous product that irrespective of it's intended purpose, does prove quite effective in a broad range of applications. Although it was a temporary fix, I agree with you that it's not the solution to my dilemma, and thus, I post here; looking for the advice of those wiser than me.

As for the gas cap gasket tension advice, I am also aware of this design, and always - every time - depress the cap before actuating the lock. This protocol alone has not been enough to mitigate said issue, and as previously mentioned above, graphite lube has not been effective. The entire locking mechanism itself - not necessarily the pins actuated by the key - are seemingly in dire need of lubrication.

Now with that said, WD-40 has unequivocally proven to free up the mechanism in dramatic fashion. Thus, I'm perfectly comfortable concluding upon your undeniable premise that said product is cleaning the mechanism enough to allow easier actuation & quasi-lubricating it just by the residual effect of the "kerosene" before it evaporates, but still the question remains... what lubricant - other than graphite - might you suggest for the large mechanism under the cap? I'm afraid the graphite just isn't cutting it, and I gotta think it's a lubricant issue.
Melampus is offline  
post #6 of 14 Old 09-20-2018, 08:18 AM
REPOST Enforcement Mod
 
SkyDork's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Wesley Chapel, FL
Posts: 13,512
Posting Frequency
           
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Melampus View Post

SKYD <> I'm relatively familiar with the WD-40 story, and have been aware for quite some time that - as the story goes - it's the 40th version of a water displacement product. It is also an ubiquitous product that irrespective of it's intended purpose, does prove quite effective in a broad range of applications. Although it was a temporary fix, I agree with you that it's not the solution to my dilemma, and thus, I post here; looking for the advice of those wiser than me.

As for the gas cap gasket tension advice, I am also aware of this design, and always - every time - depress the cap before actuating the lock. This protocol alone has not been enough to mitigate said issue, and as previously mentioned above, graphite lube has not been effective. The entire locking mechanism itself - not necessarily the pins actuated by the key - are seemingly in dire need of lubrication.
Now with that said, WD-40 has unequivocally proven to free up the mechanism in dramatic fashion. Thus, I'm perfectly comfortable concluding upon your undeniable premise that said product is cleaning the mechanism enough to allow easier actuation & quasi-lubricating it just by the residual effect of the "kerosene" before it evaporates, but still the question remains... what lubricant - other than graphite - might you suggest for the large mechanism under the cap? I'm afraid the graphite just isn't cutting it, and I gotta think it's a lubricant issue.
So, since you're pretty familiar with the information already, let's move onto what I see as the flaw with this part. It hasn't been cleaned well enough! That's my theory.

If it were my gas cap that was causing the issue you describe, then I would do the following (short of completely disassembling the components). Pull the cap off the tank. Spray the lock mechanism and the locking tab pretty generously with a penetrating oil or even WD-40. Let is sit for awhile. Then clean it. Use a low pressure air to force the suspended oil and debris out of the cap area. That will help to dry it out. The key after that is to get rid of the oil/WD-40. Use a good degreasing solvent to get rid of the crap you used to clean the mechanism. Use a low pressure compressed air source to blow that out and clean it up again. Denatured alcohol will help prep everything after that as the final prep step. Let it dry out real good. Overnight would be a good plan for that. Then put the cap back on the tank.

Once it's cleaned and dried out real well, then use the graphite powder to keep it lubricated.

Of course, all of that assumes that the problem is with the lock mechanism and not the key itself. Is the key bent or worn at all? Have you verified another key does the same thing?

Give that stuff a try and see what results you get from that.
blink. and evilaugust like this.

I may not be perfect, but at least I don't ride a Suzuki.

Ridding the Internet of bad grammar, 1 post at a time.
#WordCrimes




SkyDork is offline  
post #7 of 14 Old 09-20-2018, 12:16 PM
Track Day Rider
 
ZX10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: ka.na.da
Posts: 101
Posting Frequency
 
I use the penetrant Kleen flo honey goo XX for my gas cap lock once in a while. but I make sure it stays free of moisture / water to begin with.

In your trouble shooting OP it is not in the pressing down of the lid while working the lock. That to me suggests that you have already gone through trouble shooting and working the lock while the lid is open and it is still sticking the same way when there is no pressure on the lock tab / mechanism when the lid is open. Also in my experience a wore part works good with excessive lubrication when it fails to do the same with regular to dry ish lubrication. The cause of the problem in that scenario is not the lack of lubrication but it is the presence of wore out parts that can last further with excessive lubrication up to a point (not saying that this is in fact the case with your lock). Good luck.
SkyDork likes this.
ZX10 is offline  
post #8 of 14 Old 09-20-2018, 12:19 PM Thread Starter
Track Day Rider
 
Melampus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: South Florida...
Posts: 111
Posting Frequency
 
Garage
SKYD <> I've come to expect nothing less than incredibly helpful & simply logical insight from you. Thank you.

Question: "Low pressure air" is what more specifically? I can gain access to compressed air like in a garage, but I would think that to be "high-pressure"?

I just picked up a used fuel tank that's way nicer than what I have on it so when I change tanks I will follow your suggested protocol to a "T". As for the key, it definitely has a bit of twist to it towards the base, but the stiffness of the lock actuation is almost surely from the lock internals/tab assembly. They key inserts flush, and isn't in enough disrepair to cause my concern in that regard. Furthermore, my graphite key-lock lubricant isn't a dry powder, but rather a powder infused liquid penetrant... if that matters.


Last edited by Melampus; 09-20-2018 at 12:27 PM. Reason: <clarifying ambiguities>
Melampus is offline  
post #9 of 14 Old 09-20-2018, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
Track Day Rider
 
Melampus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: South Florida...
Posts: 111
Posting Frequency
 
Garage
ZX10 <> Looks like we were typing in concert, and I missed your input before I posted my last reply. Thank you, and I here you, in that, it could just be that it's 14 years-old. That said, I'll move forward with SKYD's protocol, and see what a good cleaning does because it's not really a high wear item.

Last edited by Melampus; 09-20-2018 at 02:10 PM. Reason: <formatting>
Melampus is offline  
post #10 of 14 Old 09-20-2018, 01:10 PM
REPOST Enforcement Mod
 
SkyDork's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Wesley Chapel, FL
Posts: 13,512
Posting Frequency
           
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Melampus View Post
Question: "Low pressure air" is what more specifically? I can gain access to compressed air like in a garage, but I would think that to be "high-pressure"?


The air compressor is fine. I meant low pressure in the amount of air you're supplying with it. Set your regulator to something less than 40psi to try and dislodge any debris in there and dry it out. You don't need anything more than that on your nozzle. Just because your compressor can create high pressure air, it doesn't have to supply it at the end. That's all I meant.

I see ZX10's post above and he also makes some good points. When I read your previous post, I read that statement about depressing the cap when "actuating" the lock as being to the unlock position. He read that differently. So, yeah, I think we both meant "press down to unlock". There's no need to move the key to lock it. You just push the cap back into place for that. As he said also, you should try to lock and unlock the cap with it in the open position to feel the action and move everything. Try that a few times while cleaning it.

I'm not familiar enough with the graphite fluid. If the fluid evaporates well and doesn't leave a film that collects crap on it, it should be fine. I've always had the best luck with the dry powder.

I may not be perfect, but at least I don't ride a Suzuki.

Ridding the Internet of bad grammar, 1 post at a time.
#WordCrimes




SkyDork is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki ZX-10R.net forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
WTB 06 07 Engine / motor <<<<<<<<< NMBR1SPT Wanted: Buy or Trade 6 09-14-2013 06:55 PM
>>>>>2008 zx-10r - $6,300<<<<<< swing lo Bikes 4 Sale 12 07-14-2010 11:16 PM
Fellow ZX10 family... Need your support<<<<<<<<<<<< nbrion1 The Out House 25 01-22-2010 07:25 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome