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post #1 of 12 Old 08-12-2008, 04:21 PM Thread Starter
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Front forks

Hi new here. I was wondering if anyone could give me advice on my 2005 ZX-10 track bike? I purchased it set up for the track. I had it shipped from California to Florida. I think the shipper tightened tie down straps to tight, because I noticed that the fork seals were blown. I purchased new ones removed forks and brought them down to a mechanic friends workbench so I could access his tools. Took fork caps off and could not get to the lock nut on top of damping rod because the white plastic spring guard would not go down far enough down to get at bolt. I had to remove the springs and for tubes by removing them from the bottom of the fork. I then tried to empty out the oil as much as I could by shaking them and compressing them. I replaced oil with recommended amount and weight ( which I forgotten now).
After re-installing them on the bike I noticed that They were very stiff. They may have been that stiff before, but I don't know if the springs and valve are stock or not. I now have about 2 1/2 inches of travel even after I do a small stoppie. Is that normal? Is it possible that I put too much oil back in? I put a tie wrap on fork leg to measure it, and can not make it go lower than about 1 1/2 to 2 inches above the fork stop. Why could I not remove the tubes, but from the bottom? Can any one please help me? Should I not worry about it and track day it? Thank You in advance...Mike
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post #2 of 12 Old 08-13-2008, 08:18 PM
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Because you need a fork spring compressor to access the nut behind the white spacer. Secondly what weight oil did you use? Also what level did you put the oil up to?

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post #3 of 12 Old 08-13-2008, 08:20 PM
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If you didn't get the top cap off you did not access the damping rod to bleed the system after reassymble big no no. I would take it apart and have someone who has the proper tools do it or your front end will not act right.

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post #4 of 12 Old 08-14-2008, 02:23 PM
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Too much fluid will not allow the forks to compress all the way which is what you are experiencing. The fork springs are 1.0 kg/mm which should be suited for a ~200 lb rider give or take. You should be able to use nearly all suspension travel as long as the spring is in the ballpark for your weight.

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post #5 of 12 Old 08-14-2008, 02:32 PM
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If you didn't get the top cap off you did not access the damping rod to bleed the system after reassembly big no no. I would take it apart and have someone who has the proper tools do it or your front end will not act right.


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post #6 of 12 Old 08-14-2008, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
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I did get the caps off, and I did use a spring compressor. I used the recommended amount of 10w oil. I must not of taken all the old oil out. Is there a way to remove a little oil without taking them apart again?
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post #7 of 12 Old 08-15-2008, 12:02 AM
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So now I'm a Ninny huh????????

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post #8 of 12 Old 08-15-2008, 12:08 AM
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I did get the caps off, and I did use a spring compressor. I used the recommended amount of 10w oil. I must not of taken all the old oil out. Is there a way to remove a little oil without taking them apart again?
Well 10W is a bit thick. I use 5W but I only way 160. I have racetech .90 springs in the front and racetech gold valves (rebound and compression) as well. Also if you used a spring compressor how couldn't you get to the nut inside the white spacer? If you couldn't get to that nut ther was no way you could have removed the cap from the inner cartridge. Are you sure you didn't just take out the entire cartridge? That is what it sounds like to me. By removing the bottom bolt and removing the cap from the outer fork tube all you are doing is removing the entire cartridge. You need to remove the cap off of the cartridge by accessing the lock nut. Then you can access the damping rod to properly bleed the forks.

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post #9 of 12 Old 08-15-2008, 12:08 AM
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What do you mean by "could not get to the lock nut on top of damping rod" and "I had to remove the springs and for tubes by removing them from the bottom of the fork". That sounds like you never got the cap off.

Do you mean that you unscrewed the cap from the tube; but not the damping rod. It must come off the rod; thats what is meant by removing the cap.


Always measure the oil level after removing bubbles from the top of the fork tube with everything fully compressed (no springs etc installed)
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post #10 of 12 Old 08-15-2008, 12:11 AM
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What do you mean by "could not get to the lock nut on top of damping rod" and "I had to remove the springs and for tubes by removing them from the bottom of the fork". That sounds like you never got the cap off.

Do you mean that you unscrewed the cap from the tube; but not the damping rod. It must come off the rod; thats what is meant by removing the cap.


Always measure the oil level after removing bubbles from the top of the fork tube with everything fully compressed (no springs etc installed)
HA HA I beat you to the same comment!!!!!!! J/K Maybe next time!!!!

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