Join Date: May 2004
Location: Toronto, Canada
Get the wiring diagram, find out what else is on the same circuit (there is more than just the tail/brake lamp - I think all the running lights and instrument lighting are on the same circuit), and unplug EVERYTHING on that circuit. Then find out if the fuse blows.
If the fuse blows with *everything* unplugged, then you have no choice but to physically inspect every inch of the wiring harness to find the short-circuit or crossed circuit. You can confirm that this is the fault by removing the fuse and measuring resistance from the fuse holder to ground. If everything is unplugged and there is no short-circuit, it should read infinite resistance.
If the fuse doesn't blow with everything unplugged, then one by one, measure the resistance of every component with a digital multimeter before plugging it back in and confirming that the fuse does not blow. If you find a load that's zero resistance, or you find one that blows the fuse the moment it is reconnected, you have found the problem.
Electrical problems suck.
Helibars, MRA screen, Ohlins damper, reversed shift pattern, sorted suspension, braided lines, Michelin Pilot Power, all else stock 'coz it's fast enough!