Conrod & crankshaft questions - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 14 Old 02-08-2010, 07:47 AM Thread Starter
GP Star
 
tasos's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Cyprus, Europe
Posts: 2,658
Posting Frequency
Images: 8
       
Send a message via Yahoo to tasos
Conrod & crankshaft questions

Ok then, some questions for the mechs:

Fisrt:
I have 8 conrods, 4 marked with "L" and 4 marked with "K".
I believe it has to do with weight. Which are better and why?
Which ones to use, the ones that are visually better?

Second:
How much torque should i use on the conrod bolts? The manual describes 2 ways that are way difficult. Any "real world" torque specs? Really tight by hand maybe around 36-40Nm?

Third:
I cannot measure with accuracy the thickness of my crankshaft bearings.
I know for sure the crankshaft diameter was measured ok. If i put new bearings (color matched) should i be ok? If i am on the tight side i could use the old ones already in the cases?

Note : Cases, crankshaft and conrods are from different engines (but they do match, bought them as spare parts).

Thanks for all the help

Last edited by tasos; 02-08-2010 at 09:04 AM.
tasos is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 14 Old 02-08-2010, 09:55 AM
GP Rider
 
sweetride10r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Clinton Twp, Michigan
Posts: 1,202
Posting Frequency
Images: 5
  
Fisrt:
take 4 of them to a shop and have the blanced

Second:
go by rod bolt strech you can get the tool from almost any auto parts store

Third:
by color code should work out just make sure to double check your clearances plata-gauge unles you are trying to make clearances to your own spec

bike is down for not but not out
turbo project is a slow go no money

Need some work done
call 586-214-2414
sweetride10r is offline  
post #3 of 14 Old 02-08-2010, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
GP Star
 
tasos's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Cyprus, Europe
Posts: 2,658
Posting Frequency
Images: 8
       
Send a message via Yahoo to tasos
Quote:
Originally Posted by sweetride10r View Post
Fisrt:
take 4 of them to a shop and have the blanced ???

Second:
go by rod bolt strech you can get the tool from almost any auto parts store

Third:
by color code should work out just make sure to double check your clearances plata-gauge unles you are trying to make clearances to your own spec

No i am trying to put your cases with a crankshaft i bought, which was tested twice, and all specs was found in range. Plastigaauge is hard to get accurate readings.
Should i use yours? Any history on the cases, why they were split? Thanks
tasos is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 14 Old 02-08-2010, 10:01 AM
Speed Freak
 
garth285's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: PSL, Florida
Posts: 12,730
Posting Frequency
           
Send a message via AIM to garth285
Hey bud! Hows everything.....

well with the connecting rods, if I were you I would measure them on a pretty accurate scale and use the lighter pair but make sure you use all of the same lettered rods. also mark on the rods the weight of each rod you can use this to match them to the pistons to balance the assembly your self. You measure the piston as well and mate up the heaviest rod with the lightest piston and so on to have them all about the same weight or as close as possible.

As for torque. I have always used BRAND NEW connecting rod bolts and nuts, those bolts are only supposed to stretch so much... I believe the manual calls for a certain torque on the nuts and then you tighten them 90* you can go to anywhere that has tools and probably find them, its basically a socket extension with a degree wheel on there and once you learn how to set it up, its actually VERY easy to use and put the correct angle on the bolt.... kawi did that for a reason so I Would stick with it honestly bud.

Crank bearings..... If I were you I would order the new color matched bearings, then I would get plastigage, apply it on the crank, tighten the case bolts down to torque spec and then measure the plastigage and see what oil clearance you have on the crank, there should be a spec in the book, if you don't know what I'm talking about with the plastigage check out this.

http://www.ehow.com/how_2142943_use-...learances.html
garth285 is offline  
post #5 of 14 Old 02-08-2010, 10:08 AM
Speed Freak
 
garth285's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: PSL, Florida
Posts: 12,730
Posting Frequency
           
Send a message via AIM to garth285
Quote:
Originally Posted by tasos View Post
No i am trying to put your cases with a crankshaft i bought, which was tested twice, and all specs was found in range. Plastigaauge is hard to get accurate readings.
Should i use yours? Any history on the cases, why they were split? Thanks
what sorta readings are you getting???
garth285 is offline  
post #6 of 14 Old 02-08-2010, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
GP Star
 
tasos's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Cyprus, Europe
Posts: 2,658
Posting Frequency
Images: 8
       
Send a message via Yahoo to tasos
Quote:
Originally Posted by garth285 View Post
Hey bud! Hows everything.....

well with the connecting rods, if I were you I would measure them on a pretty accurate scale and use the lighter pair but make sure you use all of the same lettered rods. also mark on the rods the weight of each rod you can use this to match them to the pistons to balance the assembly your self. You measure the piston as well and mate up the heaviest rod with the lightest piston and so on to have them all about the same weight or as close as possible.

As for torque. I have always used BRAND NEW connecting rod bolts and nuts, those bolts are only supposed to stretch so much... I believe the manual calls for a certain torque on the nuts and then you tighten them 90* you can go to anywhere that has tools and probably find them, its basically a socket extension with a degree wheel on there and once you learn how to set it up, its actually VERY easy to use and put the correct angle on the bolt.... kawi did that for a reason so I Would stick with it honestly bud.

Crank bearings..... If I were you I would order the new color matched bearings, then I would get plastigage, apply it on the crank, tighten the case bolts down to torque spec and then measure the plastigage and see what oil clearance you have on the crank, there should be a spec in the book, if you don't know what I'm talking about with the plastigage check out this.

http://www.ehow.com/how_2142943_use-...learances.html
Thanks bud
I already got new bolts and nuts. I also got new conrod bearings.
I weighted the rods and they all the same (3 decimals), pistons the same so i am ok...

I get different readings with the green plasticgage, i'll try again...


Another question: How do you remove the bearing from the gearbox "cover" to put the ceramic one? Is there a special tool?


Don't forget guys, i live on a tiny island on the...other half of the world Viva la Internet
tasos is offline  
post #7 of 14 Old 02-08-2010, 10:12 AM Thread Starter
GP Star
 
tasos's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Cyprus, Europe
Posts: 2,658
Posting Frequency
Images: 8
       
Send a message via Yahoo to tasos
Quote:
Originally Posted by garth285 View Post
I believe the manual calls for a certain torque on the nuts and then you tighten them 90*
It says 20nM + 150 degrees
tasos is offline  
post #8 of 14 Old 02-08-2010, 10:20 AM
Speed Freak
 
garth285's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: PSL, Florida
Posts: 12,730
Posting Frequency
           
Send a message via AIM to garth285
oh ok, yeah I forget, was just going off the top of my head...

as for that ceramic bearing, you need a bearing puller, They have one that pulls from the inside diameter of the bearing, lock it in a vice and pull her out...
garth285 is offline  
post #9 of 14 Old 02-08-2010, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
GP Star
 
tasos's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Cyprus, Europe
Posts: 2,658
Posting Frequency
Images: 8
       
Send a message via Yahoo to tasos
Quote:
Originally Posted by garth285 View Post
as for that ceramic bearing, you need a bearing puller, They have one that pulls from the inside diameter of the bearing, lock it in a vice and pull her out...
I found a smaller one and just got it out
tasos is offline  
post #10 of 14 Old 02-08-2010, 10:35 AM
Speed Freak
 
garth285's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: PSL, Florida
Posts: 12,730
Posting Frequency
           
Send a message via AIM to garth285
awesome, I loved those ceramic bearings, you will see the trans spins so much easier with them ;-)
garth285 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki ZX-10R.net forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
06-07 conrod dimensions greenman43 Performance and Tech 8 11-24-2009 06:00 AM
Exhaust Header & Slip On Questions?? shotgun713 General Motorcycle Discussions 4 11-30-2008 03:48 AM
Laguna Seca Motogp, lodging & track questions OmegaX The Out House 11 06-06-2008 07:01 PM
2006 zx10r Questions & Issues kjonjetmech Performance and Tech 7 09-21-2007 06:38 PM
crankshaft splatmaster ZX11 Discussion 6 03-16-2006 10:09 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome