Clutch will not disengage - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 14 Old 10-28-2014, 08:52 AM Thread Starter
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Clutch will not disengage

I'm lost on this so bare with me and yes I have searched. I had a clutch replaced at a shop and the tech told me he "upgraded" my clutch because it had "unnecessary" extra steel plates (2 he said) in it so he added more friction and steels for better performance. I rode the other day it was hard to shift and upon coming to a stop in 2nd the bike lunged forward until stalling. When I removed cover the rod pulled through the release "fork" . I replaced that with new bearings. Test drive again it was fine for about the same amount of time but I felt the engagement point getting lower and lower closer to the grip. Stalled again same thing. I ordered a cable but the one in it currently is not that old. I get the new cable wed but I think something else is wrong any ideas? Please help before winter comes and I can't ride.

Note: after the initial clutch job I put down about 700 miles no problem.
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post #2 of 14 Old 10-28-2014, 09:36 AM
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The clutch may be overheating. Could you try setting the initial engagement point a bit further out (further from the grip) while the clutch is cold and see if that helps?
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post #3 of 14 Old 10-28-2014, 10:06 AM
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The clutch is about stack height the Tech may have changed your stack height just enough to cause the clutch to drag and heat up. The plate's he changed may be just a bit thicker and is causing a stack height problem. Check the manuel for stack height and then check the stack height of what you have they should be identical. If their not then you need to change plate's to get the proper height.

Last edited by TechX; 10-28-2014 at 05:04 PM.
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post #4 of 14 Old 10-28-2014, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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Response 1: I have to adjust on the right side of the cable to get it in gear but it fades after less than 3 minutes of riding.

Response 2: I will check the height tonight. Tech claimed the thickness of the plates removed was enough for another "set" of clutch friction and Steele. If I use a raytec thermometer how far from engine temp should my clutch be? I ride for 3 minutes with Mabye 6 shifts in the neighborhood and it fades out so bad I have to pull the cable out of the hold and rest te cable tube on the outside of the adjust to make it home. I replaced the rod but not the piece that looks like a golf tee. I will check it tonight and take pictures. This is what I get for not fixing the clutch myself!
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post #5 of 14 Old 10-28-2014, 05:11 PM
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If stack height is to short no clutch if stack height is to tall clutch will drag and not disengage. If the clutch that was replaced was a stock oem unit I can't understand why the guy would replace plate's and not check stack height. You might want to ask him if he checked the stack height after replacing those plates.
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post #6 of 14 Old 10-28-2014, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch is shot I need to figure out why. I found one extra Steele and friction than what the book states also the clutch spring was in the middle which the book says should be stacked first?
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post #7 of 14 Old 10-29-2014, 10:27 AM
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Ouch. I don't think I would let that guy do any more on your bike.
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post #8 of 14 Old 02-25-2015, 07:07 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry to bring this back from the dead. I am going to do another clutch write up for those who are doing this blind as I am. A few questions
1. I ordered my clutch kit online I did not recieve the "thinner" clutch fibers for the spring plate and the clutch kit I have is Kevlar. Can I mix oem to use the spring plate?
2. What will happen if I run without the spring plate? With just steel and fiber??
3. In theory is measuring every Steele and fiber with a micrometer the same as using a dial indicator to measure the stack height?? What is the best way to measure? And if I am off I was told to use an oem "shim" Steele that comes in 3 different sizes will this be ok? I don't want this to get screwed up again I am trying to make bike week daytoba
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post #9 of 14 Old 03-05-2015, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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Clutch issues still

i measured my stack piece by piece and and added them up. I was less than 1mm under. I think .08 if i remember. Once i have it all together i still have an issue. The rod as you can see in the picture is over the half way mark before it starts to pull the pin to release the clutch. Why is that? Im so lost i am about to take it to the dealer. My measurements were not that off. How many bearings go on the outside plate that houses the springs? I only had one? Also once the cover is removed is the pin supposed to have some free play or movement? Any help is appreciated
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post #10 of 14 Old 03-05-2015, 11:15 AM
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not following what ur saying about stack height, .08 is 2mm. pic shows rod not seated and external return spring missing. has to be rotated back, dropped and lifted slightly to engage the pressure plate puller rod correctly. done u should feel spring pressure and clutch adjustment within range if clutch stacked correctly. assume u replaced damaged clutch puller rod and have pressure plate rod behind pressure plate pulling pressure plate outward.
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