Cam Degreeing numbers? - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 06-25-2012, 06:13 PM Thread Starter
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Cam Degreeing numbers?

What effect would it have on the power to use a 105/107ex. Seems like most guys use a higher intake numbers and lower exhaust numbers. Something like 110/102. Setting the Exhaust higher then intake would do what theoretically?
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post #2 of 8 Old 06-26-2012, 06:43 AM
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have minimal impact.......the shared lobe centers create the complimenting power.....ie105/105

Getting the A/F mixture in for the desired power delivery is the biggest key, getting it out is not as key, but can assist in cylinder filling.

Along with cam duration and profile, it sometimes makes very complimenting power delivery and sometimes no effect at all.

Old school numbers used to be 102/104....but then the duration and profile were made for it..........newer 10's run 111/102 and have different duration and profiles to match.

You can move the undesigned cam to different degrees, as long as it doesn't touch the piston you can squeak out those common lobe centers to maximize.

They take pure supersport bikes and try to make them streetable and give them manners, we turn around and want what they took away.

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and even made more Evil by Woolich.
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post #3 of 8 Old 06-26-2012, 04:29 PM
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Are you still getting beat by them odd sounding motors. Rule 1 Get all the compression you can get, Take the bumps out of the ports, intake especially, and double check and tripple ck piston to valve clearance. The book says 10 degrees before or 10 degrees after, spread it out to about 14 degrees and work to 5 degrees checking every degree of crank rotation for clearance. I use acouple of light weight hardware store springs and only use the # 1 cylinder valves at the very end of the head. You can mill head .015 and have plenty of room. .020 if you are brave with the thinest head gasket you can get. That will set your squish at just a little less than minimum.

These guys are pretty smart and this is a great place to come for info. By the way find the factory race manuel in the sticky and store in in your computer.

Honest.
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post #4 of 8 Old 06-26-2012, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrj969 View Post
are you still getting beat by them odd sounding motors. Rule 1 get all the compression you can get, take the bumps out of the ports, intake especially, and double check and tripple ck piston to valve clearance. The book says 10 degrees before or 10 degrees after, spread it out to about 14 degrees and work to 5 degrees checking every degree of crank rotation for clearance. I use acouple of light weight hardware store springs and only use the # 1 cylinder valves at the very end of the head. You can mill head .015 and have plenty of room. .020 if you are brave with the thinest head gasket you can get. That will set your squish at just a little less than minimum.

These guys are pretty smart and this is a great place to come for info. By the way find the factory race manuel in the sticky and store in in your computer.

Honest.

2004 ZX10R-few mods here and there......
and even made more Evil by Woolich.
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post #5 of 8 Old 06-26-2012, 06:14 PM
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With .07 or so milled off my head. A .018 hg p to v is .050 & .070 at 107/103


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post #6 of 8 Old 06-26-2012, 06:16 PM Thread Starter
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Wrj969,,,, yes i am!
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post #7 of 8 Old 06-27-2012, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgmagma10 View Post
With .07 or so milled off my head. A .018 hg p to v is .050 & .070 at 107/103


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Is that .007" inch or .070" inches or .07 mm? At .070" I would bet you had p to v problems. squish is determined by piston deck height and head gasket thickness.

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post #8 of 8 Old 06-27-2012, 07:36 AM
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Dammit 7 thousandths .0 somethin. lol So it'd be .007? Its to early to be thinkin
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Last edited by bgmagma10; 06-27-2012 at 08:00 AM.
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