Gen 4: 2011-2015 ABS Brake Line Replacement Problem. I'm Stuck - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 16 Old 06-12-2013, 03:12 AM Thread Starter
Track Day Rider
 
chrisv213's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: phoenix, az
Posts: 138
Posting Frequency
Images: 11
 
ABS Brake Line Replacement Problem. I'm Stuck

I hope someone can give me some insight into what my problem might be because I really do not want to have to trailer my bike to my mechanic's shop.
I have put new Speigler stainless brake lines on my 2012 and I think I followed the directions to a tee. I can not get any firmness in the front lever. When I bleed the system, I get clear fluid with no bubbles in the line coming out the bleeder valve, but the lever just has no resistance. I used a vacuum pump to siphon the fluid and I also used just the lever. I will squeeze the lever and the fluid moves through. If I keep the lever depressed, the fluid holds steady in the line for a second or two but then it starts to slowly creep back. That tells me I have a leak somewhere, but I have no fluid coming out anywhere, all my banjos and bleeders are tight and I never let the fluid drain all the way out of the reservoir when I was bleeding.
Does anyone have any experience with the gen 4 abs system or with replacing the lines? If I have a leak, should I see fluid coming out somewhere? How do I have solid fluid coming through the bleeder if I have a leak? Would I hear a leak?
I welcome and appreciate any and all assistance.
chrisv213 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 16 Old 06-12-2013, 04:19 AM
WSB Rider
 
Flipr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Melbourne,Australia
Posts: 825
Posting Frequency
Images: 3
  
Did you bleed your Master Cylinder?

If not,you may have an air lock in there.
Bleed your master and then both your calipers again,L/H then R/H.
Keep the reservoir lid screwed on tight whilst bleeding,and make sure you don't let your fluid run too low.

Area P slip-on & link pipe,De-catted Headers,PCV & Autotune,Ivans block off plates,K & N filter,X-Tre,Driven Superlite sprockets,+2 rear,stock front,520 conversion,V4 Speedohealer,Servo motor eliminator,Re-valved Ohlins damper,Spiegler front brake lines,Zero Gravity SR dark smoke screen,Stompgrip tank pads,ZX-6 rear cowl,and more to come.

Speed dosen't kill,it's the sudden stop!!!
Flipr is offline  
post #3 of 16 Old 06-12-2013, 04:30 AM Thread Starter
Track Day Rider
 
chrisv213's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: phoenix, az
Posts: 138
Posting Frequency
Images: 11
 
You mean use the breather nipple to introduce fluid instead of the reservoir tank?
(Sorry it took me so long to respond. It is 2 am here and I fell asleep.)
chrisv213 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 16 Old 06-12-2013, 04:49 AM
REPOST Enforcement Mod
 
SkyDork's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Wesley Chapel, FL
Posts: 13,532
Posting Frequency
           
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisv213 View Post
You mean use the breather nipple to introduce fluid instead of the reservoir tank?
(Sorry it took me so long to respond. It is 2 am here and I fell asleep.)
There is no nipple to "introduce fluid" to the system. The master cylinder has a bleed nipple on it just like the calipers. Fluid is added to the reservoir and the master cylinder is bled first. Then each of the calipers. Bleeding the MC is the same as bleeding the calipers except you must bleed it first or it will never be right.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App

I may not be perfect, but at least I don't ride a Suzuki.

Ridding the Internet of bad grammar, 1 post at a time.
#WordCrimes




SkyDork is offline  
post #5 of 16 Old 06-12-2013, 04:50 AM
WSB Rider
 
Flipr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Melbourne,Australia
Posts: 825
Posting Frequency
Images: 3
  
No.
There is a bleeder on your Master Cylinder.Bleed fluid through that the same way you bleed your calipers.
I think the bleeder nipple is in front of your throttle cables (sitting on bike) facing skyward.

Area P slip-on & link pipe,De-catted Headers,PCV & Autotune,Ivans block off plates,K & N filter,X-Tre,Driven Superlite sprockets,+2 rear,stock front,520 conversion,V4 Speedohealer,Servo motor eliminator,Re-valved Ohlins damper,Spiegler front brake lines,Zero Gravity SR dark smoke screen,Stompgrip tank pads,ZX-6 rear cowl,and more to come.

Speed dosen't kill,it's the sudden stop!!!
Flipr is offline  
post #6 of 16 Old 06-12-2013, 05:15 AM Thread Starter
Track Day Rider
 
chrisv213's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: phoenix, az
Posts: 138
Posting Frequency
Images: 11
 
I just tried it. I used a mighty vac and drew the fluid through the bleed nipple on the master. It drew fine into the master but as it come out through the caliper there were lots of air bubbles. Also if I tried to pump the lever with everything connected ( hoses on both bleed valves, full bottle on the master, empty on caliper) the fluid seemed to move the opposite direction. Also, I had the reservoir cap on tight the whole time, but the level seemed to drop some. Not all the way, though.
Doers it sound like I have a leak? One of the crimp sleeves on one of the lines seems like it might be a tiny bit looser than the other crimps, but Speigler is a pretty well built brand. I would be surprised if it was defective.
chrisv213 is offline  
post #7 of 16 Old 06-12-2013, 08:32 AM
REPOST Enforcement Mod
 
SkyDork's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Wesley Chapel, FL
Posts: 13,532
Posting Frequency
           
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisv213 View Post
I just tried it. I used a mighty vac and drew the fluid through the bleed nipple on the master. It drew fine into the master but as it come out through the caliper there were lots of air bubbles. Also if I tried to pump the lever with everything connected ( hoses on both bleed valves, full bottle on the master, empty on caliper) the fluid seemed to move the opposite direction. Also, I had the reservoir cap on tight the whole time, but the level seemed to drop some. Not all the way, though.
Doers it sound like I have a leak? One of the crimp sleeves on one of the lines seems like it might be a tiny bit looser than the other crimps, but Speigler is a pretty well built brand. I would be surprised if it was defective.
No, it doesn't sound at all like a leak. It sounds like you're not bleeding it properly and there's air stuck in the lines.

The mighty vac is great for getting a course bleed on the system, but you're going to have to hand bleed it to finish it off. Reservoir cap has nothing to do with it and you can leave that off. Just don't drain all the fluid out of the cup or it will suck air and you'll have to start over. I leave to cap off so I can refill it quickly while I'm bleeding. Start at the MC and bleed it by hand at this point. Pressure on the lever, crack the bleeder, lever goes to bar, close the bleeder, release lever, repeat. Once you get nothing but fluid out of this part, move to the righthand caliper and repeat this process. Then move the the left one. The ABS is going to be more of a pain since you have to get all of the air out of the control module as well. Try leaning the bike from side to side or bleed it on the sidestand to allow the air to find the highest point in the system and one of the bleeder screws. You may have to rebleed the MC a couple of times just to be sure all the air is out. Once you get it good, leave it alone for 24 hours and then rebleed it again one more for good measure. If you're getting fluid at this point, put the vacuum bleeder down and grab a rag and a wrench.

I may not be perfect, but at least I don't ride a Suzuki.

Ridding the Internet of bad grammar, 1 post at a time.
#WordCrimes




SkyDork is offline  
post #8 of 16 Old 06-12-2013, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
Track Day Rider
 
chrisv213's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: phoenix, az
Posts: 138
Posting Frequency
Images: 11
 
Thanks for your help. One question, though. When I am bleeding, should i be introducing fluid into the system through the reservoir or should I attach a hose to the bleeder valve on the master and suck it from a container? Where should I put the purge line? Can I just put one on the right caliper and leave it there for all three different bleeds ( master, right caliper, left caliper )?
Also, how long is a container of brake fluid good once it is opened? I am in Arizona, so there is not much moisture in the air. Thanks again for the help.
chrisv213 is offline  
post #9 of 16 Old 06-12-2013, 11:24 AM
REPOST Enforcement Mod
 
SkyDork's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Wesley Chapel, FL
Posts: 13,532
Posting Frequency
           
Garage
All fluid should be added only through the reservoir. You attach the purge hoses to the bleed nipples and bleed each one individually. No, you can't bleed the entire system off just one screw. The bleed screws sit at the highest point in each of the areas. In theory, the air will rise up to where the bleed screws are and you'll purge the air out when they are opened and fluid is forced out through them. Start at the top and work down. Just make sure you refill at the reservoir only before it gets too low and exposes the the hole at the bottom. As you bleed fluid out, the cup will get low so add more.

Brake fluid should be changed every 2 years.

I may not be perfect, but at least I don't ride a Suzuki.

Ridding the Internet of bad grammar, 1 post at a time.
#WordCrimes




SkyDork is offline  
post #10 of 16 Old 06-12-2013, 11:47 AM Thread Starter
Track Day Rider
 
chrisv213's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: phoenix, az
Posts: 138
Posting Frequency
Images: 11
 
I meant can I use the brake fluid I opened yesterday? Everyone says you can not use brake fluid that has been opened, to only use fluid from a new container, so how long is it good once it has been opened?
So, I will start with the purge line attached to the bleed valve on the master and pour fluid in through the reservoir. Should I only use the lever to pump fluid through the system, or can I use the hand pump? Since the air bubbles want to move up to the highest point, should I maybe start at the calipers and then move up to the master?
Also, does it help to have the container that I am using to catch the fluid coming out positioned above the bleed valve or doesn't it matter? Will moving the bike out into the sun and warming it up have any effect either way?
Can I just hire you to come here and do this for me??

Last edited by chrisv213; 06-12-2013 at 11:48 AM. Reason: typo
chrisv213 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Kawasaki ZX-10R.net forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Gen 4: ABS Front braided Brake line questions. Joel The ZX-10R 25 09-09-2015 04:53 PM
2012 ABS Brake line upgrade Lumiera The ZX-10R 29 01-06-2013 10:01 PM
Cant change brake line on ABS models rider4life The ZX-10R 26 04-13-2011 05:44 PM
rr brake line too long. problem? filthy phil Performance and Tech 14 07-28-2010 08:06 PM
Hotbodies ABS replacement bodywork lexusrx Pictures and Videos 12 01-27-2007 03:28 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome