2mm ?????? - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 32 Old 01-18-2010, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
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2mm ??????

2MM guy's how long did your 2MM last, what's some things to look out for doing a 2mm, if your bike is still going strong how many mile do you have on it?
stock rods, stock crank

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post #2 of 32 Old 01-18-2010, 08:46 PM
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I have about 7k miles or so on my 3mm and it runs like a champ. Knock on wood of course.... I didn't deck the head. I put a thinner head gasket to slightly raise the compression but nothing drastic.

Didn't you bore yours? If so what's going on??

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post #3 of 32 Old 01-18-2010, 09:43 PM
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I'm also interested in the 2-3mm's as far as reliability. Also if anyone has any input on stroked cranks

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post #4 of 32 Old 01-18-2010, 10:03 PM
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Personally I believe the 2 mil is a better choice for durability without loosing anything to the very slightly larger 3 mil bore. The 2 mil will have a little better cylinder rigidity preventing distortion caused loss of compression. The 2mil will also have a bit lighter piston reducing mechanical inertia losses, probably will run a little cooler too. Stroker crank street motors seem to wear themselves out quicker than their stock stroke counterparts. The different rod attack angle of the more outboard rod throws side loads the pistons a bit more, maybe not a big issue for a bike thats ridden a 1/4 mile at a time but for a street bike it could in theory mean shorter engine life. The crank pins, on a stroker are welded and re-ground to achieve the offset that gives you the longer stroke. Some of these re-weld, re-ground pins have been known to flake metal and cause trouble. A stroker motor also has to have piston clearences checked at bdc as the piston is pulled further down in the cylinder and could cause the piston skirt to hit the crank throws. If I remember correctly the head might have to be shimmed to avoid contact with the piston crown due to its higher tdc travel. You could build a nice cammed 2mil over motor that would give you great bang for your buck or go hog wild with big everything complete with "sick" power but you might have to freshen the top and bottom on a regular basis. Just my 2 cents

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post #5 of 32 Old 01-18-2010, 10:13 PM
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Perhaps a cammed 2mil with a hint of nitrous?

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post #6 of 32 Old 01-18-2010, 10:43 PM
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Personally I believe the 2 mil is a better choice for durability without loosing anything to the very slightly larger 3 mil bore. The 2 mil will have a little better cylinder rigidity preventing distortion caused loss of compression. The 2mil will also have a bit lighter piston reducing mechanical inertia losses, probably will run a little cooler too. Stroker crank street motors seem to wear themselves out quicker than their stock stroke counterparts. The different rod attack angle of the more outboard rod throws side loads the pistons a bit more, maybe not a big issue for a bike thats ridden a 1/4 mile at a time but for a street bike it could in theory mean shorter engine life. The crank pins, on a stroker are welded and re-ground to achieve the offset that gives you the longer stroke. Some of these re-weld, re-ground pins have been known to flake metal and cause trouble. A stroker motor also has to have piston clearences checked at bdc as the piston is pulled further down in the cylinder and could cause the piston skirt to hit the crank throws. If I remember correctly the head might have to be shimmed to avoid contact with the piston crown due to its higher tdc travel. You could build a nice cammed 2mil over motor that would give you great bang for your buck or go hog wild with big everything complete with "sick" power but you might have to freshen the top and bottom on a regular basis. Just my 2 cents
couldn't have said it better myself

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post #7 of 32 Old 01-18-2010, 10:46 PM
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A properly mapped, cammed, 2 mil over 10r motor would probably make 175rwhp. Add 36 hp nos and you got what....211? and the need of a longer swingarm
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post #8 of 32 Old 01-18-2010, 11:12 PM
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A properly mapped, cammed, 2 mil over 10r motor would probably make 175rwhp. Add 36 hp nos and you got what....211? and the need of a longer swingarm
Is that a gen1 only? I see dyno sheets of the gen3 with full systems between 170-175rwhp or are these bullshit. I'd like to know as I'm waiting on my ti akra.
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post #9 of 32 Old 01-18-2010, 11:21 PM
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it's all relative man. Try to get your bike on a dyno before and then after. The difference will be what you're looking for. Think about how many variables come into tuning each specific bike. These all impact the number that come out of the dyno. Then add in the variables for the dyno. My best friend owns and operates a dyno. Give me a little time with your bike and I can show you a dyno sheet of your bike making 200hp.

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post #10 of 32 Old 01-18-2010, 11:28 PM
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^^^I had mine tuned last month or so...at work or I would load my sheet. base walking in the door with a pc/secondaries/filter/stacks/full exhaust was 165. something...Left at 169. something...Gained like 7hp in one part of my power band...Felt great...

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