10R suspension ratio mod - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 12 Old 07-16-2005, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
 
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10R suspension ratio mod

I've just fitted a rear suspension linkage from an 04 ZX6RR to my ten I've done quite a lot of research after hearing a roumour that it was the mod to do to get the rear suspension working properly. Well I can confirm that it is a well worth while modification and has the added advantage of grease nipples so there is no excuse for not greasing it, any way onto the main course when i took the bike out for a shake down run after the work I actually felt the rear suspension working much better, it gave so much more feel and altho still very firm didn't pich me around like a rag doll on less than smooth surfaces, the new rear link also gave me the confidence to corner harder as I can now feel the road better,I have since taken out a small amount of compression damping and set my steering damper to one click from min (mind you only had it set to four before). I think the next mod will be a shock as I'd like a little less high speed comp damping on the road and maybe a softer spring. I'll find out how much differance the mod makes on monday eve at brands hatch as I'm booked for a trackeve there.
Another modification I carried out recently was to fit a fast action throttle the kit I bought has three different cam the smallest is close to std the largest is mental good for dragracing, but the middle one is in my opinion perfect and helps smoth out a little of the jerkiness when you want to feed the trottle in from closed hopefully a TRE and PC111 will clear up the rest.
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post #2 of 12 Old 07-16-2005, 02:25 PM
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Exactly which suspension pieces did you change?

Link to the throttle kit please.

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post #3 of 12 Old 07-16-2005, 02:30 PM
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Cool stuff. A diablo like how to pictorial would be great.
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post #4 of 12 Old 07-16-2005, 03:29 PM
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Look forward to hearing from you...............tech section.

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post #5 of 12 Old 07-16-2005, 04:21 PM Thread Starter
 
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the part changed was the lower suspension rocker, it's a cast aluminium linkage that blots to the frame at one end, shock the other and suspension tie bars inthe middle.
a when ordering be sure to order new bearings seals and grease nipples as they come seperatley,you won't need the rearmost seals or sleeve it will be explained later why. it's also probably best to get the new rollers pressed in by the shop.you will also need an 11mm spacer to space the top shock mount as the new link drops the ride height.
To carry out the work you'll need a stand that mounts on the frame to swing arm pivot otherwise when you take it apart the rear end will collapse.
I started off by removing the belly pan to give access to the link,seat,gas tank and the metal brace that runs across the top of the battery to give access to the top shock mount, I then removed the split pin and 22mm nut that holds the mount and dropped the mount out till the wheel was touching the floor. I them removed the exhaust can bolt and the lower mounting bolt (above the exhaust valve).
Moving underneath the bike I removed the tie bar bolt, lower shock mount blot and removed the front rocker arm nut but couln't remove the bolt as the exhaust fouls it so with a little help ie mate on the gear lever side O got him to push the bolt through while I pulled the exhust down enough to give clearance. Hey presto off comes the old rocker.
On the new rocker the seals and hardened sleeve on the eye that bolts to the frame and tie bars are the same as on the ten so no problem there just fit them in but on the eye that bolts to the lower shock mount the sleeve and seals from the 6rr rocker are longer and wont fit the fork on the shock all I did was to carefuly remove the seals and sleeve from the 10s rocker and fitted it to the new one job done no machining required. I then removed the 3mm washer from the top shock mount and slipped on the spacer and ran the 22mm nut onto the top shock mount.
Fitting the new rocker was quite straight forwards. first of all we attached the bolt that attaches the rocker to the frame,then the lower shock mount then the tie bars, checked all the bolts were tight,wound up the 22mm nut on the top shock mount replaced the split pin,greased up the new rocker replaced the body work and jobs a good un.It's also worth taping a tape measure to the rear indicator so you can check the ride height before and after the mod to make sure it stays the same while the bike is on the stand. hope this is of help I'm sorry I've no photos did't give it a thought but if it helps I'll photograth the parts label and post them if it helps. sorry it took so long to reply I was dropping my clipons
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post #6 of 12 Old 07-16-2005, 04:48 PM
 
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post #7 of 12 Old 07-17-2005, 08:55 AM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BenRyDn
I'll see what I can do then, mind you it's not rocket science you shouldn't really need pics.A little advice though if you don't know what your doing or can't understand simple instructions book it into a workshop and pay a tec it's safer. I'll try to take some snaps asap not sure how to post them though.
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post #8 of 12 Old 07-17-2005, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicozx10
I'll see what I can do then, mind you it's not rocket science you shouldn't really need pics.A little advice though if you don't know what your doing or can't understand simple instructions book it into a workshop and pay a tec it's safer. I'll try to take some snaps asap not sure how to post them though.
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post #9 of 12 Old 07-17-2005, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobster
I'm confused pictures please ps just editing photos will post in a bit
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post #10 of 12 Old 07-17-2005, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
 
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this has been a headache but I hope it helps
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