Bearings and Paint - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 14 Old 12-04-2009, 02:13 AM Thread Starter
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Bearings and Paint

I am hopefully about to throw my wheels in the shop for some powdercoating and since I have to remove the bearings, I was wondering if it would be beneficial at all to get new ones or any kind of aftermarket ones? There's some small talk around my place about them but I don't know what kind of difference it would make on something with this much power. I used to ride BMX and it definitely made a difference on those bikes... lol

Also, thinking about painting my bike after I do some body work (a buddy just laid my bike down in gravel, minor scratches and crack in tail...) What do you all think about a really dark gunmetal color with red rims!? and red accents, rear sets, levers, etc.

Thanks!
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post #2 of 14 Old 12-04-2009, 03:11 AM
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you should definitely put new bearings in. stockers are fine unless you want to spend crazy money on ceramics.

gunmetal and red sounds pretty cool.

MDCCLXXV
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post #3 of 14 Old 12-04-2009, 04:18 AM
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I would DEFINATELY replace the bearings. Here are a couple of "relatively" inexpensive alternatives to the stockers that are both lower resistance.

http://secure.cartsvr.net/catalogs/c...showprevnext=1

http://www.bearingworks.com/index.php
You can contact bearing works for specific application and pricing.

I love the gunmetal idea, I think that would compliment any other color you choose nicely. Good luck and post up some pics when your done.

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post #4 of 14 Old 12-04-2009, 08:17 AM
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I just purchased some low resistance bearings (6004vv) from bearing works and will see if i can notice the difference like alot of people have said about them. They were 85.00 for the whole set shipped to my door.

Marchesini Magnesiums,Nassert beet,kawi cam,.45 headgasket,DJ PC/Ig.M/QS,velocity stacks,bmc race,gipro,sato rearsets,helibars,throttlemeisters,pazzo shorties,speedohealer,520 renthal sprockets,penske 8393 double clicker,traxxion dynamic springs,scotts stabilizer,lsl frame sliders,cox radiator guard,powerbronze hugger,puig DB,solo seat cover,Valentine1,dual low beam projectors,55w.hids, brembo superbike rotors,Goodridge superbike lines,nissin calipers and rizoma mirrors,mda123 battery.
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post #5 of 14 Old 12-04-2009, 08:23 AM Thread Starter
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I just purchased some low resistance bearings (6004vv) from bearing works and will see if i can notice the difference like alot of people have said about them. They were 85.00 for the whole set shipped to my door.
Cool, just let me know. I probably won't work on the wheels for a few weeks anyways. What is the shipping time on those bad boys?
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post #6 of 14 Old 12-04-2009, 10:03 AM
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Cool, just let me know. I probably won't work on the wheels for a few weeks anyways. What is the shipping time on those bad boys?
If in stock which im sure they will be.... Probably looking at 4 days or so... No worries about the shipping time. Hell the powder coaters have had my rims for over 2 weeks now! Slow bastards.:headshake

Marchesini Magnesiums,Nassert beet,kawi cam,.45 headgasket,DJ PC/Ig.M/QS,velocity stacks,bmc race,gipro,sato rearsets,helibars,throttlemeisters,pazzo shorties,speedohealer,520 renthal sprockets,penske 8393 double clicker,traxxion dynamic springs,scotts stabilizer,lsl frame sliders,cox radiator guard,powerbronze hugger,puig DB,solo seat cover,Valentine1,dual low beam projectors,55w.hids, brembo superbike rotors,Goodridge superbike lines,nissin calipers and rizoma mirrors,mda123 battery.
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post #7 of 14 Old 12-04-2009, 11:13 AM
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Just so ya know ...

Those bearings are standardized precision deep-groove ball bearings (that's what the proper terminology is), and you can get them at any industrial supply place locally; just give them the 4-digit number from the side of the old bearing and state what type of seals you want. Code "VV" means non-contact rubber seals, code "ZZ" means shielded. Code "DD" means standard contact-type rubber seals, which have slightly more friction but give better resistance against water and dust.

The only diff between the stock bearings and the ones you can get at an industrial supply place is that in some cases the stock ones only have seals on one side. Having seals on both sides won't hurt a thing and the overall dimensions of the bearing are the same.

There are some tolerance-class options for this type of bearing, but as far as I can tell, as long as you don't get heavy preload (tightest fit, but will shorten life) or loose fit (= too sloppy) it will be fine.


Helibars, MRA screen, Ohlins damper, reversed shift pattern, sorted suspension, braided lines, Michelin Pilot Power, all else stock 'coz it's fast enough!
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post #8 of 14 Old 12-04-2009, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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Just so ya know ...

Those bearings are standardized precision deep-groove ball bearings (that's what the proper terminology is), and you can get them at any industrial supply place locally; just give them the 4-digit number from the side of the old bearing and state what type of seals you want. Code "VV" means non-contact rubber seals, code "ZZ" means shielded. Code "DD" means standard contact-type rubber seals, which have slightly more friction but give better resistance against water and dust.

The only diff between the stock bearings and the ones you can get at an industrial supply place is that in some cases the stock ones only have seals on one side. Having seals on both sides won't hurt a thing and the overall dimensions of the bearing are the same.

There are some tolerance-class options for this type of bearing, but as far as I can tell, as long as you don't get heavy preload (tightest fit, but will shorten life) or loose fit (= too sloppy) it will be fine.
So what exactly should I ask for and at what store? I got a quote for $15 a wheel from that site.
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post #9 of 14 Old 12-04-2009, 01:53 PM
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Look up "bearings" in your local yellow pages and find any industrial supply place.

Take the old bearings out and bring them with you to that place, and say you want bearings like these but "non-contact rubber seals". They should know what to do. If you want to phone them instead, have the bearing numbers (like "6004somethingorother") in front of you and tell them the same thing. Those four digits like "6004" or "6302" or whatever, and the type of seals, are all the bearing supply place needs. Those four digits uniquely identify the type and size of bearing. They are industry standard.

If you got a quote for $15 "a wheel" - not per bearing - that is really good, but the diff is that at the local bearing house, they'll probably have them in stock, so no waiting for mail order.


Helibars, MRA screen, Ohlins damper, reversed shift pattern, sorted suspension, braided lines, Michelin Pilot Power, all else stock 'coz it's fast enough!
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post #10 of 14 Old 12-04-2009, 06:44 PM
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Just in the interest of full disclosure:

"6xxx" indicates a deep groove ball bearing

The last 2 digits x 5 works for "xx04" and bigger, the exceptions are: xx03 = 17mm
xx02 = 15mm
xx01 = 12mm
xx00 = 10mm and this is the smallest in this series of bearings.

The 2nd digit indicates the cross section of the bearing, which dictates the outside diameter and width, but unfortunately aside from the general trend, there is no formula - you have to get out the bearing catalog.

So, a 6004 is a deep groove ball bearing, standard cross-section, 20mm nominal inside diameter. Suffixes after that indicate the type of seals and other options.


Helibars, MRA screen, Ohlins damper, reversed shift pattern, sorted suspension, braided lines, Michelin Pilot Power, all else stock 'coz it's fast enough!
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