Brakes - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 17 Old 09-27-2005, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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Brakes

On my 2002 Acura TL. Buddy sent me new pads from performance friction, free. So i already got the brake fluid, have brake cleaner, have all the tools etc. My question's are:

1. Anyone done a brake job on a 1999 and up Acura TL or CL, maybe even a newer V6 accrod, i am sure the brakes are the same

2. Took off the RF rim, noticed there is a large nut holding the rotor on and that part of the nut was "crushed" into the spindle?

3. Does this mean i need a new nut? If i take the nut off am i repacking anything.

4. It looks like this car recently had a brake job, rotors look pretty thick, slight pad wear, but the pads look pretty good, do you think i need to get the rotors turned?


Reason i am doing the brake job is that the pedal feels mushy, i got free pads, and don't mind doing my own work. I have worked on brakes for many mustangs and my bike so i am not new to this, just never did them on a "jap" car before. Any insight would be appreicated!!

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post #2 of 17 Old 09-27-2005, 06:12 PM
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Sounds to me like you are speaking of the CV shaft nut. I could be mistaken, but on my old (1988) Acura Integra, I didn't think you needed to take that bolt off to get the rotors.

Of course were talking of different cars. but on mine there were just two phillips screws you needed to remove with an impact driver.

But either way, if you remove that large nut on the CV shaft, you will not have to repack anything.

If you posted a pic I could walk you right through it f'sho! Probably...keep in mind Ive never taken the wheel off of a new model acura...but done plenty of work on older front wheel drive cars.




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post #3 of 17 Old 09-27-2005, 06:29 PM
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If theres no screws to take out then you would have to take the nut off. You don't need to repack anything unless you want to.


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post #4 of 17 Old 09-27-2005, 09:01 PM Thread Starter
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there were 2 phillips screws in the rotor also, didn't think that meant much. i am just making sure i got everything the first time since i can't put my car into a garage and pretty much can't leave it unfinished in the apt parking lot and won't have access to a vechicle to get parts that easy.

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Red 2003 Jack ROUSH Classic #8 of 50
- 375rwhp 381rwtq
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post #5 of 17 Old 09-27-2005, 09:03 PM
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also, not to be smart...

but they do have manuals for these things that you can pick up at auto zone...might save you alotta trouble.




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post #6 of 17 Old 09-27-2005, 09:17 PM Thread Starter
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ya i know they prob do, but i know it can't be that complicated, i have installed new braking systems before and such, just wanted to get any "insider" tips b/c sometimes its not always in what you read.

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Red 2003 Jack ROUSH Classic #8 of 50
- 375rwhp 381rwtq
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post #7 of 17 Old 09-27-2005, 09:22 PM
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yeah, I hear ya on that f'sho...its pretty simple...

its gotta be if I can do it!




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post #8 of 17 Old 09-27-2005, 09:38 PM
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First, i dont know anything about Acura brakes...

having said that.....are you sure that the nut is holding on the rotor?....most rotors come off independantly. most times...getting rotors turned costs around 10 dollars ....a couple reasons to turn them is, if they are slightly warped (youll feel this in the stearing when brakes applied)....also, grooves will wear out new pads faster...



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post #9 of 17 Old 09-27-2005, 11:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadAzzGuitarPlyr
First, i dont know anything about Acura brakes...

having said that.....are you sure that the nut is holding on the rotor?....most rotors come off independantly. most times...getting rotors turned costs around 10 dollars ....a couple reasons to turn them is, if they are slightly warped (youll feel this in the stearing when brakes applied)....also, grooves will wear out new pads faster...
Yeah, what he said....

And mushy feeling is likely the same thing it is when your ZX10 brakes feel mushy. Probably old brake fluid, which boils at a lower temperature, which causes air to accumulate in the brake lines. Pushing the pistons back to fit the new pads may produce a quicky brake bleed and could cure the problem. If the fluid is old, it should be replaced.

Don't confuse me with facts, my mind is already made up.
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post #10 of 17 Old 09-28-2005, 02:17 AM
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Guys - my 1st post, after lurking and looking for a while (I like what I see... ).

As a veteran mechanic, RickRoush, I'd say you're looking at the axle shaft retaining nut as noted above -- if you've experience with changing the 'Stang pads, you should have no trouble, the TL's pads are prolly easier, if all yer doin' is pad rplmt. (how many miles? pedal gotten spongier progressively? problems stopping/pulling/noises, etc?? given it a visual insp. yet - cond. of rotors, etc...?? car a daily driver/grocery-getter, driven hard, etc??).

A friend's a Honda 'Ricer' and frequents those boards, so installation pics should be easilly obtained. If you're just swappin' pads (not always recommended; see above), only one bolt per wheel must be removed; the caliper then 'swings' away, allowing pad inst.

But be advised, this car has ABS, and if you simply push the caliper piston back into its bore, the dirty fluid will be forced back into the (expensive) master cylinder causing possible damage/an ABS warning light at the least. Check this link for ABS precautions/procedures:
http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900F...0ABS%20Sensors

edit: just saw the 'Ricer' - here're pics:
(grrr...the pics wouldn't 'take' -- here's the page & replacement procedure):
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/184466/24

If you need further clarification, I'll be ck'ing back tomorrow. Good luck!
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