Gen 2: 2006-2007 Thinking about mods - Page 3 - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #21 of 25 Old 06-10-2019, 05:56 AM Thread Starter
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Just a final 'report' for the stumble/hesitation issue around 4500 rpm with O2 FI code appear/disappear (the latter happened when the problem present).

Since the bike already had the O2 FI code when I bought it last autumn, I didn't expected O2 to be the cause of the problem arised in late (warmer) spring. After a few hundred kilometers without problems I think the O2 eliminator is the solution to this, non-O2 models don't have this problem - I think.

Because I also suspected the TPS sensor ( the service manual is useless for fault finding by symptoms as it list almost every sensor for most of the similar issues ) I removed and checked it too which not only the manual, but I also not recommend. Setting the TPS (main) sensor idle voltage to 0,8 V instead of the "0,65 V or slightly more" in the manual (and/or the O2 eliminators) resulted in higher fuel consumption & sooty pipe end (instead of tan brownish) and even if I put back the KLEEN / PAIR valve, the exhaust rarely popped, so I'll try it soon with 0,53 V idle TPS adjustment if the theory is correct. Which is that higher TPS voltage could result in richer AFR, and lower = leaner. I've tried to find data on the web on this but this is the only that worth to mention it. There's a chance to have idle and low rpm issues with this setting, but if I can get away with 0,12 V less voltage - as I got away with 0,25 V higher, then it will run just fine. If it will be okay , next ride's mileage will tell. (I'm only concerned about cruising mileage; my wrist movement & riding style efficient & steady enough I simply cannot accept 6,5 liters/100km for the same ride on which my buddy's gixxer L3 needs only 4,5-5 liters - we rarely did 6k rpm or above)

(Funny that I can adjust the TPS without disconnecting anything on the bike & then put it together within 45 minutes, I surely didn't wanted to learn that... :) )
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post #22 of 25 Old 06-16-2019, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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fiddling with the TPS sensor idle voltage

Hello,

I don't want to open many threads, so I'll use this existing one.
The most informative page I have found is this.

As I suspected, the TPS sensor voltage is a modifier to the AFR: after having issues with the stock 0,65V adjustment I went to 0,8V which resulted lower fuel economy in commuting use @ almost 7 liters / 100 km. My last setting way 0,7V which resulted 5,25 liters / 100 km - but still had an on-off like characteristic with steady throttle or at light accel. It's like: when I start roll on the throttle, the ECU feels like substracting fuel first so the rpm stays at best or starts to drop, then suddenly the ECU senses that acceleration is needed and abruptly gives more fuel - then it will accepts throttle smootly. On the first few kilometers this only came at around 3500 rpm and above cruise rpm (acceleration was fine but felt a bit lean here & there) so I thought I let it be, but after a few hundred kils it came @ lower rpm too which make the in-town 6th cruise PITA). So for the next ride I will try 0,73V (idle) TPS voltage, maybe it will get both the spotless throttle response & the realistic fuel consumption too.

Of course I uphold the possibility that my sensor needs to be replaced, but it worked like it should @ 0,8V so first I play with the adjustment - I don't mind tinkering with the bike if it could get me somewhere.
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post #23 of 25 Old 06-17-2019, 11:45 PM Thread Starter
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Seems like 0,73 (~0.732) V TPS @ idle solved the on-off switch like cruise on a quick blast to my workplace in the morning, will see if it remains the same @ hotter, daytime temps. It also revs better at any rpm, so it should get more fuel because of that higher voltage.
(with 0,8V the exhaust tip / restrictor piece was sooty black, then before I set the TPS voltage lower I cleaned it and it stayed clean after ~400 kms, no black fingertip from it so it definitely makes some difference in AFR)
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post #24 of 25 Old 07-04-2019, 09:49 AM Thread Starter
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ECU swap question: EU to non-O2 & non-immo

Hello,

My question is that if I get an ECU which doesn't have immobilizer & O2 function (if there's any), then I can use my current keys, or I should get / need keys paired to the ECU?

(seems like my issues can be solved only with new O2 sensors, which 'of course' the M12 threaded small ones, so they rare, and cost quite much money even from the cheapest place in EU - it isn't possible with woolich flash to disable O2 in the ECU)
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post #25 of 25 Old 07-13-2019, 07:11 AM Thread Starter
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I have a spine/disc problem so lately I didn't spent much time with the bike (riding isn't recommended by the doc, nor that much fun with half numb leg and foot).
This just a report back:

As I said the O2 eliminators solved the stumbling and rpm limiting issue, but some lesser problem stayed in the transition between steady throttle and acceleration, which could be lessen or negated with adjusting the TPS (main) idle voltage much higher than the manual specified 0,65 V (0,76 wasn't enough 0,8V fine), but that way cost fuel mileage.

As just one O2 sensor went bad I thought that I will use the good one and even split it's signal so the ECU will 'think' that everything is normal - that's failed, maybe the wire didn't worked or the ECU can sense the heating circuits individually, so I decided to use the O2 sensor as #1 O2 and one O2 eliminator as #2, and reset TPS voltage to 0,65V. (and while I was there I checked and adjusted secondary TPS voltage too which was less than the specified 0,77V it was only around 0,56V. To be able to check I had to disconnect the actuator so I could rotate the secondaries between open & closed positions). Thats two variables, so I couldn't say that this or that was the cause.
The result that the transition is fine, no more surging; at steady throttle it doesn't feel like the ECU leans out the mixture - off the throttle it does feel like that, but giving throttle doesn't cause abruptness. Will see the mileage, it only can be better with less TPS voltage.

If anyone needs to access the TPS sensors for his/her own responsibility, the easiest way I found:
remove the 2 small screws (per side) from the top of the side fairings (beside the fuel tank), and the top screws both sides of the side fairings that hold them to the frame, so the fairing can pulled away just enough to use an allen key (long) to loosen the throttle body assembly clamp bolts - after the tank was opened up (I prefer to hang it), and the airbox removed.
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