Kawasaki ZX-10R Forum banner

Kit ECU resource thread

Gen 5: 2016-20 
50K views 162 replies 37 participants last post by  ZoliCanoli 
#1 · (Edited)
Figured I'd start a thread dedicated to sharing resources and findings associated to the Gen5 Kit ECU and harness. Let's keep this DEDICATED TO KIT ECU ONLY. I don't want this thread getting cluttered up with questions about how you can map the Kit ECU values to your woolich system. It doesn't work like that.

v1.0, v1.01, v1.03, v1.10 (expert program) : for 16-18 ZX10R kit ecu's
v2.0 : for 19-20 ZX10R kit ecu's
v3.0 : for 2021 ZX10R kit ecu's

For now I'll start it off with sharing the v1.00, v1.10 software, service manual and calibration manual pdf's:

16_ZX10R - Google Drive

2019-2020 v2.0 software and FI calibration manual: 20_ZX10R - Google Drive


Later on I'll be posting about my findings trying to make the cordona analog strain gauge sensor work with the Kit ECU:

 
See less See more
1
#6 ·
Thank you for providing this information. I'll make good use of it once I get my Kit ECU.
 
#7 ·
Cool tidbit, Gen5 KIT harness has two connectors, which can be used to connect to the kit ECU. One at the front and one at the tail. Both are also a source of switched power if you want to power a device. AiM Solo DL lap timer has an option of connecting to the kit harness (one of these two plugs) to log data--and at the same time, it gets power. Very clean. Gen4 kit harness only had one connector at the front and it didn't have power. So thanks Kawasaki!
 
#11 ·
So I was talking to Bryan Livengood at Livengood Motorsports today and apparently there’s a v1.3 software update that has been released.

What do we know about that this?
 
#12 ·
I have heard about an upcoming "update" back at the end of 2017. From the conversation, it seemed like it might be more than just software update but might even include a kit-ecu factory flash. This was entirely hear-say kind of information so I wouldn't be surprised that it is nothing more than Fi Software version update you've mentioned. Current version being 1.10, also referred to as "Advanced." Advanced is a bit of a misnomer since it's not so much about being able to do more advanced things but rather certain controls are better. Such as quick shifting and engine braking. The values are the same as older version (1.0) but what they mean at the ECU level is very different.

Very much looking forward to hearing what 1.3 is about and what else it might entail.
 
#13 ·
From what Bryan was explaining, the v1.3 update “fixed all the problems” with the older versions. I cannot comment on any of this because I’ve yet to invest in the kit ECU.

Trust me, once my R1 sells I will be getting the whole system and start out with the v1.1 to get a baseline, then move up.
 
#14 ·
Wonder what those "all problems" are. Glad to hear that Kawi is continuing to support the technology. Much like with 1.10, it will be a purchasable item. Version 1.0 came with the kit ecu, 1.10 was about $50-60 at the dealer. Just need to know the part number. What's good is that 1.10 comes with a document, which explains the differences in the new, advanced version. I'm sure 1.3 will have something of that sort as well. Can't wait :)
 
#15 ·
@Lanister: Did you find that updating to v1.1 gave better results with "wheelie-control"? I'm still running v1.0 and have never been able to find a setting that didn't allow it to occasionally 12-o'clock and try to flip without killing drive off corners.

Then again, maybe I'm just no good at finding the right settings, and v1.0 is fine.
 
#17 ·
I’m fairly certain it’s 1.3, when I mention the “latest update” and referencing the 1.1 and he immediately said a v1.3 was out.
 
#21 · (Edited)
It’s basically an ECU that’s unlocked from the factory. Plug and play stuff...you buy it and it’s a direct replacement with the “advanced” software on it and no restrictions. Yamaha has one like it called a Competition ECU for track use only.
 
#22 ·
Yamaha competition is a separate ECU that needs to be purchased. The HP Calibration kit works with the stock ECU that comes with the Bike. Just needs to be unlocked by the local dealer at a set price. Unlock codes are bought from BMW directly or the older models can have it flashed by Alpharacing for cheaper.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#27 ·
From Kawasaki its about $1850 for the ECU, harness, and adaptor cable. 1.0v software is included.
 
#26 ·
Hi All, I bought an ex ASBK with the race kit ecu in it amongst other stuff. Does anyone know where i can get a cable to access the kit ecu. i see some online but they look nothing like the cable and box the race team used when i`ve taken it back to get the tyre size changed. Kawasaki Australia tell me i have to purchase the entire kit again,
ecu and cable to just get a cable.
 
#33 ·
It depends on the mappings you are running. The race camshafts are to be used for extra engine RPM. I think that the stock camshafts lets you can raise the stock rpm with ~400 rpm, and with race more. There is a check in the ECU software that tells if you are running race or stock camshafts, but I do not know exactly what it does. Maybe someone can shed some light?
 
#35 ·
Is the cooling fan completly removed with the kit. If so do they also remove the thermostat? And are there any other parts installed for the thermostat or is it just removed in case they do?

Also what are expiriences without a cooling fan? Is it o kto do that for a trackday rookie? Am i too slow to do that or will the waiting times in the pit lane cause any problems?
 
#36 ·
Has anyone had an issue with the 1.1 software and the bike dying while idling? It idles a little weird and even with increasing the idle, it still dies. I never had an issue with the bike dying after revving it in the pit with the 1.0. Now I'm using the 1.1 software, I can't get it to stay on after revving it.
 
#37 ·
Yup, its the engine braking setting, apparently it's very agressive compared to previous versions. I believe if you set any parameter below 4 or 5 it'll kill the engine if you blip the throttle. I went back to the previous version software for the timebeing until i can get the engine braking dialed in again. I hear alot of people just run 10 (minimal braking) across the board.
 
#38 ·
That's exactly what I was just thinking after reading the software changes that come on the 1.1. It's the same thing with the fuel cut times and shift level. The 5 on the 1.0 software felt like there was no engine braking at all, but maybe that changed with the 1.1. I used to run the 1 setting but I'll try it in a higher setting until I get it dialed in.

What about the shift level that's defaulted to 2? I don't really hear the blip when I'm running the 1.1 software like I do with the 1.0. I'm thinking I should increase that level too.
 
#41 ·
That is why i asked if you are using a map or are you on default?
Another question is: can you describe as best as you can the weirdness of the idle? Is it when hot? Is it on cold? Always? Misfire?
Then we might find out what is going on. Maybe post a short video with the sound it makes.
 
#42 ·
I had the chance to test out the engine braking and that was the cause of the bike cutting off just from rolling off the throttle. I increased the engine braking map from 1 to 3 and problem solved. The engine braking map 3 felt like the old 1 to me. I didn't have to change the bike setup too much and it didnt feel like I was free rolling into the corner either.
 
Top