Gen 2 slipping out of 4th gear - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 04-26-2019, 04:13 AM Thread Starter
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Gen 2 slipping out of 4th gear

Hello folks, I'm pulling my fucking hair out.

I recently did an oil change using 10w 40 synthetic oil, and went for a 1000 mile trip around Wales. On the last day I noticed that 4th gear would abruptly slip out and back in immediately around 4 -5k rpm.

At the momment I'm wondering if it's my gearbox, my sprockets look good, chain is good aswell.

Even though, I've ordered new chain, sprockets, full clutch kit, manual CCT. I'm gonna change the lot out and do another oil change.

If all else fails I'll defo know it's my gear box and I don't fancy paying anyone to do it as I don't trust these " Mechanics ".

Anyone have any advice for engine removal or a way to check the gearbox without removal and splitting the block ?

Fully fuming. It's only got 10k miles on it aswell and I've not long had my valve spring retainers upgraded to gen 3 ones and my clearances done.
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post #2 of 9 Old 04-26-2019, 04:20 AM Thread Starter
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Oh forgot to mention, when I got to start her up, it sometimes won't start on the button, and it clicks, takes a few presses to get the starter to get going sometimes.
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post #3 of 9 Old 04-26-2019, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Huktonfoniks View Post
Hello folks, I'm pulling my fucking hair out.

I recently did an oil change using 10w 40 synthetic oil, and went for a 1000 mile trip around Wales. On the last day I noticed that 4th gear would abruptly slip out and back in immediately around 4 -5k rpm.

At the momment I'm wondering if it's my gearbox, my sprockets look good, chain is good aswell.

Even though, I've ordered new chain, sprockets, full clutch kit, manual CCT. I'm gonna change the lot out and do another oil change.

If all else fails I'll defo know it's my gear box and I don't fancy paying anyone to do it as I don't trust these " Mechanics ".

Anyone have any advice for engine removal or a way to check the gearbox without removal and splitting the block ?

Fully fuming. It's only got 10k miles on it aswell and I've not long had my valve spring retainers upgraded to gen 3 ones and my clearances done.
Wow slow down with throwing new parts at it Bad news is to get
at the transmission you gotta split the engine cases, and if you have to pay some one to do that its gonna hurt lots and lots. Are you using a shifter? is there noise when this happens? grating gears etc? is it harder to find and get into all the other gears up and down the box? do you find it harder to find neautral.it is just about possible to see most of the transmission with the sump off, you wont be able to measure anything with such restricted access but if your canny with mirrors and lights you should be able to see if there's any damage to the dogs. Dropping the sump can be done without stripping the radiator and exhaust if its after market exhaust ie no big collector box. But if there is damage to dogs or selector forks the engine gotta come out any way. Before you spend any money just try to give us a little more information.

Last edited by michael4012; 04-26-2019 at 06:25 AM.
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post #4 of 9 Old 04-26-2019, 07:51 AM Thread Starter
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Wow slow down with throwing new parts at it Bad news is to get
at the transmission you gotta split the engine cases, and if you have to pay some one to do that its gonna hurt lots and lots. Are you using a shifter? is there noise when this happens? grating gears etc? is it harder to find and get into all the other gears up and down the box? do you find it harder to find neautral.it is just about possible to see most of the transmission with the sump off, you wont be able to measure anything with such restricted access but if your canny with mirrors and lights you should be able to see if there's any damage to the dogs. Dropping the sump can be done without stripping the radiator and exhaust if its after market exhaust ie no big collector box. But if there is damage to dogs or selector forks the engine gotta come out any way. Before you spend any money just try to give us a little more information.
LoL i know, im considering sending it all back and just dumping the bike off at a dealer and getting an R1 lol.

No quickshifter but I have one that i was going to install with a PC3.

No noise, but it seems a bit more vibey when going balls out in 2nd and 3rd.

1st to 2nd gear i occasionally get a false neutral, but I dont know if its me over thinking and imagining it, but it seems to be going down in the gears too easy now. Just putting a bit of pressure on the box to drop a gear can make it drop without touching the clutch.

But that feeling in 4th is like a sudden loss of drive acompanied with a slight lock up then it feels like it lashes into gear, very very rapidly.

Ive just about had it with this bike. I was willing to drop the engine and get some help stripping it, but now it just all sounds too painful.

Convince me its worth doing or not
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post #5 of 9 Old 04-26-2019, 08:09 AM Thread Starter
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Splitting the engine, do you have to remove all the valves, pistons etc, or can they stay in the head ? Only thing id worry about is organisation and parts everywhere, taking all the valves out, piston and conrods etc.
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post #6 of 9 Old 04-26-2019, 10:04 AM
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Splitting the engine, do you have to remove all the valves, pistons etc, or can they stay in the head ? Only thing id worry about is organisation and parts everywhere, taking all the valves out, piston and conrods etc.
you can leave the head on so no you don't have to pull valves etc, you also don't need to split the rods and pistons they can stay in place the bottom half of the cases lifts away from those. With 10.000 mile they should be ok. But its still a lot of work to get there when the good riding weather is here now. Me id strip the whole engine even at 10.000 giving a complete refresh. But i understand you, i was sort of hoping you were going to reply with yes it has gotten harder to change gears up and down and finding neutral is harder, reason being the the shift rod on that model was prone to cracking and fucking around also the shift drum mechanism isn't the best. I hope some one else comes along with other suggestions as im struggling really. For me check the foot shift linkage isn't really worn or excessively lose giving lateral play, pull the clutch pack and inspect the shift drum mechanism, drop the sump to inspect the transmission and also pull the rod out at the same time and check its not cracked etc (sump has to be off to do that). Failing to find anything then i would split the engine as it'll only get worse and start to damage the engine when missing gears at high revs.
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post #7 of 9 Old 04-26-2019, 01:28 PM Thread Starter
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you can leave the head on so no you don't have to pull valves etc, you also don't need to split the rods and pistons they can stay in place the bottom half of the cases lifts away from those. With 10.000 mile they should be ok. But its still a lot of work to get there when the good riding weather is here now. Me id strip the whole engine even at 10.000 giving a complete refresh. But i understand you, i was sort of hoping you were going to reply with yes it has gotten harder to change gears up and down and finding neutral is harder, reason being the the shift rod on that model was prone to cracking and fucking around also the shift drum mechanism isn't the best. I hope some one else comes along with other suggestions as im struggling really. For me check the foot shift linkage isn't really worn or excessively lose giving lateral play, pull the clutch pack and inspect the shift drum mechanism, drop the sump to inspect the transmission and also pull the rod out at the same time and check its not cracked etc (sump has to be off to do that). Failing to find anything then i would split the engine as it'll only get worse and start to damage the engine when missing gears at high revs.

Cheers bro, im going to check everything before i do anything drastic.

Im not going to lie, i was giving it the absolute death around wales for 3 days.

Ive had way too many beers to do anything now, im going to get at it tomorrow, starting with the clutch change out ( got a SurFlex EBC clutch kit ), full inspection of sprockets ( got a Supersprox Stealth rear and a Original rubber coated front sprocket ), shift rod, then the sump is comming off. Also got an RK 525 ZXW XW-Ring chain to go on. I swear i hope its something so minor ill slap myself.
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post #8 of 9 Old 04-26-2019, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huktonfoniks View Post
Cheers bro, im going to check everything before i do anything drastic.

Im not going to lie, i was giving it the absolute death around wales for 3 days.

Ive had way too many beers to do anything now, im going to get at it tomorrow, starting with the clutch change out ( got a SurFlex EBC clutch kit ), full inspection of sprockets ( got a Supersprox Stealth rear and a Original rubber coated front sprocket ), shift rod, then the sump is comming off. Also got an RK 525 ZXW XW-Ring chain to go on. I swear i hope its something so minor ill slap myself.
me too.........here's hoping
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post #9 of 9 Old 04-28-2019, 03:28 PM Thread Starter
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me too.........here's hoping

Matey, I got to doin' some work on her today, chain and sprockets were fine, took old clutch or, was fine but still put new one in.

Put new rear sprocket on, checked cush drives, they were bang on too, cleaned gunk out of bearing on inside of cush drive, and found a couple bits of the bearing cage that capture the bearings had come out, and bearing seal had exploded. I hope to fuck this was the root of my problem !

I havnt filled her back up with oil or put wheel back on yet as I'm waiting on a new front sprocket and chain breaker to put the new chain on.

I reckon when I did a chain adjustment last weekend I over tightened the back wheel or summat, also the adjuster black on right hand side had been chewed on the surface that the adjuster pushes on, and the axle wasn't sitting on its flat edge against the block.

Hope to fuck it's this and not the box !.

I'll keep you posted as I put it back together mate. Thanks for the help.

Hukt
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