Gen 4: 2011-2015 Gearing Change - Complicated questions - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 79 Old 10-03-2013, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation Gearing Change - Complicated questions

YOu would think I should know this answer, but I only change the gearing on my Race ZX10Rs and do a typical -1f/+2r (2011 ZX10R is -2f/+2r).....

I never change my street bike but I see a few of my friends change the rear sprocket only to get an extra bump. They do not change the front sprocket because they do not want to lose top end. (My race bike tops out at 172mph with -1f/+2r).

I guess my question is what are the results if you only do a +2R ?
top end should be the same right?
Will the bike bog down on launches?
do you select different gears now for turns ? like are 3rd gear turns now 2nd gear turns?
Or do I have this backwards and it is more pepy and spools up faster and still have top end?
and not 3rd gear turns are 4th gear turns?


on my street/stock 2011 ZX10R I was debating on going from.
OEM 17f/39r
to
NEW 17f/41r

But again did not want to lose too much fuel economy and top end.

what you guys have for me?

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post #2 of 79 Old 10-03-2013, 02:47 PM
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+2 on the rear sprocket will make the bike much easier to ride.Top end will suffer slightly. You will never want to go back to stock gearing again.
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post #3 of 79 Old 10-03-2013, 02:49 PM
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Don't matter what sprocket you change. If you gear it for more low end them you will sacrifice a little on the top. I did a -1+1 on my 05 but heard just a -1 on the gen 4 makes a nice combo.

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post #4 of 79 Old 10-03-2013, 03:12 PM
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Don't matter what sprocket you change. If you gear it for more low end them you will sacrifice a little on the top. I did a -1+1 on my 05 but heard just a -1 on the gen 4 makes a nice combo.

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Changing either of the sprockets will affect your top end. Going up +2 in the rear is the same thing as going -1 on the front sprocket. Roughly. Since the rear sprocket has 2.4 times the amount of teeth on it than the front, you can figure out the ratio to apply. If you gear it for acceleration (front or rear), top speed will drop.

www.gearingcommender.com for all the different scenarios and combos.

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post #5 of 79 Old 10-03-2013, 03:27 PM
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I'm running -1 up front I love it. I haven't lost too much top end speed, and I definitely feel a noticeable difference in acceleration and ease of drivability taking off from stop lights and such. I did -1 up front because I just prefer to change the front sprocket instead of the rear.
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post #6 of 79 Old 10-03-2013, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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Changing either of the sprockets will affect your top end. Going up +2 in the rear is the same thing as going -1 on the front sprocket. Roughly. Since the rear sprocket has 2.4 times the amount of teeth on it than the front, you can figure out the ratio to apply. If you gear it for acceleration (front or rear), top speed will drop.

www.gearingcommender.com for all the different scenarios and combos.
For some reason I was thinking that changing the front effects the overall engine output more...

So If you wanted more top end then you go smaller on the rear and larger on the front... (not trying to do that...).

I have extra sprockets laying around...guess Ill try them out.

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post #7 of 79 Old 10-03-2013, 05:58 PM
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I went - 1 on the front and although it was very nice down low and midrange, it suffered up top a lot. I went back to stock. Been contemplating going down in the rear a tooth or two actually.
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post #8 of 79 Old 10-03-2013, 06:08 PM
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Gearingcommander.com. go there.

I.went -1f+2r on my gen 4 now my true top speed is 181mph with a +500 redline. It is way quicker off the line. Haven't lost much mpg. Maybe -.5-1 mpg on average.
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post #9 of 79 Old 10-03-2013, 06:47 PM
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I had a Gen1 and now own a Gen3. I ran and currently run the +2 rear option on both bikes.

I have found that you get the shorter 1st gear, but do not lose a ton of top end. The indicated speed on the speedometer is about +5mph faster than true speed. You get a quicker rev/spool through the gears. All gears will become slightly shorter and mid range will beef up (rev to mph ratio) so take that into consideration for turns.

Examples (for my 2009 ZX10 which is now +2 rear)

Stock gearing 3rd gear 8500rpm=95mph
+2 rear 3rd gear 8500rpm=90mph

Stock 3rd gear speeds: RPM 2450/27, 3700/40, 4900/54, 6100/68, 7300/81, 8600/95, 9800/109

+2 rear 3rd gear speeds: RPM 2450/26, 3700/39, 4900/52, 6100/65, 7300/78, 8600/91, 9800/103

What you can see is that with a +2 rear to maintain the mph you will have a slightly higher rpm rate which keeps you in that mid to high powerband that the ZX10s a known for.

Hope this helps.

Last edited by smalls23; 10-03-2013 at 06:52 PM.
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post #10 of 79 Old 10-03-2013, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Vonstallin View Post
For some reason I was thinking that changing the front effects the overall engine output more...

So If you wanted more top end then you go smaller on the rear and larger on the front... (not trying to do that...).

I have extra sprockets laying around...guess Ill try them out.
Yes, you are correct if you reverse the combination and increase the size of the front and/or decrease the rear size, you gain topspeed sacrificing acceleration. It's the same concept as a 10-speed bike. Power output from the engine is the same no matter what you choose. You're changing the mechanical advantage of that power output through the final drive gearing.

There are limits to this. The chain size and amount of axle adjustment make it so that you can't go really big on the rear or too small on the front without needing a new chain. Most people go -1/+1 or -1/+2 because it gives the same amount of regearing while using the same length chain. It's also cheaper to replace the front sprocket than the rear. Either will affect the acceleration/top speed. You get more dramatic changes just by doing the front sprocket because the size is more drastically affected by the teeth count.

Figure for ever tooth you go down on the front sprocket, your cruising RPM for all gears will be roughly 500rpm higher than stock. Add another 250rpm for every tooth you go up on the rear. So if you went -1/+2, cruising down the highway you'll be 1000rpm more at a given speed than before. You'll hit redline sooner, which lowers your top speed. But you'll gain a big mechanical advantage and be able to get there much quicker.


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