Copper flakes in oil pan - Page 6 - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #51 of 57 Old 02-24-2016, 06:55 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyDork View Post
I've had to go back and burp the oil filter.
Thanks for pointing it out.
How do you check that oil primed?
I can think of this method:
Inserting naked wire between block and oil fiter seal.
Turning filter lightly leaving leak at wire.
Cranking motor with fuel pump disconnected until oil leaks at filter.
Immediatley pull out wire, tighten fiter and crank little more.
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post #52 of 57 Old 02-24-2016, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carlos76 View Post
Thanks for pointing it out.
How do you check that oil primed?
I can think of this method:
Inserting naked wire between block and oil fiter seal.
Turning filter lightly leaving leak at wire.
Cranking motor with fuel pump disconnected until oil leaks at filter.
Immediatley pull out wire, tighten fiter and crank little more.
Well, that's similar to what I've done in the past, but not quite and more complicated than it needs to be. I'd be really worried that any object in between the seal and the motor would cut the o-ring.

What I've done is just tighten the oil filter until the o-ring makes contact. Fill the sump with oil. And then loosen the filter slightly until the oil starts to seep out a little bit and start the motor. Once the oil pressure comes up (which should be quick), tighten the filter quickly. And of course, prefill the oil filter as much as possible first thing. It's messy doing it this way, but the oil pressure always comes up right away.

I may not be perfect, but at least I don't ride a Suzuki.

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post #53 of 57 Old 02-24-2016, 08:54 AM
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I just fill the filter with oil, put it, of course it leaks some, before I tightened and start the bike.....
when I change oil not even without using this method I consider the light taking to long, my gixxer took forever and sold it with 50K of hard core, top end races all weekends.

Skydork so when you send the crank you have to send the rods??? they put the bearings and match it?
and you buy the smaller bearings (crank - crankcase)....

expensive stuff
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post #54 of 57 Old 02-24-2016, 09:28 AM
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Skydork so when you send the crank you have to send the rods??? they put the bearings and match it?
and you buy the smaller bearings (crank - crankcase)....

expensive stuff
No, you don't have to send in the rods. I chose to do that so it would be easier on me. I wanted them to check the rods for roundness/straightness and while they were there, I had them fit the new bearings for me matched to the repaired crank. It just made it easier in the long run not having to monkey around with it after getting the crank back.

Keep in mind, that the repaired crank may or may not still hold the tolerances on all the undamaged journals. You really only pay for the repair on the damaged journal. They don't blueprint the entire crank. So if one of the old journals is different than the case markings would indicate, you won't know that until it's measured. So, I just had them do that work for me.

And yes, it's expensive stuff.

I may not be perfect, but at least I don't ride a Suzuki.

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post #55 of 57 Old 02-24-2016, 09:58 AM
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It makes sense now the big bore cometic gaskets if been getting also have the smaller holes & interestingly restricted coolant ports around the inlet side of the jacket too.
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post #56 of 57 Old 02-24-2016, 12:38 PM
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Very interesting thread.
I have done a bunch of trackdays and several thousand miles of street riding all with Kawi filters and Mobil1 10w40. Before track days, it was 600, 1000 and then 4000, followed by 3000 religiously. My bike is just over 20k and I spent all of last summer at the track with it. I change oil/filter every other track day (I ride the top end of B group) and the oil comes out a "good" color. Hopefully I'm doing it right.
Another thing to add is I had APE my crank for my zx9r a few year back and while the repair was expensive (spun #3 rod) it was worth it.

Good luck to OP and hopefully you are taking notes.
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post #57 of 57 Old 05-11-2016, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
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I'm making some progress, have all parts together now and starting engine assembly.
As this is my first time doing it I could need tips to pay attention to when putting all together.

One important question: Should I put oil on OUTER surfaces of bearing shells (maybe they get better seated when torqued?) or leaving them dry?

Took risk buying a used crank form eBay and got goodone. Then I decided to lighten crank myself "g5 style", I removed dead material from 2. and 6. throw, see attached pictures.
Total mass removed was 0.7kg (from high radius area).

Here tips if somone wants to do it too:
*I used manual saw as much as possible, no heat, no bending to crank, less chance to damage journals accidentally. At the end crank bend stayed same (0.01mm).
*Using angle ginder: dont run crank hot, make pauses, toutch with hand to check temp.
*Think how to place crank in wice to not drop or deform it.
*I took material away only at those two throws, because this way crank internal balance statys same as from factory. Educate yourself what is internal, static and dynamic balance.
*Do one thow at a time from start to end. When first is done go to balancer shop to give it back rough balance, before starting with next. I did not, had perfect two vertical glass surfaces to roll the crank and give it pluss minus 2g (small magnet is useful).
*Dynamic balancing with mashine is a must, it is not a tractor crank! Since it spinns 14k revs, I did pay my balancer operator extra money saying "show me how many gramms is your machine is capable". At 0.15g (or ca. 10gmm units) numbers started to fluctuate (belt and wind influence). Normally shops do some 0.3g or 25gmm for race engine.
*Let them do balancing with generator disk and specially cam sprocket/crank sensor disk attached too. My generator disk was perfect, but other end (crank sensor disk or cam sprocket) was 30gmm off (1g at it's radius).
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