Gen 4: 2011-2015 C3L1CA's Street/Strip Wanna Be Build Thread - Page 3 - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #21 of 243 Old 09-23-2014, 12:47 PM Thread Starter
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Nice thread! Nice bike! Tasteful mods! Subbed!

Do you have your back brake caliper off?
Thanks man! I had it off for maybe a picture or two when I first put the swing arm on, but put one on to make sure I didn't have any problems passing tech. Never had one on my r1 and passed tech but it wasn't as fast

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It can be... although it will only make ~1/2 as much power as it would be without a specific tune. Just dumping it in you'll gain ~5WHP. With specific tuning, it will net you another ~3-5WHP.


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Nice passes man! Definitely getting there!
Thanks!! Trying to do a rider weight mod over the winter too. Got a little bit of gut, maybe 10lbs, that I could lose before I can justify spending money on light weight stuff
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post #22 of 243 Old 09-23-2014, 03:36 PM
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Thanks man! I had it off for maybe a picture or two when I first put the swing arm on, but put one on to make sure I didn't have any problems passing tech. Never had one on my r1 and passed tech but it wasn't as fast


Thanks!! Trying to do a rider weight mod over the winter too. Got a little bit of gut, maybe 10lbs, that I could lose before I can justify spending money on light weight stuff
Right on, was wondering because I just ditched my rear caliper and ordered a spacer that replaces the bracket and then you can delete the rotor as well.

You and me both, good luck man!

"Homewrecker" Gen3 custom build by ZX-SIK-R in progress.... check the build thread: https://www.zx-10r.net/forum/f28/airb...ad-140226.html
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post #23 of 243 Old 09-25-2014, 09:19 AM Thread Starter
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Went and put a bit of pump gas in it last night and put a tiny bit more slack in the lever and clutch didn't seem to be slipping at all after a few high gear pulls. Even tried rolling into wot from higher gears and no slipping till redline. So hopefully it's good to go as I plan on going to the track on Saturday.

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Right on, was wondering because I just ditched my rear caliper and ordered a spacer that replaces the bracket and then you can delete the rotor as well.

You and me both, good luck man!
Chicken and veggie diet along with going back to the gym started on Monday lol. Beer and burgers are so much better though lol

You get the DME one?

After thinking about it a bit I think I'd need to keep my caliper bracket/rotor. The gen4 uses the rotor for speed so don't know if theres a way around it. Seems like a good way to save a few lbs though!
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post #24 of 243 Old 09-25-2014, 09:50 AM
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You could probably modify the hangar to remove the caliper and keep the TC sensor. You only need the ring that's on top of the rotor not the rotor itself. You'd have to make up some spacers for the ring so it keeps the right spacing with the sensor.
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post #25 of 243 Old 09-25-2014, 10:13 AM
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Nice ride!!!
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post #26 of 243 Old 09-26-2014, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by ZX10RArcher View Post
It can be... although it will only make ~1/2 as much power as it would be without a specific tune. Just dumping it in you'll gain ~5WHP. With specific tuning, it will net you another ~3-5WHP.
Yeup! I did a dump in test today. Ended up gaining pretty much 5whp across the whole rpm range lol! Leaned the AFR almost half a point. Not bad at all.

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post #27 of 243 Old 09-28-2014, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
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You could probably modify the hangar to remove the caliper and keep the TC sensor. You only need the ring that's on top of the rotor not the rotor itself. You'd have to make up some spacers for the ring so it keeps the right spacing with the sensor.
I think that would work but I don't know if it'd be worth it. I kind of want to remove one of the front rotors/calipers as those are bigger and seem like it'd cut a bit more weight than removing the back. If I did that I'd want a rear brake as a back up just in case

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Nice ride!!!
Thank you!

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Yeup! I did a dump in test today. Ended up gaining pretty much 5whp across the whole rpm range lol! Leaned the AFR almost half a point. Not bad at all.
Damn, thats awesome!!
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post #28 of 243 Old 09-28-2014, 02:21 PM Thread Starter
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I think BOOSTED was right about my clutch slipping on that video against the busa.

Put mr12 in it on Friday night and took it around for some tuning via my auto tuner. One pull it seemed to slip in 4th but I freaked out and adjusted the clutch lever right away. Then couldn't replicate it and seemed to be ok. So I loaded it up on the trailer and went to the track on Saturday (9/27/14) to see what it could do with the race gas, lower profile front tire and less kill time in the air shifter. I had high hopes for at least better than my 9.2's i've been running.

Passes go from right to left as time goes on. First two are on the right and last two where the clutch seemed to slip but still made a halfway decent pass are the left


I know my 60' suck on all of them, especially the first two but I claim that was the first two passes of the day lol. 3rd pass was a really impressive wheelie from what my two buddies said that saw it halfway down the track and a few people that came up to talk to me after the pass lol. Then when I thought the launches felt decent, left two slips, the bike had worse et's and mph.

Guess my two questions:
Could my clutch slip enough to still let me run 9.22 @ 150 on mr12? Best before was 9.24 @ 149 with similar 60'. Trap speed didn't even increase a whole mph between 87 pump gas and mr12. It trapped high 149 and low 150, thought that difference could've been from lower kill time and different shifting points

What is a good clutch to go with? APE? KG? Cycle Concepts?

On the trailer going home with a toasted clutch. At least it was still the fastest thing out at the track that day

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post #29 of 243 Old 09-28-2014, 03:12 PM
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Lookin at the slips,mph dont look like your clutch is slipin maybe just got hot between runs are needs adjusted. Lil trick i do between runs is zip tie clutch lever to bar, unscrew oil filler cap and put key there so you no tighten cap up this will let air enter between plates while your waitin also run lil more slack in clutch cable when your at the track to prevent clutch failure.

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post #30 of 243 Old 09-28-2014, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
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I do the zip tie trick but didnt take off the oil cap. Should do that next time though as I always did that with my r1. Tried to let it cool down for at least 20min between runs too.

Last pass felt ok on the launch but 3rd seemed to go by really fast so as soon as I got out of it, the rpms dropped 2k, did the same in 4th so I just have up on that run and loaded it up. I got home and took it out to put regular pump gas in it I tried a 4th gear pull and it slipped real bad. Could still get it home but slipped in the high rpms at wot.
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