Gen 4: 2011-2015 C3L1CA's Street/Strip Wanna Be Build Thread - Page 25 - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #241 of 243 Old 05-07-2019, 04:32 PM
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A funny thing happened to me when I was moving my bike to its new home!I took it for a ride on the HWY to blast out some cobwebs and it started braking down as soon as it was over 9000rpm!I didn't turn the traction control to off and power mode to full as I did before as soon as I jumped on and started it and can't remember what settings it was on!hopefully this could be my problem and I just remembered I can check by simply seeing what setting it goes back too when the key is turned off and on!When I had the tank off recently I made sure the fuel line was in the correct position and hopefully it's not a crimped line!time will tell as this has never happened before but I have never forgot to change those settings!when your under the pump with things going on around you mistakes happen!the moral of this story is "take your time"
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post #242 of 243 Old 05-28-2019, 08:30 AM Thread Starter
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I finally mustered up some energy to look at the bike just a tiny bit. It's been sitting since I last rode it and never even pulled the logs.

Looking at the log from when I had issues it looks like it either hit the limiter or got close to it and then for some reason the bike shifted from 4th to 3rd. I could've sworn it felt like the rear tire started sliding after I hit the limiter but wasn't sure how or why that would've happened. Now it makes sense it probably was sliding around.



Wonder if being on the limiter like that would've maybe moved the cam gears. I was watching a video brock did about how he lock tight on his kickstand bolt and he hit with brake cleaner and then hit it with compressed air. When I put lock tight on the cam gear bolts I just used a pick to pick out any old lock tight and used a rag to get as much oil off the bolt and inside the cam gear as possible. Maybe I should've been a little more diligent on getting oil off but I did the same process last time and had no issues.


I also took off each side cover and was not able to spin the motor over by hand. Driving the same road the other day I rode it about 1 mile down the highway until the exit where it died and log looked ok. Then after it died and I coasted to a side road I did have a log for about 3 seconds where I started it but it sounded bad so I turned it back off. Looks like it stopped pretty close to TDC for 2/3. I'm going to try digging into it a bit tomorrow and see how far apart I can get it and see how bad the damage is. Oil looked clean through the sight glass and smelled pretty normal after taking off the side covers. Coolant still looked very blue in the overflow.



I was talking with a guy I rode with a few times who has a gen 4 who was looking for an engine and he said the only thing wrong with his is he thinks the timing guides are bad as he tried to manually put more tension on the stock tensioner and pushed it in too far. Said he ran it for 15 minutes then it's been parked since. He said he'd take $1k for it. Depending what I find with my motor I might see if I can talk him into me pulling his motor for him and maybe putting in a new one for him if he'd take less money. I'd only buy it if I could do a compression and leak down test on it to make sure he didn't screw anything else up.
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post #243 of 243 Old 05-28-2019, 05:33 PM
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If you get another Gen 4 motor I'd leave it alone internally. These motors are built well and don't need much to go fast as I'm sure you know.. Gen one, 2,3 could use motor work but Gen 4 doesn't really need it, or just pop a used Oem head on yours and you should be back in business

04 1000rr, 05 zx10 rocket...check out some of my work in my albums link.. https://www.zx-10r.net/forum/album.php?albumid=3114
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