Gen 4: 2011-2015 C3L1CA's Street/Strip Wanna Be Build Thread - Page 22 - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #211 of 243 Old 04-11-2019, 10:04 AM
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haha puttin' that girl on a diet! You may miss having 6 lbs over the front axle in the first 60' though.... it'll be cool to here your impressions. :)
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post #212 of 243 Old 04-11-2019, 02:12 PM
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Have you weighed the entire bike yet, my Gen 4 weighed in at 388lbs with fuel last weekend with full lights etc, I'd imagine you should be lighter

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post #213 of 243 Old 04-12-2019, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
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haha puttin' that girl on a diet! You may miss having 6 lbs over the front axle in the first 60' though.... it'll be cool to here your impressions. :)
I was hopeful that the extra few inches I'm extending it this year plus the ability to strap it more than last year now that I'll have a bit more clearance with the flat pan and sidewinder will make me not miss it too much. I did order the normal stainless brake lines incase it does suck I can put the other stainless line on and at least save a few ounces lol

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Have you weighed the entire bike yet, my Gen 4 weighed in at 388lbs with fuel last weekend with full lights etc, I'd imagine you should be lighter
Back in 2015 at the scales at a big NHRA track it came in at 395. Looking back at old pictures I took of weights, between removing rear brakes, 520 chains/aluminum sprockets and the other little stuff I documented I'd guess itd be in the 382ish range.

That doesn't include the track fairings that'll run tho which I think saved almost 5lbs by not putting the headlights back in and I also didn't put any of the rubber mats back above the motor when I put it back last time which I remember being pretty heavy. Might have saved a few ounces between removing all the power commander boxes/launch master and going straight woolich with less boxes/wiring. The new longer chain and swingarm will probably add a bit of weight tho.

I'm very curious to see what it weighs with the scale method I've seen you do. Once its all together I'll be sure to get a weight and post it up. I'd guess 380ish, maybe crack into the 170s if I can get a grudge tank setup I'll start saving my pennies for.
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post #214 of 243 Old 04-12-2019, 10:35 AM
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That thing is going to move the fuck out, of that I am certain. :)

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post #215 of 243 Old 04-12-2019, 01:58 PM
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Still lurking round here... love this thread dude! A lil jealous you got GAz headwork but super happy for ya. Had a popular local drag guy around Indy do mine or id send it to Jim in a sec! Bike becomes a monster with cam dialed in, port, valve job and slight head mill + gasket. Im not stretched yet and at 140#'s in gear - its hold on for dear life!

Been trying to soak up the cam timing talk n learn some stuff myself! Dying to weigh mine as well! Good work happening in this thread!

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post #216 of 243 Old 04-15-2019, 07:20 AM Thread Starter
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I just wanted to say thank you to Jim (gaz), he has been so helpful with everything that. I texted him Friday night and he ended up calling me and talking with me and giving me some super helpful tips to get my cams dialed in better. I think when I had my degree wheel on the stator side it wasn't centered or something. I had asked Jim if he thought my piston to valve clearances seemed right as they were really tight and thats when he called and told me to throw the degree wheel over to the timing side and gave me some pointers to get it spaced out better than I had before. When I had it on the stator side i think the degree wheel might have not been centered on the bolt or something as I would get the same amount on TDC on the degree wheel when turning the motor over to the piston stop on each side. But then I put it to TDC off the timing rotor and I was off by like 2* at TDC on the timing rotor.

Got it on the timing side and things wen't much smoother and was able to get the minimum piston to valve clearances stated in the race manual at 110 on the intake and 108 on the exhaust.



Walking into the house after going out to get some bbq with my little man he walked straight to the bike lift and picked up a t handle. Hopefully he likes spending time in the garage once it gets a little warmer. He goes, but dad theres no motor in there...


After finishing up getting the cams degree'd in I was able to get the engine covers back on and in the bike. When putting in the spark plugs, I even torqued them to spec since I had the torque wrench handy. Think that was the first time I've ever torqued spark plugs in my life

Then I was able to get the motor up in the bike Saturday night. It went pretty easy using the lift method I used to get it out. Wasn't too bad at all by myself with the flat pan to help keep it stable.



When I used to roll the bike on the lift before I had to use a few boards to get it up on the lift as the ramp isn't super long. When I pushed it back on the lift this time I had plenty of clearance with the oil pan and from what I've seen people say the oil pan hangs lower than the sidewinder so maybe I can get the bike in my trailer now to without extra ramps lol


I got some other misc little things done like some sensors plugged back in. Should get my exhaust back tonight so I can get that on then the radiator. Might send my injectors to a local guy to get cleaned quick as he's only 5 min away if he can knock them out quick. Might be running by the weekend but I don't think it'll be ready to race this weekend like I had hoped. I'm just too slow of a worker.


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That thing is going to move the fuck out, of that I am certain. :)
Lol hopefully it goes a bit quicker than last year, or at least stays the same. Nice to just tinker on something in the garage that doesn't make sawdust

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Still lurking round here... love this thread dude! A lil jealous you got GAz headwork but super happy for ya. Had a popular local drag guy around Indy do mine or id send it to Jim in a sec! Bike becomes a monster with cam dialed in, port, valve job and slight head mill + gasket. Im not stretched yet and at 140#'s in gear - its hold on for dear life!

Been trying to soak up the cam timing talk n learn some stuff myself! Dying to weigh mine as well! Good work happening in this thread!
Thank you. I wish I was your weight, thats gotta be a monster at that weight! Cam timing is something I think I only sightly understand, someday maybe I'll learn more, but for now, I'll set my stuff to what Jim says lol. Feel like any knowledge I used to have on some stuff has been replaced by kid books, I have more kids books/songs memorized than I ever thought I could lol.
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post #217 of 243 Old 04-15-2019, 07:51 AM
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Nice to see it all coming together, I think your idea about "might" send out your injectors to get cleaned should be 'will" send my injectors to get cleaned matched and balanced, even though you will miss this weekend's racing, you will benefit from the reassurance and extra % the time will give you, it would be a shame to have come this far and not taken care of the basics.
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post #218 of 243 Old 04-15-2019, 09:35 AM
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nice, very nice,

my mechanics teacher told me that type of wrenching is done close doors at night, no rush....
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post #219 of 243 Old 04-15-2019, 02:54 PM
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Nice to see it all coming together, I think your idea about "might" send out your injectors to get cleaned should be 'will" send my injectors to get cleaned matched and balanced, even though you will miss this weekend's racing, you will benefit from the reassurance and extra % the time will give you, it would be a shame to have come this far and not taken care of the basics.


After laying out a few G's on exhaust and head work, im not letting a $100 injector clean get in the way of things. If we're going for every little ounce - this is where its at. Lucky if you have a good local guy who wont just try to stick em in a cheap Harbor Freight ultrasonic parts cleaner.
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post #220 of 243 Old 04-15-2019, 03:12 PM
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There's more to it than just cleaning, you want them flow tested so you can fit them appropriately before dyno. If your using standard stacks, you fit the highest flow in 2&3 cylinders and lower flow 1&4 but for the top rail the higher flow in 1&4 and lower flow in 2&3. Then get your dyno man to tune 2&3 1&4 in there pairs and maintain the cylinder offset. That's a better cost effective way of getting more bang for your buck, the cost of individual cylinder tuning doesn't warrant typically 1% in the trim.
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