So I finally got around to installing this. Everything went well until I tried to get the front cowl to drop forward. AIM missed a few bolt removals in their video. So I'll show them here.
Bolting the GPS mount is a real MF, as no room to turn them. I probably should have switched to allen head, and I will if I ever remove them for anything. You do not have to install the GPS, if you wont't use it for track.
It's hard to capture how clear the display is with your phone, but I'm real happy with that. So many features to explore. You can turn the Quickshift and Autoblip on and off independently of each other.
Once the GPS sync'd up it immediately found my track at Summit Point.
I do wish they would have let you change the ODO to match your bikes current ODO, and maybe they will in the future. I know there will be software updates to this.
This thing is built like a tank. It's heavier than the stock unit. All metal frame, and I think real glass on the display, not plastic.
If you are talking about the shift LED's across the top, no, and one of the biggest complaints, and hopefully addressed in a future firmware update. This thing is only a couple of months old, and this isn't some small company, so I'm confident they will fix this.
My luck...messed with this so much, went to start it a while ago, and the battery was to low to start it. My bad :| Probably time for a new battery, but the dealer close to me wants $185 for a Yuasa like's in it, and the other battery shops around do not have a match.:frown2:
u get your battery handled? I run a liFe battery. love it. it's around 200 bucks but it weighs nothing and has more cca as well as wh then the stock battery. been looking at this dash and another, just trying to decide which to go with.
Antigravity Batteries have a direct replacement. I run these in my race bike and they're awesome. Half way through second year on a 4 cell--zero issues and going strong. For street bike, there's a direct form factor replacement available. They're great guys in SoCal and their prices are great. Check them out.
I would not be surprised if they just made a 2020 RR version only that has upgraded everything...and the base model stay the same, but with the 2019 RR engine and features. Then have a new 2021 ZX10R.
right, the weight when going lithium makes the thing seen like it's a Fisher Price you and not an actual functioning battery. I have just done the shorei or whatever cycle gear carries cause if it does fail I can take it back to one of any local stores and get a new one free same day.
I like the look of the Starlane but it is more expensive, requires a separate adapter harness, custom mount fabrication, and hasn't been recommended by anyone I have spoken with.
New firmware was release by AiM. Lots of updates that we all have been asking for. I’ll try to get it on the bike this weekend and see what’s up being used on my Kit ECU trackbike.
Just finished my 2nd race weekend yesterday and itching to swap my gen 4 for my gen 5. One of the other racers this weekend has the AIM dash on his 2019 ZX10RR.
His tech mentioned that they had issues with it dying at times and some items like QS not working.
I still plan on getting this as soon as the 2020 ZX10R is announced.
Eagerly want to know you reviews of the unit on the track.
Pros/Cons things you love/Hate and anything that allows adjustments via dash vs. laptop plug in.
The stock ECU uses the electronic throttle blades to control EBC. When the rider closes the throttle the ECU keeps the blades open a couple percent and slowly shuts them in a very precise way to keep the engine from backing down to hard. On the stock ECU, the OFF setting is all about noise and gas pollution control, however the LOW setting reduces this somewhat and is pretty OK for track use in general.
I had no issues with the stock LOW setting last year and wasn't concerned about changing it anytime soon. Once I got on the KIT ECU, I was able to feel a difference and have since learned to like the new maps my tuner uploaded for me. One last thing: the EBC settings are "in general" not the thing that you'll see a massive effect in reducing lap times. In my opinion, there is more to gain in acceleration phase of the corner than the deceleration. Think about it like this: if you can make a 10% improvement in either area, you will always gain speed in the acceleration rather than the braking. The highest average speed over a single lap equates to the lowest lap time, not the highest rate of deceleration.
Thanks for the explanations. Said another way, you spend more time during the lap accelerating than you do decelerating so having an advantage in acceleration is preferred.
No. The way ABS works (with the current technology) cannot react as well as a mildly skilled rider. The ABS pump literally holds back the pressure input from the pilot that should be going to the pads. Then (because the system is too slow) it PREEMPTIVELY reduces pressure to keep the wheel from locking. I’ve read reports of pro level riders reducing as much as 50m of braking zone (with a Gen5 and the ABS dongle installed) on long straights.
The first thing I did on my bike was remove the entire system. Dropped over 8lbs off the bike just in useless tubing, lines and pump.
I have been considering the Kit ECU and harness for the RR, but am still on the OEM ABS ECU and harness.
I run the EBC in LOW, which is fine, aside from the high idle, which makes pit lane an exercise in frequent clutching.
My opinion, the factory electronic damper is crap.
ABS
I have been riding with the ABS Dongle, and only rear ABS off. I haven't noticed any rider intervention from the ABS at a fast track day pace.
I can still easily carry the rear wheel throughout the braking zone. I have not noticed an abrupt intervention like on the BMW.
EBC.
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