Gen 4: 2011-2015 11 ZX10r Issues Driving me Mad - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 49 Old 12-07-2018, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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Question 11 ZX10r Issues Driving me Mad

So been Having issues with my Zx, Has full Muzzy Exhaust, Stock Filter, and a PC5 w/Autotune on it and I cannot figure out what is wrong with this Bike! Bought the Bike in November and it had Less then 500 miles on it. I have put about 500 more miles on it and now the issues seem to be getting worse
Starts up fine, warms up and the idle little jumpy but I read thats common.
Once I get on the highway and stuck it traffic the bike will tend to stumble sometimes at low speeds below 4000rpms. Once coming home at night the bike started to pop at low speeds in traffic and shut off a few times, but then later on rolling in 5th at just crusing speeds I could hear some pops coming from the exhaust?? All the mods done were done by the previous owner. What I can tell so far is
Full exhaust,
SAS was blocked off( rehooked back up, didnt help any)
Lithuim Battery ( Checked charge and its good, checked stator output and its good)
PC5 & Autotune...Hooked up correctly with no errors, wo2 hose doesnt look crimped.

Its idle AFR stays at 14.85, I have used autotune to change AFR to 13.2 then 13.6 but it just starts to pop real bad, since it happens at low speed I tried to adjust the afrs in the lower rpm fields but to no avail. Didnt even make it out of the garage but seems it wouldnt have mattered.
Airbox looks good and sealed, No error codes on the Self Dia system.....Im lost. It had a Map that notes say "Full Muzzy Exhaust, Stock Filter", changed it over to a PC5 download map thats for a Hindle Full Exhaust with stock filter, but looking at them they look the same


Any ideas? Any help
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post #2 of 49 Old 12-10-2018, 08:56 AM
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I would ditch the pc5 and run the stock ecu to eliminate a potential tuning error. Also since you will be in there you can double check the airbox fitment at the throttle bodies, if not loosened enough they can be a pain to get back on correctly. Im sure you already know this but you will hear tons of popping on engine decel if bock off plates are not installed.
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post #3 of 49 Old 12-10-2018, 09:18 AM
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Some older pcv firmware can cause cylinder cut out on the Gen 4, I'd update to newest Version and see

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post #4 of 49 Old 12-10-2018, 11:09 AM
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Change plugs and start the troubleshooting over

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post #5 of 49 Old 12-10-2018, 12:05 PM
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Dump the PC5 and autotune crap. Get your ECU flashed and never look back.
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post #6 of 49 Old 12-10-2018, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShawnG View Post
I would ditch the pc5 and run the stock ecu to eliminate a potential tuning error. Also since you will be in there you can double check the airbox fitment at the throttle bodies, if not loosened enough they can be a pain to get back on correctly. Im sure you already know this but you will hear tons of popping on engine decel if bock off plates are not installed.
So it will big no big deal to unhook the PC5? It will just run rich right?


Quote:
Some older pcv firmware can cause cylinder cut out on the Gen 4, I'd update to newest Version and see
Just did that Friday, it was raining so I didn't get to Test drive it to see if It got any better. Plus seems like it does it more often when its Cold outside, I know riding to work its been around 32-40 out and the ride home when it starts to giving me trouble its about 40-45 degrees out. Wonder if that's having an affect.


Quote:
Change plugs and start the troubleshooting over
I was thinking that too, maybe the previous owner rode it until the plugs fouled? Seems to run great above 4k, like a raped ape really lol, damn traffic doesn't let me keep it there unless I wanna be a squid.


Quote:
Dump the PC5 and autotune crap. Get your ECU flashed and never look back
Might try this after all other suggestion's fail:( Took my months to save up for this bike, plus selling my house to pay off bills to this bike, kinda kick in tha balls with all these problems cause this is the bike I wanted before I bought the 1198 I had.
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post #7 of 49 Old 12-10-2018, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
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Can I just do a Zero Map to test if its the PC5? or does it need to be unplugged or completely unhooked?
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post #8 of 49 Old 12-10-2018, 02:38 PM
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Can I just do a Zero Map to test if its the PC5? or does it need to be unplugged or completely unhooked?
Unplugged, it is a firmware issue in how the pcv interprets the firing signal. Also, there is a way to tell the firmware level. If it is past the level for trouble, then just zero the map.

Seriously change plugs first and then move on.

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post #9 of 49 Old 12-10-2018, 06:33 PM
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Pcv is still a very good tuning method along with a de restricted flash
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post #10 of 49 Old 12-11-2018, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by 97grnrs View Post
Pcv is still a very good tuning method along with a de restricted flash
It can be but adds to the possibility of things to go wrong. Unless you have a dyno to confirm the results 9 out of 10 times people just run really rich for no reason. If i was in your shoes i would ditch the pc5 completely (unplug it from all the injectors and coils) A basic mail in ecu woolich tune will be fine if you dont got money to spend for an actual dyno tune (woolich tuner).

That way you will know 100% the ecu flash is good, no piggy back controller to mess with your tune, and later on you can add Q/S, Launch control, And if you ever want more tunes like race fuel map you can add it reliably with peace of mind that its running how it should.
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