So I'll give you a few levels to try:
1.) Don't want to spend money or time:
a.) Set Rebound on the rear shock to 1 click (or 1/2 turn...I foget it the stocker clicked or not) out from full in.
b.) Set the rear shock Compression dampening 3-5 clicks from full in
c.) Tighten down the rear pre-load several turns
2.) Don't want to spend money but have time:
a.) Do everything in option 1
b.) Insert a couple of thick washers between the frame and clevis on the upper shock mount in the rear. (Do a forum search for "shim shock", this has had several discussions over the years. It helps a LOT!)
c.) Set sag and rebound via bouncing the bike. Here is a great video how to: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mK3flKxf41U
3.) Have a little bit of money to add:
a.) Remove your shock and send it to a company like Race-Tech for a re-spring and re-valve
4.) Have a decent amount of money to add:
a.) Buy an Ohlins, JRI, etc. shock from a suspension tuner who will set it up for you. I recommend Thermosman, who works with lot's of professional and amateur race teams - http://www.thermosman.com/
5.) Have a lot of money:
a.) Buy a fork cart kit
6.) Still have some money?
a.) Buy a new suspension link: Attack, Lee-Cycle, Dan Kyle, etc.
1.) Give a suspension tuner money to do any of the above for you rather than trying yourself.
I didn't say much of anything about the forks. The forks are very stiff from the factory for springs and the dampening is pretty darned good to, and might be OK enough for your weight for street use. Setting sag is important still if you can spend the time to do it, but I wouldn't worry about the front end too much.
AS FOR WHICH CLICKERS DO WHAT ON THE BIKE:
It's all in the owner's manual on which knob is which. You're looking for Preload, Rebound Dampening, and Compression Dampening. I think the stock forks are even labeled on the bike on which is which. If you don't have one, Google for a PDF of it, should be very easy to find.