noob q for you ohlins guys - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 38 Old 06-18-2012, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
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noob q for you ohlins guys

was bored today at work and skeeming thru the web I was looking into aftermarket rear shocks for my gen 4. now my question is.... what is the difference between the KA931 and the KA036?


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post #2 of 38 Old 06-18-2012, 10:36 PM
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call ohlins and ask..im sure they have an 800 #..Before you spend the $ look around here..I saw that the gen 4 gas chambers leak and are fixable with revalveing and so on for less than a ohlins..

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post #3 of 38 Old 06-18-2012, 10:44 PM
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going out on a limb to say one has a fixed preload adjuster and the other is remote. Go with the remote.

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post #4 of 38 Old 06-18-2012, 10:48 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by craig_sez View Post
call ohlins and ask..im sure they have an 800 #..Before you spend the $ look around here..I saw that the gen 4 gas chambers leak and are fixable with revalveing and so on for less than a ohlins..
i talked to some 1 at a local shop (piper performance) that does racetech stuff, and had been considering doing the shims, revalving, respring route or what ever they reccomended... the problem with that is im about 230 pounds. racetech spring calculator recommends 12.216kg/mm and i think the highest they show on there site is (RT SK SPR 58.2x178 11.6kg-114N)

looking at k-tech a while back i think they have heavier springs.... i dont remember


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post #5 of 38 Old 06-18-2012, 10:49 PM Thread Starter
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going out on a limb to say one has a fixed preload adjuster and the other is remote. Go with the remote.
thats kind of what i was thinking as well. thanks im look into a couple alternatives for the rear and when it comes time ill call ohlins line and confirm before i do spend any $$$


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post #6 of 38 Old 06-18-2012, 10:52 PM
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I tried looking for a difference in the ohlins manuals but I came up with nothing. The are listed as the same shock type exact same part number.

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post #7 of 38 Old 06-18-2012, 11:01 PM
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The remote is a waste of $ unless you want the bling or do alot of different tracks where your resetting preload

The spring rate calculator is a good guide line but not always gonna be a 100% correct...Your body type makes a diff to..For example some guys that weigh as much as i do needed their fork springs upped a smidge cause they have a longer upper torso,me i have a more stumpy type body so more of my weight sits on the rear and my fork springs were fine..Same goes for rear..Then tires will make a lil diff in combo with shock set up along with temps where and how you ride ect..
Best bet is to actually call and talk to a suspension man rather than buy based on a online calculator..This book came highly recommended to me by elka but i never remember to get it cause i have a inhouse racer who helps me understand some of this stuff..



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post #8 of 38 Old 06-18-2012, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by craig_sez View Post
The remote is a waste of $ unless you want the bling or do alot of different tracks where your resetting preload

The spring rate calculator is a good guide line but not always gonna be a 100% correct...Your body type makes a diff to..For example some guys that weigh as much as i do needed their fork springs upped a smidge cause they have a longer upper torso,me i have a more stumpy type body so more of my weight sits on the rear and my fork springs were fine..Same goes for rear..Then tires will make a lil diff in combo with shock set up along with temps where and how you ride ect..
Best bet is to actually call and talk to a suspension man rather than buy based on a online calculator..This book came highly recommended to me by elka but i never remember to get it cause i have a inhouse racer who helps me understand some of this stuff.. Amazon.com: Sportbike Suspension Tuning (9781893618459): Andrew Trevitt: Books
I guess im just gonna end up going up to cliff piper. i believe he is a good suspension man from what ive heard in my area and he is an official racetech service center. might end up just revalve/respring the stocker. see what he has to say will let ya know


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post #9 of 38 Old 06-18-2012, 11:08 PM
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I have alway read and been told buying a new shock is far more cost effective based on the increased performance than re working the stock shock.

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post #10 of 38 Old 06-18-2012, 11:11 PM
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Craig-sez is absolutely right about race tech. I went with their online specs when rebuilding mine, I even spoke to someone there for advice on stacking the shims and I wound up with pretty stiff forks for my liking. They're much better but need. Some work. Also I'm 260 lbs now and the spring I got from them are too stiff, unknown they carry stuff for your weight. Honestly, I have an ohlins rear shock and race tech internals(gold valve rebound and compression and new springs and I feel like I have more adjustment with the forks, racetech does a great job for what it costs!

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