Gen4 Suspension Suggestions / Racebike - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 07-03-2013, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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Gen4 Suspension Suggestions / Racebike

To those who ride track and race....prefer racer opinions. Please take no offense to the request but it's my preference.

I'm coming from a fully setup 07r1 that had AK20s up front with a penske triple clicker on the rear. Bike was nice but I'm moving on. This will be my racebike from now on.

What setup are you running and what is your advice if you had to do it all over again? Just picked up a 2011 Zx-10 that is bone stock, right off the showroom floor. I've heard that the penske didn't work well on this bike but that the Ohlins is the best bet on the rear. Thoughts?
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post #2 of 8 Old 07-03-2013, 05:24 PM
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Suspension

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Originally Posted by Zr1 View Post
To those who ride track and race....prefer racer opinions. Please take no offense to the request but it's my preference.

I'm coming from a fully setup 07r1 that had AK20s up front with a penske triple clicker on the rear. Bike was nice but I'm moving on. This will be my racebike from now on.

What setup are you running and what is your advice if you had to do it all over again? Just picked up a 2011 Zx-10 that is bone stock, right off the showroom floor. I've heard that the penske didn't work well on this bike but that the Ohlins is the best bet on the rear. Thoughts?
The bike needs an 8mm rear ride height adjustment to make it finish corners. It want to run wide or understeer what ever you want to call it on corner exits. You can put an 8mm stack of washers under the clevis or buy a Penske or Ohlins shock that you can adjust to the 8mm additional ride height needed. Some riders are pulling the forks up a bit in the triple clamps to make the bike steer quicker. Thats a rider preference mine seems to steer very quickly and finish corners better with just the 8mm rear adjustment. The forks are good a bit stiff but work well. If you don't change the rear shock out the oem shock needs heavier oil to help with rebound.
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post #3 of 8 Old 07-03-2013, 05:30 PM
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I use to race CCS.
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post #4 of 8 Old 07-06-2013, 01:51 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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The bike needs an 8mm rear ride height adjustment to make it finish corners. It want to run wide or understeer what ever you want to call it on corner exits. You can put an 8mm stack of washers under the clevis or buy a Penske or Ohlins shock that you can adjust to the 8mm additional ride height needed. Some riders are pulling the forks up a bit in the triple clamps to make the bike steer quicker. Thats a rider preference mine seems to steer very quickly and finish corners better with just the 8mm rear adjustment. The forks are good a bit stiff but work well. If you don't change the rear shock out the oem shock needs heavier oil to help with rebound.
Seems like it would change the geometry raising the forks to be parallel with the triple. Should adjust the rake and trail, from what I remember, raising the forks slows down steering and makes the bike more stable. If you're raising the rear too, then it should level it out. Guess these bikes squat too much from the factory.

What do you weigh? And are you running OEM shock or did you upgrade?

My major deal is getting that rear end to hook up out of corners, that's where you can make up a lot of time on people.

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I use to race CCS.
Sweet, series isn't around anymore. Pretty sure they held races at MSRH too?

Thanks for the input.
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post #5 of 8 Old 07-08-2013, 05:43 PM
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CCS still up here in the Midwest.

As a matter of fact, the track record at Road America for CCS was just broken this weekend by a 2011 zx10 running a Penske out back.

The overall track record for Blackhawk farms is also held by the same bike.

"The ZX-10R is capable of being perfectly docile and tractable, but few men are capable of resisting its ever-present voice urging them to just twist it and see what happens."
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post #6 of 8 Old 07-08-2013, 06:01 PM
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Suspension

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Seems like it would change the geometry raising the forks to be parallel with the triple. Should adjust the rake and trail, from what I remember, raising the forks slows down steering and makes the bike more stable. If you're raising the rear too, then it should level it out. Guess these bikes squat too much from the factory.

What do you weigh? And are you running OEM shock or did you upgrade?

My major deal is getting that rear end to hook up out of corners, that's where you can make up a lot of time on people.



Sweet, series isn't around anymore. Pretty sure they held races at MSRH too?

Thanks for the input.
Actually it should make the bike turn in quicker. Pulling the forks up reduces ground clearance something you might want at severe lean angle's. I track day mostly these days and really don't need the extra agility a racer might want. The swingarm angle is to flat makes the bike understeer on corner exit. The 8mm helps control the understeer better. I will leave the forks alone for now. I had access to Dave Moss at the last track day. It was the bikes first time on track so Dave did the basic suspension setup for me. When I complained to him about the bike wanting to run wide on corner exit he informed me it need the 8mm to cure the problem.

I go about 240lbs in gear.



Yes CCS became another casuality of the economy.
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post #7 of 8 Old 07-11-2013, 08:03 AM Thread Starter
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I thought raising the forks would raise the ride height, I was thinking backwards! Lol

Rode this beast at the track and unfortunately we were without a suspension tuner at the track. I was fighting it to get set in the turn and I was running wide, as suspected. The bike is a solid platform for sure. Will need some race parts but that's expected. Thanks again for the input!
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post #8 of 8 Old 07-11-2013, 08:29 AM
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The ohlins ttx comes set at +6mm over OEM shock length. I'm currently running mine +10mm. Forks are at factory height in the tree.


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