Gen1 Need help with rebound damping adjuster. - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 03-09-2014, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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Gen1 Need help with rebound damping adjuster.

So I'm getting into the adjustments on my suspension. I got out the service manual to set up a baseline for me. First thing I started with was the rebound damping force. According to the manual I should have "11" settings or "clicks".

I can only get "7" clicks at the most on either side. That's turning the adjuster all the way clock wise, then counting I turned it counter clock wise. I'm trying to get to 9 because that's what the service manual recommends. Not sure why I can't go any further. I was even rolling the bike back and forth applying the brake to get the suspension to move thinking maybe it was just binding up. Didn't really affect anything.

I ended up setting both sides on the "5th click"


Is something up with my front forks or do you guys have the same thing?
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post #2 of 9 Old 03-09-2014, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by horsePOOGAS View Post
So I'm getting into the adjustments on my suspension. I got out the service manual to set up a baseline for me. First thing I started with was the rebound damping force. According to the manual I should have "11" settings or "clicks".



I can only get "7" clicks at the most on either side. That's turning the adjuster all the way clock wise, then counting I turned it counter clock wise. I'm trying to get to 9 because that's what the service manual recommends. Not sure why I can't go any further. I was even rolling the bike back and forth applying the brake to get the suspension to move thinking maybe it was just binding up. Didn't really affect anything.



I ended up setting both sides on the "5th click"





Is something up with my front forks or do you guys have the same thing?

Is your bike used? If so, the forks have likely been serviced at some point and whoever did it didn't set the depth of the the adjuster screw properly when putting the cap back on it. The fork caps should be removed and the depth set properly to get the full range of adjustment on both.


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post #3 of 9 Old 03-09-2014, 08:44 PM Thread Starter
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Yes the previous owner did re seal the forks.

How hard/complicated is it to take the fork caps off and set everything?
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post #4 of 9 Old 03-10-2014, 07:17 AM
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The procedure to set them isn't that difficult, provided you have the right tools. First thing you need is ahead-lift stand for the front. Put the front end in the air (not using the forks) then remove the caps. If all you're doing is removing the caps, it can be done without removing the forks from the bike.

Here's where you need a special tool though. You need to pull up on the fork cap and use a damping rod holder under the locknut to remove the cap. Once you get the cap off the damping rod, just set the depth using a set of digital calipers according to the manual. Then reassemble the fork caps in the reverse order and you'll be good.

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post #5 of 9 Old 03-11-2014, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
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Looks like I've found my next project. I'm without tools so looks like i'll be riding as is for a little while at least.


Thanks skydork.
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post #6 of 9 Old 03-17-2014, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
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Skydork do I have to compress my fork tube to get to the nut, or are you saying I can pull up on it enough to get something under the nut to hold it on place?
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post #7 of 9 Old 03-17-2014, 01:10 PM
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Skydork do I have to compress my fork tube to get to the nut, or are you saying I can pull up on it enough to get something under the nut to hold it on place?
Yeah, you kinda do need to compress it to reveal the spring seat. The spring is at the bottom of the fork leg fully immersed in the fork fluid. They use a spring seat (nothing more than a fancy tube spacer) to provide the load between the lower fork leg and the cap. You need to compress this spring seat enough to expose the locking nut attaching the cap to the damping rod. The damping rod is inside the spring seat.

Thinking about this again, and knowing what tools I've used to compress this seat, you really should remove the leg from the bike. Otherwise you won't have enough room to be able to compress the seat. Or provide enough leverage to force against the spring. Once the cap is free from the outer leg, compressing the fork won't do anything as the outer leg will just slide down exposing the spring seat. There's no spring force between the outer tube and lower tube with the cap unthreaded. It's the spring seat that needs to be compressed away from the fork cap to reveal the damping rod and locknut for the cap inside it.

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post #8 of 9 Old 03-17-2014, 03:00 PM
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the first thing before setting any suspension up is to set your static sag then start messing with rebound and comp. I wouldnt take any notice of the manual much because the std spring weight might not suit your weight. if your stripping the forks down might be worth fitting the right springs. believe racetech website you can check on there for the right springs for you
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post #9 of 9 Old 03-30-2014, 06:33 AM Thread Starter
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I just wanted to give an update on this and say a big thanks for the help you guys gave. I ended up taking the forks out and I bought a Race Tech fork compressor and did it all within about an hour. I set the proper distance, got it back together and sure thing I had all my adjustment back!

Thanks again!
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