Gen 4 Shock Rebuild - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 21 Old 04-30-2019, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
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Gen 4 Shock Rebuild

Fork service was easy.
One day at streets of willow this weekend cooked a new Dunlop 0585 slick.
I'd like to change shock oil this weekend and possibly change the shim stack down the road.
Usually there is a schrader for adding nitrogen but I dont see the procedure in the service manual.

1) Where can this info be found?
2) Stock oil wt?
3) Quantity/level.
4) What do I need to machine or buy to fill with nitrogen after oil change.
5) Gas pressure

Please dont start down the polishing a turd stock shock vs Ohlins path just yet.

-Dork
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post #2 of 21 Old 04-30-2019, 10:02 PM
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This seems like a good starting point.....

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post #3 of 21 Old 05-01-2019, 12:10 AM Thread Starter
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Well, that about covers it. Racetech is pretty proud of their stuff. Thanks!
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post #4 of 21 Old 05-01-2019, 06:25 AM
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No Ohlins buuuuut there was a guy the other day in the classifieds selling some conversion links for the Showa rear shock that comes on the 5th gen. Not a bad upgrade if the stocker dont workout. You can normally find them for less than 150 bones.
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post #5 of 21 Old 05-01-2019, 09:51 AM
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Shocks are a bit of a beast to service compared to forks. Truthfully we always recommend having a shop do it vs a DIYER because if you get it wrong, it can be catastrophic. With that being said here are a few things for you.

In OEM shocks we use Maxima 3wt full synthetic SHOCK oil. - https://www.maximausa.com/product/sy...g-shock-fluid/ This is REALLY good oil and is very stable at higher temps. And the price is very reasonable.

Nitrogen pressure is 150 PSI. The OEM bladder cap has a rubber membrane that you pierce with a needle. You can convert it to a schrader valve but it's not necessary. If you do want to change it, you would have to replace the bladder cap with a RT one.

If you're planning on changing the valving you'll have to grind the peening off to access the nut, this can be easily messed up if you dont know what you're doing. Here's a few pics to show you what I mean.







If you're going this far, you might as well change out the seals on the sealhead. RT sells just oil and dust seal, we like to use a full rebuild kit that replaces all the o-rings.

And last, there is no "volume". You have to fill the shock and make sure there is absolutely no air in the shock. This is why most shops vacuum pump the shock. This allows the shock to be 100% full of oil, and is less mess.
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post #6 of 21 Old 05-01-2019, 09:53 AM
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Also you will never find a service procedure for shocks in the manual. The manufactures consider OEM shocks a "consumable" like brake pads or tires. If the shock wears out, they want you to buy a new one.

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post #7 of 21 Old 05-02-2019, 12:02 AM Thread Starter
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Great stuff, thanks.
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post #8 of 21 Old 05-02-2019, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dork View Post
Please dont start down the polishing a turd stock shock vs Ohlins path just yet.
-Dork
Maybe we can polish now?
Consider finding used Ohlins for good price, subastract resale value and you are at 250 max.
You do track, I think perfectly revalved shock will not match Ohlins stability in hot weather.
And much better tire wear alone justifies aftermarket shock easy.

Gen4 race: high spec.
Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusa 2013: stock.
Kawasaki KX450F 2016: love it.
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post #9 of 21 Old 05-02-2019, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carlos76 View Post
Maybe we can polish now?
Consider finding used Ohlins for good price, subastract resale value and you are at 250 max.
You do track, I think perfectly revalved shock will not match Ohlins stability in hot weather.
And much better tire wear alone justifies aftermarket shock easy.
$800. Add a MSS or Attack link and you are set.

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post #10 of 21 Old 05-02-2019, 11:05 AM
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Gen5 link will do, it is between MSS3.5 and MSS4.
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Gen4 race: high spec.
Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusa 2013: stock.
Kawasaki KX450F 2016: love it.
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