Forks Sticking - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 12 Old 06-14-2012, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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Forks Sticking

The bike is a 2006 ZX-10R, it is a race-only bike for me.
The forks have the 25mm Ohlins cartridge kits installed.
It appears the forks were re-valved by Thermosman.

I have been playing around with suspension settings trying to get the front-end sorted out, and when I pump the front suspension, it does not return up all the way. I have to pull it up. If I do pull it up, I can push it back down again and have it stay there. It looks like MAJOR stiction, like well over an inch and a half. Another example was having it ratcheted down in the back of my truck. When I released the tie-downs, the bike didn't come back up until I pulled on the handle-bars.

Messing with the rebound, if I turn it up to anything other than the last few clicks, the front effectively becomes a solid suspension that won't budge no matter how hard I try. So, I run it 2 clicks in from fully out to make it rideable. Weird thing there too, there is a different amount of available clicks between the left and right.

So, I plan on opening up the forks this weekend to give them a good cleaning, change-out the fluid, and make sure the fluid level is set correctly. What I'm looking for is any advice on things to check while I'm doing this that could cause this condition? Is it possible that the forks are just valved to where I should be running them with the rebound adjusters fully out? I personally would like to have more usable adjustability for different tracks.
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post #2 of 12 Old 06-14-2012, 03:42 PM
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First thing to check is the set screw for the damping rod adjuster under the fork cap. If you've got different settings on the rebound adjusters, that tells me that the rods weren't properly set during the first rebuild. Which means the forks are not equally set to each other (i.e. - 3 clicks out on the right leg does not equal 3 clicks out on the left). You need to have 13mm between the bottom of the top cap and the damping adjuster prior to screwing the end cap onto the damping rod.

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post #3 of 12 Old 06-14-2012, 03:47 PM
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They guy who installed Ohlins kit in my track forks said that the kit has a very small range of adjustment, i.e. you need to be very precise when setting the damping. I haven't touched it since it was set, so I don't know if the forks still click, but I suspect that if they do, they may need to be set to between the clicks.
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post #4 of 12 Old 06-15-2012, 07:44 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyDork View Post
First thing to check is the set screw for the damping rod adjuster under the fork cap. If you've got different settings on the rebound adjusters, that tells me that the rods weren't properly set during the first rebuild. Which means the forks are not equally set to each other (i.e. - 3 clicks out on the right leg does not equal 3 clicks out on the left). You need to have 13mm between the bottom of the top cap and the damping adjuster prior to screwing the end cap onto the damping rod.
I know what you're talking about with the stock forks, I think it was 10mm on my old GSXR forks, but looking through the instructions and pictures, I don't see a similar adjustment on the Ohlins cartridges. It may be there, I'll definitely look for it when I disassemble them this weekend.
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post #5 of 12 Old 06-15-2012, 01:18 PM
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Sounds like a preload problem,the spring rate should have something to do with it,cause it cant even hold the weight of the bike,If it was a damping problem,it would act differently i.e it would of needed more time to return back to its resting place,but it would.I would check the spring rate,the free length of the springs and go from there
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post #6 of 12 Old 06-15-2012, 01:19 PM
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And check the position of the preload adjusters
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post #7 of 12 Old 06-16-2012, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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Got the forks cleaned up real good, fresh Motul fork oil installed, and the forks are re-installed. It actually seems to have improved the situation considerably bouncing on it in the garage, haven't had a chance to ride it), but there is still a lot of stiction, more than I would like to see, especially for Ohlins shocks. I noticed that it happens after I torque the axle down, a lot more than when I just have it finger tight. I've been doing some research on that symptom and I've read some others here on this forum had similar issues because of the spacers not being wide enough. However, it seems to be isolated to Gen III and mine is a Gen II. However, there is a 0.025" gap that gets squeezed together when the axle nut tightens and the forks get a lot more stiction when that happens.

At this point, I think I'm going to try and source a 0.025" spacer to insert in there to see if it resolves the issue.
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post #8 of 12 Old 06-16-2012, 09:16 PM
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When you took the forks apart, you didn't see anything tight inside?
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post #9 of 12 Old 06-16-2012, 09:48 PM
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Ah shit. Not sure why I didn't mention that from the get-go as a possible problem. Send a PM to member Fred-R about some spacers. He's got some captive ones available for a good price that have the 0.029" offset built into them. He also has a thread out there detailing them with pics. Try the search term ".029" as it's in the thread title.

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post #10 of 12 Old 06-17-2012, 03:36 AM
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Dont know if it would negate the spacer problem, but you could try tightening the axle pinch bolts after aligning the forks. I found it best to use a block in front of the wheel and then force the forks down and back with the pinch bolts loosened off (without using the front brake). But I expect you already know all this.

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