Well, this project is starting to roll, so I'll post up progress as I go along. The short term goal is to have a 10psi, pump gas, water/meth injected set-up on a stock motor until something breaks, and then put in the mildly built (pistons, rods, clutch, valve springs/retainers) spare motor and run 16ish psi... again on pump gas and water/meth injection.
Being that I'm a broke-ass, I'm using my old supercharged bike as a base platform. It already has the fuel system and electronics to support 10psi... all I really have to do is modify the intake plenum, build a proper turbo exhaust, and clean up the look of the bike... I'll actually have my friend/airbrush artist paint the bike this time around. For the time being I do plan on taking and inch or two out of the ride height and going to a single side mount/traditional exhaust pipe....... no plans to stretch it or put an arm on it as of yet. Pictures to follow....
If that important that the exhaust header have the same length or volume for each piston ?
When I Look to the header #4 are very long, #2 and 3 are shorter and #1 are shorter then #4. Maybe it's not important at all.
When you look at the Britten exhaust arrangement (it's not a turbo, but the bike made by the new zelander Genius) a lot of work was done to keep the length of the header equal.
Length -can- be important, but more in relation to pulse dynamics than anything else. You worry about length only so far as it collects with other primaries and causes pulse effects back up the length of the primary.... it's a balance of flow and timing those pulses for a desired peak torque range (read: cam timing), but it isn't all about length. Changes in diameter or sharp bends also create pulse effects.... Simply put, it's an insane amount of math to get it exactly where you want in an NA set up, but it can yield benefits if it's done correctly. In a turbo manifold it gets all mucked up... Backpressure ratios and heat energy delivered to the turbine wheel make a much larger impact than pulse dynamics, IMHO.
Packaging restrictions limit me here, and as neanderthal as it is I can just hold the wastegate closed a little longer to make up for any difference in power that it might make. For the most part, "equal length primaries" is just another hype/performance buzzword that really doesn't mean what people think it means. It's a good question, but it can't really be answered in less than 100 pages. If it's something that really interests you, though, I can recommend some good reading.
Yea, I guess tax season is the perfect storm: race seasons are about to start and everyone has money burning a hole in their pocket. Lesson learned: do projects before January next time if I have to farm work out.
Since I'm stalled on parts, I decided to to my TB mods. Removed the secondary shafts and epoxied the holes, and installed the shiny new ID750's. ID injectors only really come in two sizes, and the smallest body size is still a bit too long to fit the stock ZX10/ZX14 set-up. Easy fix is to put a couple small spacers between the fuel rail mount and the injector bodies (Red circles). Really simple (you could even use washers if you had to), and you can run the best injectors on the market. The connectors are different, but you can either put new ones on the stock harness or use pigtail adapters that a variety of people sell. Green circles show zip ties on vacuum nipples; this is almost a must on any turbo project once you start upping the boost.... you won't believe the sort of headaches this will prevent down the road.
Second shot is of the smoothed up TB's. Just used hi-temp JB weld (the kind you get as a putty stick and have to knead together). If you use gloves and a bit of water you can mold the stuff like pottery clay.... nice and smooth. Those plugs are flush with the holes and smooth, and all I had to use was water and a paper towel to clean the excess, though it does take a few minutes of shaping/smoothing/wearing the putty down with your fingers. :biggrin:
Lowered the bike too (1.125 front, 1.5 rear), but everyone has seen how to do that... no sense on posting pictures for a set of dog bones. The set of Evil Swing Arm links are nice pieces, though, and very inexpensive. They give you a 0"/1.5"/3" adjustment range as well. :thumbsup:
I have a 1:1 regulator T'd into the fuel supply line with a seperate return line to the tank (which I think is a 'Yes' to your question). Want me to snap a few pictures of the set-up?
Don't know yet... they took my order but have yet to fill it, and it seems they only charge when they ship. List price on their set-up is about 700 bucks, though.
I feel like the stock rail is good up to the HP I'm willing to go. If I was trying for 400+ I would start to think about bigger lines/fuel rail. Some people talk about running the regulator at the opposite end of the fuel rail, but I've never seen it make a difference which way you do it... except for causing pulsation problems that way. Mazda actually put a fluid damper in the end of their fuel tails on the TT RX7's over the issue..... it was a PITA.
Hey on the throttle body bar that runs the secondaries that you removed did you leave the servo hooked up and just push it off to the side or did you build a circuit to bypass the servo?
I did remove the entire servo, but I'm going with a stand-alone ECU and not running secondary set-up at all.... Talk about freeing up a lot of room for the airbox/piping!! It's amazing how much that cleans up the valve cover area.
Although, making some sort of plug-n-play servo delete might be something TC or Hellrazor could whip up... I'd donate a servo if someone wanted to try it.
So I started to do some work today and pretty much ended up further behind then when I started. Oil supply fittings are going to be a custom affair, so I ordered those, a check valve, and a few BSP taps & dies so I can make adapters. I'm going to use some polished -10AN aluminum line to the pan with a weld on fitting for the drain, at least that should look pretty cool when it shows up. I'm having computer issues too trying to run a USB -> serial converter, and it's holding up my progress wiring & setting up the ECU. It's always something.
In the mean time, the snail and oil lines are in place, and I daresay they look good. The radiator will get a bracket/spacer off the compressor housing, and I'll have to modify the fan bracket ever so slightly. In the end I moved the base of the radiator about 3/4" forward, but clearances look good. The last picture really shows how high up above the pan I got the center-line of the turbo to mount..... Here's to hoping that it doesn't need a scavenge pump! ccasion1
Ha! I just welded a -10 fitting on my spare pan this weekend... waiting on a 37 degree flaring tool to show up so I can make the hard line (turns out my cheap one only went up to -8).
On a side note, I have the snail fully mounted. I made quite possibly the most over engineered wastegate actuator bracket in existence, but it fits uber-tight and is adjustable if I have to re-clock the housing at all. The other picture is something I made for a lower radiator mount; the stock piece goes right through where the collector flange now sits. This little guy screws into the compressor housing and the other end just slips through the rubber grommet on the bottom of the radiator. The inside is threaded, and you just use a washer/bolt to capture it all. The neat thing about that is I can rotate the compressor housing a little each way to change how tight the radiator fits! Even bettter news is that the fan fits in the stock location with just a little trimming to the lower bracket. I believe the base of the radiator only moved out less than an inch, and everything clears without issue. The 2" charge piping will even fit behind the stock coolant hoses and make it past the motor mount/radiator/fan/valve cover without having to hack or chop anything.... bout time I had some good news.
I'll post pictures of the whole mounting once I finish the oiling system. :mrgreen:
Ooooooohhh shit, the UPS fairy came by yesterday night. :mrgreen: It's about damn time I got some of the expensive parts in! I ended up with these instead of the Crower's, as they couldn't figure out how to get any in stock in less than 2-3 months. I haven't checked the weight/balance/dimensions yet, but these are really nice looking/well put together rods.
So the water/meth injection kit from RB Racing finally showed up yesterday. It took a long goddamn time (ordered it Feb 10th), but the quality is as promised. Communication with these guys is non-existant, but they do eventually get your stuff done. They even reduced the price when I told them I didn't need a Hobb switch or LED... though I did not specifically ask them to do so. In the end they knocked 100 bucks off the list price. One look at the pictures and you can see why it was worth waiting for, though. All the connectos, switches, relays, & wires come with it... and they are all nice uncrimped weather-pack style stuff. It's not a plug-n-play set-up AT ALL, but that's exactly what I wanted.
The little guy draws 3 amps at peak (vs 10 for the bilge pump), and operates at 1000psi at my flow rate (vs 150ish for the other). The weight difference is staggering (like 5-7lbs I'd say). An the size difference... good grief.
That WMI kit looks mint. Sure, it costs a pretty penny, but WMI is not something you want to cheap out on. I look forward to seeing your results, I know for a fact that you are going to be amazed by what it can do.
Dont know what you do for a liven but with all that brain power happening i dont know why your not at a higher end performance shop..Build it on company dime..lol
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