Gen 1: Valve Adustment Question

[hellsrazor]

I am doing my valves on my 05.
I have been reading up on this and came across someone who says
that you can skip setting it at TDC #1, #4.

That was a step to save time for shop mechs on the clock.
And that you can just turn the cam lobes facing up away from the lifter
and measure them that way.

Is that true??

Also, When I insert the feeler gauge, it kinda feels like the lifter compresses
a bit for the gauge to slide in. Is that right??
And lastly, can some explain in a little more detail on the feeler gauges,
cause I bought two different sets and they each only have a couple of
blades that are in the specs.

[hellsrazor]

P.S. I did d/l the valve sheet too.

[tjunkie]

Saw your pm, wish I could help. I leave my motor work to the pros

[El Zilcho]

I don't think that's a safe thing to do. TDC and BDC are well defined positions, and so it's easy to precisely specify the required clearances.

[bringthemosh]

i wouldnt skip setting cylinders 1 and 4 to tdc. pretty simple use the chart set cylinder 1 to tdc check all the valves on the chart labeled #1 tdc, record readings, then do # 4 and check the valves labeled #4 tdc. as for the feeler gauge if you have to jam it in thats not the reading, you should be able to put the gauge in between the valve and cam with "slight" resistance. once you find that shim on the feeler gauge you've got your reading, also i know for 04 you need shims from kawi to make valve adjustments and took about 4 weeks for me to get.

[bringthemosh]

also on the feeler gauge you might need to make a combination of a couple blades to get the proper reading, if you do just add up the sizes

[antaren]

I am in the middle of a valve job on a gen 2, I'm at the point where I've taken off the cams and I'm about to replace the shims that are out of spec.

Do not skip the TDC step. I don't see how this would save time considering it takes less then a minute to rotate the engine to the proper setting. If you are having trouble, remove the spark plugs, this makes rotating the engine a little easier but still doesn't get rid of its tendency to lurch forward while rotating.

You are right to think that there is something wrong. Using feeler gauges are a PITA on the kawi. Even with the L shaped gauges, its next to impossible to get a straight shot at the lobes. I was forced to use straight feeler gauges and gently coax them between the cam and lifter.

At first I thought I was doing something wrong, every single valve was out of spec. I found that yes, you do have to use a small amount of force to get the feeler gauge between the cam and the lifter. That being said, once you do this, you will see there is a very big difference between a feeler gauge that needs some coaxing to go in, verses a feeler gauge that is too big and will not fit.

Also, I am in the same boat as you as far as the feeler gauges not being accurate enough. I am using a feeler gauge that measures in thousandths of an inch, and this is not accurate enough! If you have not gone too far, stop right now and look for a more accurate set.

Hope that helps.

[antaren]

Originally Posted by bringthemosh

also on the feeler gauge you might need to make a combination of a couple blades to get the proper reading, if you do just add up the sizes

!@#%!@%!!!!

DOH

Why on earth did I not remember that trick, then my gauges would definable be accurate enough. I need to lay off the whiskey and whores ... or just the whiskey.

[hellsrazor]

Originally Posted by bringthemosh

i wouldnt skip setting cylinders 1 and 4 to tdc. pretty simple use the chart set cylinder 1 to tdc check all the valves on the chart labeled #1 tdc, record readings, then do # 4 and check the valves labeled #4 tdc. as for the feeler gauge if you have to jam it in thats not the reading, you should be able to put the gauge in between the valve and cam with "slight" resistance. once you find that shim on the feeler gauge you've got your reading, also i know for 04 you need shims from kawi to make valve adjustments and took about 4 weeks for me to get.

10-4, Got it too. Thanks

Originally Posted by antaren

I am in the middle of a valve job on a gen 2, I'm at the point where I've taken off the cams and I'm about to replace the shims that are out of spec.

Do not skip the TDC step. I don't see how this would save time considering it takes less then a minute to rotate the engine to the proper setting. If you are having trouble, remove the spark plugs, this makes rotating the engine a little easier but still doesn't get rid of its tendency to lurch forward while rotating.

You are right to think that there is something wrong. Using feeler gauges are a PITA on the kawi. Even with the L shaped gauges, its next to impossible to get a straight shot at the lobes. I was forced to use straight feeler gauges and gently coax them between the cam and lifter.

At first I thought I was doing something wrong, every single valve was out of spec. I found that yes, you do have to use a small amount of force to get the feeler gauge between the cam and the lifter. That being said, once you do this, you will see there is a very big difference between a feeler gauge that needs some coaxing to go in, verses a feeler gauge that is too big and will not fit.

Also, I am in the same boat as you as far as the feeler gauges not being accurate enough. I am using a feeler gauge that measures in thousandths of an inch, and this is not accurate enough! If you have not gone too far, stop right now and look for a more accurate set.

Hope that helps.

Yeah, definitely helps bro, thanks

[10r4ever]

You don't absolutely need to have them at #1 and #4 TDC to check the valves. You can, like you have read, just position the cam lobes up and away from the valves to check them for each individual cylinder. I found this helped me when using the feeler gauges. But u definitely can't go wrong by following the service manual if that makes you more comfortable.