Clutch problems?

[REDVENOM]

yeah, with an extra steel, how would that work? I mean you would have 2 steels touching....

how do you like the drag pak? Do you replace all the friction and steels at once....as in a set already at the required 2.11 stack height?

[-Op-]

do you still have the AntiChatter plate? I dont have a picture of one, but it basically looks like 2 plates stuck together already. Its in the factory clutch pack, should be the only one thats any different. Use some slight sand paper on it and then toss that in there instead of one of the steel plates.

[REDVENOM]

I know exactly what you are referring to but my stock clutch did not have this. It has a small spring seat ring and spring ring that goes between the first and second steel. I think what you are referring to was on the 04-05...

[-Op-]

sorry, I missed the 07 part. I didnt realize that the clutch packs were different between the Gens like that, I just assumed they were all the same. Just another thought though, what if you were to buy an AntiChatter Plate and install it anyways? Should be able to get you the stack height you need.

[REDVENOM]

I think my biggest frustration is that I understood the clutch pack that I was getting should be 2.11. I was told it should work just replacing the stock with the new stack. I wanted all new plates and not have to use any old stuff....ya know? Now since I had so much slippage, the steels are just about all discolored from the heat. Even the friction plates are discolored, I guess from the heat.

[cookmaster30]

Originally Posted by REDVENOM

yeah, with an extra steel, how would that work? I mean you would have 2 steels touching....

how do you like the drag pak? Do you replace all the friction and steels at once....as in a set already at the required 2.11 stack height?

i love mine man and dwayne is great at helping you out after the sale.

[REDVENOM]

Well I called Dwayne at Cycle Concepts and ordered his drag pak. It came at the exact height that he said it would. Put everything back together this afternoon and now it will not disengage!! I know it is not the stack height and I am pulling the cable as far as I can. You can tell it needs just a little bit more to disengage. I double checked everything....Dwayne resommended that I use 2 stock springs and 4 of the 70 lb ones Hays sent me. I noticed that the 70 lb ones are longer than stock, is there a chance they are bottoming out and not letting the puller rod pull but so far. I know that I don't have the stoke that I had before (stock) either....

[nolaZX10]

Open up the oil plug on the clutch cover, you should be able to see the clutch engage/disengage through there to see if you are having spring bind. I doubt it though. You can always throw the old ones back in there to test that theory.

It sounds to me like the clutch cable is not properly adjusted. Adjust it at the clutch cover, then use the perch adjustment for fine tune. You will also need to readjust after each run for the first few runs.

[REDVENOM]

You can see it move through the oil hole. Not far enough though. As far as the cable adjustment, that is good. What I am saying is that the release lever will not go any farther even if you put a adjustable wrench on it and try to turn it manually.

[REDVENOM]

I couldn't stand it, I had to go back to the shop and tear it back apart tonight.....looks like the springs are too long. I can't believe this...the clutch stack from Hays was not thick enough and the springs he sent are too long. I measured them at there rest state and then how much they compressed when they are tightened down. There is not much left before they will bottom out. I put all the stock springs back in and that's it! The release lever is allowed to move farther and it is able to disengage fully. I fine tuned the cable adjustment and looks like its good to go. I will do some test pulls tomorrow and see how it does. I have a pull saturday night so I will really put it to the test then.....