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Old 05-08-2012, 08:24 AM   #151
SBK X
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike-b View Post
Can you just leave the actuator intack but remove the rod that connects to the flapper?
I took out everything, the flap, the actuator motor, the rod then covered the hole the actuator left with 100mph tape, ground out the inside of the intake to remove the bits the flap had originally sat on and blocked the vacuum line by inserting a bolt in the vacuum line.

I kinda think if your gonna do it then do it but yeah as Caprice said you could just pull the flap and rod from the actuator out and block the vac line.
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Old 05-08-2012, 11:02 AM   #152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SBK X View Post
I will put this warning out there, be VERY CAREFUL with running resistors on the flapper valve actuator to kill the FI light!

At the last race I did, I went to head out of the shed for P1 and there was a mass amount of smoke coming from the left side of my fairing.

The resistor got that hot that the elecky tape around the resistor which was over the top of proper heat shrink tried to catch on fire. The one on the pair valve motor has been fine, but I'm suss on that flapper actuator.

It led to me getting next to no practice before qualifying which was bulk annoying, so just be carefull and if you are going to do it make sure you can get to it quick if needed as I seriously thought my bike was about to go up in flames.
Were you able to resolve this issue? Or did you end up using the same setup.

Also, regarding the 2 x 10w10ohm resistor, is there a way to run a single 20w20ohm resistor?

Thanka for all the help guys, just trying to sort this out before i get it tuned.
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Old 05-08-2012, 01:09 PM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike-b
Can you just leave the actuator intack but remove the rod that connects to the flapper?

Quote:
Originally Posted by SBK X View Post
I took out everything, the flap, the actuator motor, the rod then covered the hole the actuator left with 100mph tape, ground out the inside of the intake to remove the bits the flap had originally sat on and blocked the vacuum line by inserting a bolt in the vacuum line.

I kinda think if your gonna do it then do it but yeah as Caprice said you could just pull the flap and rod from the actuator out and block the vac line.
Ok. I hate to sound like a idiot. But. Where's this flapper valve on the intake?

Ive removed the & modded the block off plates. Installed the Race ECU & harness.
I didnt see a valve or actuator.
Is it only on the Euro bikes?

Thanx
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Old 05-08-2012, 05:53 PM   #154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDSZX10R o8 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike-b
Can you just leave the actuator intack but remove the rod that connects to the flapper?



Ok. I hate to sound like a idiot. But. Where's this flapper valve on the intake?

Ive removed the & modded the block off plates. Installed the Race ECU & harness.
I didnt see a valve or actuator.
Is it only on the Euro bikes?

Thanx
Its right at the front of the bike. When you look down on the ram air between the head lights, its maybe 4" in from the mesh on the ram air. Might be a euro thing.
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Old 05-09-2012, 05:07 AM   #155
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This is a pic from someone elses thread, you can see the actuator (round bit on the top) and the rod that is connected to the flap.
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Old 05-09-2012, 05:25 PM   #156
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Must be a Euro thing. I definetely dont have one. We may have the restricted bikes over here in NA. But at least we dont have flappers on our intakes. :-)

This thread & (Spiffy's, Jlove & others) are very much appriecated for the rest of the Gen 4 trackers.

please keep us posted.

thanx.
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Old 05-09-2012, 08:44 PM   #157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDSZX10R o8 View Post
Must be a Euro thing. I definetely dont have one. We may have the restricted bikes over here in NA. But at least we dont have flappers on our intakes. :-)

This thread & (Spiffy's, Jlove & others) are very much appriecated for the rest of the Gen 4 trackers.

please keep us posted.

thanx.
John, I am quite sure my 2011 demo last year had the flapper. I can show you the actuator at the base of your snorkle next time I see you. It is exactly the same unit used on my RC51.
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Old 05-10-2012, 02:06 AM   #158
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^^ Well if there was one I removed it & cant find it in the pile of extra parts I have now. I was stripping this thing at 2:30 am. I may have misplaced it & cant remember.(old age)
There is a deflector plate(under my thumb in one of the pics. It is a solid piece of plastic attached to the cage that holds the foam on the inside of the intake tunnel.

Might see U Saturday at the track. If volunteers are still needed?
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Old 05-10-2012, 02:35 AM   #159
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So its safe to just remove the actuator and plug the vacuum line going to it and leave everything else connected? Obviously block the hole where i used to mount.

As with what jdszx10r said, I definitely appreciate all the help you guys give us.
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Old 05-10-2012, 04:41 AM   #160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike-b View Post
So its safe to just remove the actuator and plug the vacuum line going to it and leave everything else connected? Obviously block the hole where i used to mount.

As with what jdszx10r said, I definitely appreciate all the help you guys give us.
Safe as

And glad to be of help guys, I'm onto sussing other things out at the moment to so should have some new stuff to share with everyone soonish if my thinking is correct (happens only occasionally so don't get your hopes up )

Oh and JDSZX10R 08 - that rubber bung in your intake looks factory as mate, max jealous lol!!
And Spliffy and JLove have both been very helpfull to myself also, both very knowledgable guys and simply good blokes to deal with.

Last edited by SBK X; 05-10-2012 at 04:46 AM.
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