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Discussion starter · #601 · (Edited)
USPS attempted to deliver my logbox yesterday and left a notice saying I could pick it up tomorrow (now today) after 10am. I went to the Post office at noon today, "Sorry I don't know where you package is. We will call you once we find it."

Very sad as I was looking forward to recording a unboxing video tonight.

:update:

turns out the package was there the entire time its just that the "new guy" didn't know where to look. Time to start playing
 
USPS attempted to deliver my logbox yesterday and left a notice saying I could pick it up tomorrow (now today) after 10am. I went to the Post office at noon today, "Sorry I don't know where you package is. We will call you once we find it."

Very sad as I was looking forward to recording a unboxing video tonight.

:update:

turns out the package was there the entire time its just that the "new guy" didn't know where to look. Time to start playing

Gotta love usps. This happened with some turn signals I bought from a member here, except it sat in the post office for 2 weeks because someone filed it under the senders address... IN CANADA. Wow...

Let us know what you think! I just blew waaay too much dough on parts, but it's ok because now that suspension and controls are out of the way, I can move on to fuel/power next ;)





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I installed mine (LBP+Z02) three days ago, test rides, data collection & reflashed yesterday and today and in my not so humble opinion it's a massive WINNER!

My flashing starting point was Justin's graves based mapshare which I ran for a few months. After fine tuning with the LogBox Pro (LPB) & Zeitronix wideband O2 (ZO2) my bike is so smooth now, so crisp. Amazing transformation. AND I get to fine tune it as much as I like. Yes, tune your bike to the limit. You get to decide what the limit is.

After three G4s in three and a bit years (I received the first customer delivered G4 in Australia), two sadly no longer with us, and an assortment of dynosaur mods to get fuelling set up, I'm now ecstatically happy :eek:ccasion14:

:thumbsup: arc seal of approval.

A.
 
nice.

I wonder what AFR kawasaki recommends for the 4th gen engine and how they determine what AFR is optimal.
Kawasaki is governed by many things when they develop the fueling for a bike, emmissions, fuel quality, inexperienced riders etc etc.

If you ask 5 different tuners what AFR they target you will generally get 5 different answers :) What I have found is a target AFR of around 13.1-13.2 on the dyno works well as a balance between peak power, engine longevity and safety. When you factor in Ram Air that translates to about 13.4-13.5 on the road, so this is the target AFR that we have provided as the base in WRT.

You can probably squeeze a few more hp by leaning it out to 13.6 but you will reduce engine longevity and safety.

Feel free to chime in any of the tuners around here as well, as its always good to have an open discussion about these things.
 
For me as an everyday street rider, and some track with a 30k mile Gen4, I'm trying to determine whether the LGP kit is something I could benefit from. I currently have a PCV and Annitori RL QS that I could sell at some point to go towards the LGP, but I'm not sure how long till we will get the QS function either. Any advice/suggestions is appreciated.

Note: I currently have the Woolich Racing ECU flash.
 
Kawasaki is governed by many things when they develop the fueling for a bike, emmissions, fuel quality, inexperienced riders etc etc.

If you ask 5 different tuners what AFR they target you will generally get 5 different answers :) What I have found is a target AFR of around 13.1-13.2 on the dyno works well as a balance between peak power, engine longevity and safety. When you factor in Ram Air that translates to about 13.4-13.5 on the road, so this is the target AFR that we have provided as the base in WRT.

You can probably squeeze a few more hp by leaning it out to 13.6 but you will reduce engine longevity and safety.

Feel free to chime in any of the tuners around here as well, as its always good to have an open discussion about these things.
What is the concept and function of the IAP map(I understand it is a ram air compensation) and what do the grid values relate to?
 
It's my understanding that the IAP map controls 0% to 10% throttle the grid is measured in kpa and is the absolute pressure between the manifold and atmospheric TPS takes over at 11%.
Just add few things to that : IAP stand for intake absolute pressure ,each manufacturer may call it different ,GM calls it MAP ,manifold absolute pressure.

In old days carburetor and mechanical fuel injection vehicles had problems moving from high altitude to lower so in 90's they change the mechanical fuel injection to electronics and using this system to correct fuel ratio at lower RPM's . it is not so much 0 to 10% of throttle could be a bit more or less . it will measure the amount of air before main butterfly and electronic control module adjust the fuel ,( IAP map ),

of course if we want to get real technical about it , there is lot more to that but this is a simple way to put it.
 
USPS attempted to deliver my logbox yesterday and left a notice saying I could pick it up tomorrow (now today) after 10am. I went to the Post office at noon today, "Sorry I don't know where you package is. We will call you once we find it."

Very sad as I was looking forward to recording a unboxing video tonight.

:update:

turns out the package was there the entire time its just that the "new guy" didn't know where to look. Time to start playing
Any update or video? Did I miss it somehow?
 
Discussion starter · #614 ·
Any update or video? Did I miss it somehow?
I broke my gopro (dropped it on the garage floor with no case on it). Come to find out the GoPro is very durable with the case on but if you drop it without the case on and the lens lands facedown it will do some SERIOUS damage. I also learned that the audio sounds like crap with the case on it. I have ordered the skeleton case with my new Hero3+ so the video should come out good.

I considered doing it with my cell phone last night but it was too dark and would have looked awful. To meet some obligations I will be doing some video that will likely include some review.

I was planning on ordering a new GoPro Hero3+ anyways. Unfortunately I didn't want to hold off on the install while i ordered a new camera.
 
Discussion starter · #615 ·
In leui of a unboxing video I mocked up RBZ10Rs original image with a descrption of each item
http://i.imgur.com/FOgPdET.png

Rough Install explained using paint
http://i.imgur.com/G510yQv.png

Thus far I have only installed the kit and tested it by viewing the live engine data in WRT. Overall I was pleased with the kit. I wish the harness was prebuilt but im sure this kit will be used for other models so it would be unfeasable to create so many custom harnesses. I would have also preferred some higher guage wire and connectors. It would probably run you $5 to purchase this from the hardware store. So if you are so inclined to update those part it would not be costly.

The O2 sensor seemed impossiblely difficult to route in such a manner that it wont rub on the swingarm or melt while sitting on the engine. The O2 bung is where it is, that's not a decision by WR. I just wish it was set back further a couple of inches down the link pipe. So if you have to install the bung yourself be sure to plan ahead. Luckily it is not too hard to reroute that wire if I decide to move it. I MAY consider removing it once the bike is tuned.

If I were to do the install again it would likely take no more than 60 minutes including building the harness, unassembling and reassembly everything. I spent about 2-3 hours but it was a lot of stopping for a beer breaks and evaluating the many options for routing the wires. The biggest lesson I learned was to NOT try to build the harness ahead of time. I ended up with way too much extra wire but I had already soldered on the ends and didnt want to do that over again. This brings me to the next point, MAKE SURE to solder all the connectors. The wire guage is so low that simply crimping on will not be enough to make a good connection. The instructions provided by Justin were more than sufficient and much better than the average install manual. The only thing I deviated from his instructions was for the ignition wire. I didnt want to tap into one of the factory harnesses, so I tapped off the ignition wire that is found on the on bike harness. I beleive it was a orange/pink color. Make sure to test it with a multimeter, 0V when ignition is off and 12v with it on.

Feel free to ask me any questions in regards to the install itself. Hold off on any autotune questions (direct them to Justin or RBZ10R) until I get a chance to actually log some useful engine data (probably not till spring). I plan to make a video showing what it looks like installed and a brief overview of what the engine data looks like. So look out for that soon.


Pros
AWESOME high quality full featured product
Unique in features that cannot be matched by any another other available product.
Bluetooth support. Hopefully a app to view the engine data will be added.

Cons
Pricey but good value compared to any other solution.
Wire connectors could be higher quality
Standard shipping is slow going from AUS to USA. So Order ASAP to cut down on that wait time.
If you previously purchased a bench harness and Mitsubishi USB Interface those items are basically absolete. The LBP and on bike harness totally replace both of them.

Overall
If you have been waiting NOW is the time to buy. With the exception of quick shifter funtionality there is no reason to wait any longer.

5/5 Stars
 
I broke my gopro (dropped it on the garage floor with no case on it). Come to find out the GoPro is very durable with the case on but if you drop it without the case on and the lens lands facedown it will do some SERIOUS damage. I also learned that the audio sounds like crap with the case on it. I have ordered the skeleton case with my new Hero3+ so the video should come out good.

I considered doing it with my cell phone last night but it was too dark and would have looked awful. To meet some obligations I will be doing some video that will likely include some review.

I was planning on ordering a new GoPro Hero3+ anyways. Unfortunately I didn't want to hold off on the install while i ordered a new camera.
lol, I do a lot of late night running, 2AM, (many run ins with drunks and pyschos) and carry my GoPro and record it. I dropped my Hero2 one night and put 2 big scratches on the lens, but they don't appear in the video, but your right, in the case kills the audio.
 
Discussion starter · #618 ·
lol, I do a lot of late night running, 2AM, (many run ins with drunks and pyschos) and carry my GoPro and record it. I dropped my Hero2 one night and put 2 big scratches on the lens, but they don't appear in the video, but your right, in the case kills the audio.
I have a hero3+ with a skeleton case arriving tomorrow (REI 20% off coupon) which should make for some high quality video that doesn't have muffled audio.
 
Good honest review SpecV.
Now for everyone that has the auto tune check when u start recording data if there are some cells that just keep on getting adjusted.
Eg, on my PCV auto tune some areas kept pulling or adding fuel up to 100%, which is just rediculous.
I've had noticed with the Woolich AT that it's recorded data in some areas of 100 plus times and is pulling out huge amounts of fuel but the cell directly below it makes like a 2% change...
 
I've had noticed with the Woolich AT that it's recorded data in some areas of 100 plus times and is pulling out huge amounts of fuel but the cell directly below it makes like a 2% change...
Here's some preliminary data from mine, delta change is from a AU stock ECU, autotune mods are Akra slip on with link pipe, Woolich based "graves full system" map with STP changes:



and



Yes, some cells don't flow neatly between each other, that's because I don't have a huge amount of data yet to feed into the autotune function.

A.
 
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