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Thread: Cam Chain Tensioner problem Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
05-08-2017 05:09 PM
lukky14 Kawi did the recall on my 16 a few weeks ago, swapped out the manual for automatic. At first it was still noisy, but after a ride it seemed to do it's job and not nearly as noisy anymore.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
05-08-2017 04:35 AM
Cabilloabajo Thanks
Originally Posted by th3r3ds0x View Post
Mine 2016 was quite bad, started around 500 miles on the clock. Got an APE manual tensioner. Definitely worth the 90$.
05-07-2017 09:01 PM
th3r3ds0x Mine 2016 was quite bad, started around 500 miles on the clock. Got an APE manual tensioner. Definitely worth the 90$.
05-07-2017 06:22 PM
Cabilloabajo My Gen5 has 3k miles and it's starting to sound a little bit. My friends gen5 it's been to the dealership 3 times for the same noise.
03-21-2017 01:08 AM
Originally Posted by bun1t View Post
This is correct. The new part number is similar to the Gen 4 style CCT. They said the original 16 style was putting too much tension on the chain.
That does not make any sense. Your dealer lied to you - much like mine does.

If the tensioner was placing too much pressure on the cam chain you would not hear the BB's in a box sound, instead you would hear a whirring noise. The reason people hear the BB's in a box is because the cam chain does not have enough pressure on it an it is slapping around, like a red light district wet noodle.
03-21-2017 12:52 AM
EJR Yeah, I was thinking valve adjustments on cylinder 4. Really though, the camshaft gears are marked on the outside with either an IN (intake) or EX (exaust). The markings are facing the frame, so you may have to use a mirror to see them with a flashlight. In the manual it will tell you the position these markings (they are underlined on the gear itself) they have to be in relative to the top of the head when set to 1/4 on the timing gear. In other words, you set the timimg gear to 1/4, and place the camshafts in the head so that the underlined IN and EX underlines are parallel to the top of the head. This will ensure you never screw the timing and is a good sanity check after you are done adjusting valves etc.
03-12-2017 01:38 PM
Bottoms-Up I've installed a few of the APE manual CCT's I've never removed the cams.

It's a easy like 1/2hr job. Remove the old one, install the new, adjust, done.

Nothing more to it.

Might have to remove the one rad hose, no need to drain rad, just remove hose
for extra room.

If you are removing cam's for valve adjust the best thing to do is to just
mark cam/chain with paint pen put a couple on a couple of bungee cords on the chain to keep tension.
03-12-2017 08:27 AM
Originally Posted by EJR View Post
Then just remove the cams
This seems like complete unnecessary overkill.

Why not just zip tie the chain to to the cams (do both cams if you really have to), the chain won't then move when you take out the CCT and your timing won't be thrown out.

Unless you're doing your valve adjustment at the same time, I wouldn't be taking out cams to fit a CCT.
03-09-2017 03:18 PM
EJR No, the position of the pistons will not affect the tension on the chain. The way I did it which is the easiest and guarantees accuracy is to clean the oil off the cam sprockets and the chain and put a line in white out or permanant marker across the sprocket and chain. Then just remove the cams, do your work, put them back in and adjust the teeth on the chain until the lines line up. The only thing you need to be careful of is dropping the chain down in the motor. Let me know if you have any questions, I know the motor and the work pretty good.
03-03-2017 03:49 PM
Originally Posted by Gen-Eric View Post
My bike started making the clicking noise at about 300 miles and only got worse through 1000 miles. I self diagnosed/assumed it was the CCT based on a youtube video posted by another forum member, and all the complaints about the CCT. My dealer finally decided to replace it under warranty, and I confirmed on their parts order that the part they ordered was a different part number than the original CCT. It's the same part # that OEM parts sites now show - something like a bunch of 99999-999

12048-0096[old] 99999-0573[new]

One of the techs said the new part is actually the tensioner from their older models, I think pre-2016. My point here is maybe the dealer put in the bad tensioner, part # 12048-0096

Anyways, after the dealer replaced the tensioner, the issue is gone, and now my bike sounds like an old MAC truck ;)
This is correct. The new part number is similar to the Gen 4 style CCT. They said the original 16 style was putting too much tension on the chain.
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