Gen 4: 2011-2015 The "tick" ....... Normal - Page 4 - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #31 of 265 Old 05-15-2011, 10:08 AM
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My gen4 had 'the noise'. Dyno'd it today. 171.43hp completely stock. Beat a mates brand new hyabusa. I was nervous at first, & the 1st run was 160... They changed a couple of settings & got more. Only an s1000rr with akro, pc & tune got more... Couldn't fully disable the abs.

Nice to know it's not broke!
Nice numbers. Does it still tick, or gone now?
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post #32 of 265 Old 05-15-2011, 03:30 PM
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At around 1150kms, the disconcerting cam chain noise stopped. It also seemed to run much better... Launched the nose on me for the first time on my STD run home from work!

It still has the kwaka tick though... Just like my previous 6r & 9r did.
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post #33 of 265 Old 05-15-2011, 03:41 PM
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Guess there's no need to worry then. Duc's make alot a noise too, so just something to get used too I guess.
Side note: I can't wait to get my full Evo, Pc5 and filter installed and dyno'd! I have a 21 mile shot of highway back home from the shop to test her new power on. :)
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post #34 of 265 Old 05-16-2011, 01:36 AM
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At around 1150kms, the disconcerting cam chain noise stopped. It also seemed to run much better...
Are you sure it was better after the tensioner clicked to the next position... or did it seem better?

At 7,500 km my cam chain abruptly started slapping again (it probably developed enough slack to develop that annoying slap pattern). While impatiently waiting for the next notch, I've ordered an APE manual tensioner.

It's now a race to see if the APE tensioner arrives or the original tensioner clicks over first.
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post #35 of 265 Old 05-16-2011, 03:18 AM
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My assessment is based on the fact that most of my riding (unfortunately) is to and from work (and I sometimes wimp out and take the car if it's too cold). On my way home from work, I take the same on-ramp onto a 100Km zone. I generally give it a bit up this ramp. I have noticed that consistently on the up-change since it clicked in, that the front gets flighty.

Granted, it's anecdotal, but that's all I've got. I will give it everything up the ramp the next time the noise clicks in, and let you know.
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post #36 of 265 Old 05-16-2011, 04:46 AM
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My assessment is based on the fact that most of my riding (unfortunately) is to and from work (and I sometimes wimp out and take the car if it's too cold). On my way home from work, I take the same on-ramp onto a 100Km zone. I generally give it a bit up this ramp. I have noticed that consistently on the up-change since it clicked in, that the front gets flighty.

Granted, it's anecdotal, but that's all I've got. I will give it everything up the ramp the next time the noise clicks in, and let you know.
> most of my riding (unfortunately) is to and from work
Ditto.

I thought it idled better after it clicked in the first time, but the question I ask myself is: did it simply sounds better? - possibly.

BTW, I have one opportunity to give it a handful on my daily commute when it always lifts the front; both before and since the noise has returned.

Of interest for those that believe the 2011 model is lame in the mid range, which in stock form before fully run-in I agreed. All I have done since in the power department is -1 front sprocket and an Akrapovic slip-on with sound baffle removed. My perception now is it is on par with my previous GSX-R1000k9 (well respect for mid range grunt) of course well surpasses it beyond 10,000 RPM.

> (and I sometimes wimp out and take the car if it's too cold)
You can add heated grips and have the second ZX-10R for wimps.
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post #37 of 265 Old 05-16-2011, 04:56 AM
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If I could stuff a bunch of heated hand-grips in various un-publishable spots around the bike... I'd do it. With two minus 7 degrees celsius days in a row... I'm going with heated leather seats & 3 zone climate control. ;-)
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post #38 of 265 Old 05-16-2011, 08:11 AM
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The tick and tock sound on a gen 4 actually come from the cam chain, some units came with weak tensioner spring so the tensioner rod is not push fully to take up the chain slack. What i did was removed the tensioner, pull the spring slightly longer than std so that the spring tension will be stronger when compress and push the tensioner rod further to take up the chain slack. The noise is gone now. Please refer to w/shop manual how to remove and install tensioner. Do refer to your mechanic if this modification is ok or not.
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post #39 of 265 Old 05-16-2011, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rajaazman View Post
The tick and tock sound on a gen 4 actually come from the cam chain, some units came with weak tensioner spring so the tensioner rod is not push fully to take up the chain slack. What i did was removed the tensioner, pull the spring slightly longer than std so that the spring tension will be stronger when compress and push the tensioner rod further to take up the chain slack. The noise is gone now. Please refer to w/shop manual how to remove and install tensioner. Do refer to your mechanic if this modification is ok or not.
Cool, thanks for the tip!

On a side note:
We gotta lil colder air moving in yesterday from Saturday's rain (Central Florida), so I got about three hours of riding in. Soo nice when it's cool out, my bike agree's too ;). The early Summer heat is brutal in the daytime on a black bike, so I do most of my riding in the evening, or at night lately.
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post #40 of 265 Old 05-16-2011, 03:57 PM
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Quantum: the other thing I noticed is that it starts first time now. Previously, if it was cold, it could take 2 or even 3 goes before it caught. The weather is now much colder, & I haven't had to crank a second time since the noise stopped.
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