How To remove KLEEN / AIS for Cal / 50st bikes - Page 2 - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
 
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post #11 of 148 Old 06-19-2004, 10:07 PM
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do you live ont he west coast? if so could you do it for me ill buy you something for your bike j/k
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post #12 of 148 Old 06-20-2004, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by stunnerific_harry
do you live ont he west coast? if so could you do it for me ill buy you something for your bike j/k
Gladly. But I think I'll take a new bike to go with all the somethings I have, instead. I won't be able to work on anything until the collar bone heals, tho.
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post #13 of 148 Old 06-21-2004, 09:29 AM
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It's a pretty straight forward job using some basic tools once the seat, black side panels (2), gas tank, and both side body panels are removed for easy access to the solenoid
yeah, easy access my ass!

Canyon- when you installed the block-off plates, did you use any silicone grease around the edge to seal them? Or do you think that's important? I got one plate installed last night, and didn't think about using the grease until after it was all tightened down. I really don't want to have to pull it back off if I don't have to since the forward bolt is a pain in the ass to get to.

Also, I wonder if it might be a good idea to wire up a resistor in place of that air solenoid thingy so the ECU won't notice that it's gone. Just a thought....

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post #14 of 148 Old 06-21-2004, 10:10 AM Thread Starter
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:D

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post #15 of 148 Old 06-21-2004, 10:47 AM
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Canyon- when you installed the block-off plates, did you use any silicone grease around the edge to seal them? Or do you think that's important? I got one plate installed last night, and didn't think about using the grease until after it was all tightened down. I really don't want to have to pull it back off if I don't have to since the forward bolt is a pain in the ass to get to.

Also, I wonder if it might be a good idea to wire up a resistor in place of that air solenoid thingy so the ECU won't notice that it's gone. Just a thought....
Nope, didn't use any grease or sealant of any kind. Thought about it, but the gaskets/seals that were in place looked nice and clean & fresh, so I figured I'd try without and re-do if they didn't seal properly. Luckily, they sealed fine without any help.

As for the resistor idea, I just removed the solenoid. It didn't cause any issues with the ECU as far as I can tell. No codes or FI lights flashing. It would appear that it doesn't feed back problems to the ECU.

BTW, yeah the bolts are a pain to get at. I didn't remove the side panels, but am a professional contortionist with an allen wrench.
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post #16 of 148 Old 06-21-2004, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
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as of just a couple of days ago my FI light has come on and has remained on. I've made to changes since my KLEEN/AIS removal.

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post #17 of 148 Old 06-21-2004, 12:09 PM
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Canyon- There aren't any seals/gaskets in there.... are you talking about the reed valves? I wasn't sure if the bolts that came with the plates were long enough to keep those in, so I removed them.

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post #18 of 148 Old 06-21-2004, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by dnwhoop02
Canyon- There aren't any seals/gaskets in there.... are you talking about the reed valves? I wasn't sure if the bolts that came with the plates were long enough to keep those in, so I removed them.
Yes I am. The reed valves stay in place. If you remove them, you've lost your seals. I'd suggest you put them back, and things should be fine. The bolts do seem a bit short, but I had no problems with them. If you are using the Kyle plates that I have, the bolts should be the correct length.
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post #19 of 148 Old 06-21-2004, 03:23 PM
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aww man.... those reed valves are way too heavy! I'm looking for MAXIMUM weight reduction here... :D

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post #20 of 148 Old 06-21-2004, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by dnwhoop02
aww man.... those reed valves are way too heavy! I'm looking for MAXIMUM weight reduction here... :D
Well, I suppose you could take the ol' die-grinder to the inner portion of them, to reduce the weight of the valve. Just be sure to leave the sealing portion alone.

Then again, I've seen people use JB Weld to seal the passages before. I imagine this would save weight, but at what price, I don't know. :roll:
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