Valve Clearance Philosophy - Kawasaki
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post #1 of 23 Old 12-11-2006, 07:26 AM Thread Starter
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Valve Clearance Philosophy

Bit of a philisophical question for everyone: When adjusting valve clearance, there is a range specified by the service manual, i.e. .17 - .22mm for exhaust.

Do you adjust for middle of the range (19.5mm for exhaust)? Or do you aim for the tight side (17mm) or loose side (22mm)?

Advantages/disadvantages for a particular method that you're aware of?

Just curious, and about to tear down for a major winter service.

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post #2 of 23 Old 12-11-2006, 07:38 AM
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Yo CC; I have alot of experience adjusting valves, most if it on a Chevy
small block. However, in my humble opinion I would aim for the middle of the spec and if you have to err, I would say looser instead of tighter.When I
do valves of any sort I always go thru the process twice. Some people have recommended the go, no -go method of valve adjusting. For me, when I adjust I do the entire process twice.
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post #3 of 23 Old 12-11-2006, 08:45 AM
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Yeap, shoot for the middle of the range. I purchased a entire kit of shims made by hot cams for my dirtbike. About $70 but if you got a buddy with the same bike split the cost, because as you know otherwise the shims are about $4 each.

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post #4 of 23 Old 12-11-2006, 10:54 AM
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Middle to loose for me.
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post #5 of 23 Old 12-11-2006, 11:31 AM
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Often there will only be one possible readily-available shim size that results in the valve clearance being within specifications. The normal shim thicknesses are in 0.05mm increments, so there might not be a whole lot of choice in the matter. If there is a choice, loose is better than tight.

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post #6 of 23 Old 12-11-2006, 01:30 PM
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I did my 10's valve clearance myself last fall. Its safer to go loose than tight. A lot of riders neglect checking their valves, because of the price or work involved. Most of them go by ear, and listen for any valve chatter. This is not good coz tight valves don't make noise like loose ones. You can bring it to the shop for 400 bucks or you can do it yourself to save money.

You've been WARNED! its one of the hardest bikes out there to do.

The shims will run you from 8 - 10 bucks a piece.
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post #7 of 23 Old 12-11-2006, 02:34 PM
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Shoot for the middle.
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post #8 of 23 Old 12-11-2006, 06:00 PM
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I like em tight cause they just get looser the more you ride 'em. Valves on the other had are just the opposite!

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post #9 of 23 Old 12-11-2006, 08:56 PM
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*** You can not hear shim under bucket valves when they get loose****

Unno what clatter people hear, maybe cam chain; but it aint shims under them buckets. And if it is that loose that you can hear it....that motor won't be making that noise for but a few moments until it pukes and floats a valve.

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post #10 of 23 Old 12-11-2006, 11:57 PM
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If you set them to the loosest spec you will loose some top end and pick up some mid range.

If you set them to the tightest spec you will trade some mid range for top end.

If you want to go with either of the two extremes exactly you will need to make some shims in custom sizes.
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