How To: Fork Seal Replacement - Page 8 - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #71 of 80 Old 02-09-2014, 03:59 PM
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Replaced the seals. Went for a 100 mile ride today and washed the bike. Parked the bike and came back out after about 30 mins and one side is dry, but the other side has puddled up on the rim...great. Guess I'll give it a day or 2 and probably end up taking the freaking fork back off and replacing the seal, again.

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post #72 of 80 Old 05-20-2014, 01:14 AM
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I'm replacing my fork seals on my 2008 zx10r, but have no holes in the spacers to stick the puller in. What can I use to pull the spacer down?
Factory defect... my inside tubes were upside down right out of the dealership brand new... was a mission to get it out..

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post #73 of 80 Old 07-24-2014, 03:02 PM
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So it appears I just wasted $45 on a motion pro seal driver...

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post #74 of 80 Old 01-08-2015, 02:58 PM
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A couple of quick tips.

1) I always bottom the needle on the rebound adjuster. Don't crush it, just good and smug. This insures that when you remove the cap and reinstall the cap, that once you screw the cap back on until it stops, you are back to the same positions. This also insures that you retain the same amount of adjustment.

2) I usually apply a small amount of light grease to the seal. There is a pocket in between the inner and outer edge of the seal. The grease will fill that void and help extend the life of the seal. Just a small amount though.

3) I always clean the lower tube with Scotchbrite (Green). Sandwich the Scotchbrite and fork tube together in my hands and roll them together like dough. With the fork in a vise, this will cause a circular cross hatch on the tube as you slide your hands and scotchbrite up and down the fork tube. This crosshatch helps cut down on stichtion in the forks.
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post #75 of 80 Old 06-20-2016, 09:25 AM
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So I followed this guide and it was awesome! I didn't have the measurement tool for the fluid though so I measured it how the manual said by going from the top of the cap to fluid level. So my question now is, why are my two forks about 5mm different in height? The throttle side is sitting higher than the clutch side. All of the compression and rebound are all set the same amount of clicks and everything. Any suggestions? Do I go back in on the throttle side and lower the lockout 2.5mm and raise the lockout on clutch side 2.5mm to even them out? Will post a picture later
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post #76 of 80 Old 06-21-2016, 10:39 AM
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so i've been convinced to do this myself.

I have the part numbers for the seals;

92049-0064 Seal, Oil
92093-0042 Seal, Dust

Now i'm running K_Tech internals. I may well use this guide and the service manual and do another write up if there are any major differences.
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post #77 of 80 Old 03-12-2017, 09:04 AM
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Awesome writeup, and some excellent followup tips! Thanks everyone! If you want to remove the damping assembly, you can pretty easily make your own tool instead of buying the official Fork Cylinder Holder 57001-1287. I used a piece of 3/4" schedule 40 PVC pipe. Just cut 4, 10mm wide flats into one end, and bingo, the damping rod assembly comes right out. I used a hacksaw to cut the flats, drilled out the unneeded corners, and used a knife to clean off all the edges. You could probably get by with only 2 flats, which would be easier to make.
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post #78 of 80 Old 03-15-2017, 01:46 AM
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Quote:
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If you are only replacing the seals there is no need to strip the cartridge at all. With the fork top screwed in this means the spring is under tension and is pushing the bottom of the cartridge into the bottom of the fork leg giving it some resistance to turning when you remove the allen screw inside the axle point....remove this screw with an air ratchet (windy gun). It needs that sudden input of torque the windy gun gives, otherwise it will spin with the cartridge at hand tool speed.
Unscrew the fork top and the whole cartridge will come with it...separate inner outer tubes...renew seals.
Before assembling pump out the cartridge and then replace oil by volume.
Oh and don't tighten the screw with the windy gun...just do it by hand.
I know this is old but I will be doing fork seals on my soon to me 06 zx10r. So by removing that bottom allen head bolt I can seperate the forks and slide them apart? I know this is how I did it on my yamaha vmax and it was easy but I figured with this upside down style forks they were a completely different design. So pretty much it can be done just like on my old vmax? I just hate the thought of taking all that top stuff apart and setting it all back up. So if I understand what you are saying all I have to do is remove that large allen bolt on the bottom and then remove the top cap and the shaft and will slide apart just like the older bikes?
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post #79 of 80 Old 03-20-2017, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mvvette97 View Post
I know this is old but I will be doing fork seals on my soon to me 06 zx10r. So by removing that bottom allen head bolt I can seperate the forks and slide them apart? I know this is how I did it on my yamaha vmax and it was easy but I figured with this upside down style forks they were a completely different design. So pretty much it can be done just like on my old vmax? I just hate the thought of taking all that top stuff apart and setting it all back up. So if I understand what you are saying all I have to do is remove that large allen bolt on the bottom and then remove the top cap and the shaft and will slide apart just like the older bikes?
Interesting idea. I'm not sure if the top section will keep enough tension on the bolt or if the damping assembly will spin once the bolt is loose. The tricky part is going to be filling the oil level to the right height since that assumes the damping assembly is installed, and the spring is not. Which can't happen if it's taken apart from the bottom.

for reference: http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/...49100sch439658
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post #80 of 80 Old 05-22-2017, 06:11 PM
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New to this forum, joined so that i could get help to do my fork seals and my noisey clutch, this thread is just what i needed to get my seals done, great thread ?
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