How to: Crankcase Vent Mod. - Page 3 - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #21 of 143 Old 09-22-2009, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MagicMavis View Post
I even found a picture of it.

We chopped off some of the left side, welded into the pipe, connected a rubber tube to it from the crank case vent.

Amazon.com: Borg Warner CV2 Check Valve: Automotive


Now I am thinking something similar could be done with a 02 sensor bung and this valve.
As I read your post, I was thinking "I have a bung in a perfect spot".

I could make something like that fairly easy. I really need something to measure this flow with.
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post #22 of 143 Old 09-22-2009, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
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I understand how the vacuum is created. I like the idea of more vacuum as the RPM's increase as well.

Is the check valve necessary? If so, I may just order one also to try out. If not, I should be able to machine one this week.
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post #23 of 143 Old 09-22-2009, 08:00 PM
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I understand how the vacuum is created. I like the idea of more vacuum as the RPM's increase as well.

Is the check valve necessary? If so, I may just order one also to try out. If not, I should be able to machine one this week.
yeah the check valve would be needed if the reeds are removed because any time there is backpressure in the exhaust it will pressurize the crankcase(if you go to the junk yard or pepboys it will be easy to get. all cars with a vacuum operated brake booster use one to stop the vacuum in the reservoir from leaking back into the engine.
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post #24 of 143 Old 09-22-2009, 08:11 PM
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Good idea.

I was thinking along the same line of maybe removing the reeds if they actually close, but I need to get in there and understand more about how they work.

A check valve may be a good idea, but I would want some sort of very low pressure relief for this application.
This is how an exhaust mount should be mounted in the collector to get good vacuum signal.
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post #25 of 143 Old 09-22-2009, 09:24 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the diagram Vince. I had considered the angle of the fitting for a good vacuum velocity, but I did not think about the angle on the bottom of the fitting. Just by looking at your sketch it makes sense to have the angle parallel with the exhaust.

I'm thinking the depth isn't necessary. Angle is key.
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post #26 of 143 Old 09-22-2009, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, the check valve is needed but as I remember it takes very little vacuum to operate. Even lung pressure is enough drawing your breath in on it to open.

By all means, blaze a new trail. Its like standing next to the road and when that tractor trailer rushes by trying to suck you into its wake is how it works.

My next project involves finding out EXACTLY what and when the secondary throttle valves function. Kawasaki makes a part you can buy to place between the STV sensor and the wiring harness to measure the variable voltage with the engine running and no FI light. A small wiring harness adapter basically is what it is. So, when that part comes in I only need to velcro a voltmeter to the gas tank cap radar mount and go for a ride and measure the voltages to determine exactly when and at what throttle position they open under and when they truly are fully open. Then I might remove the STV's and re-map accordingly.

That project is #4 in line.
After some thought I like the check valve being there. I was trying to get greedy with the volume, but its not worth any positive pulses that may come from the exhaust.
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post #27 of 143 Old 09-22-2009, 09:48 PM
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What about oil vapors? It seems to me that now you will be sucking oil vapor through that line and eventually you are going to be burning oil in your exhaust and getting some smoke... and possibly damaging your cat (if you still have one)......

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post #28 of 143 Old 09-22-2009, 11:08 PM
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Yes Sir, thats exactly how we did it. Thanks for posting the diagram so others can well, ........get the picture.

However the arrow on the small tube should point the other way if that is indicating the direction of flow.
That arrow was not meant to show flow but to show where the hose was going to.
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post #29 of 143 Old 09-22-2009, 11:09 PM
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After some thought I like the check valve being there. I was trying to get greedy with the volume, but its not worth any positive pulses that may come from the exhaust.
the check valve I'm talking about are at least 1/2" ID so it will not hurt flow any.
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post #30 of 143 Old 09-22-2009, 11:24 PM
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Thanks for the diagram Vince. I had considered the angle of the fitting for a good vacuum velocity, but I did not think about the angle on the bottom of the fitting. Just by looking at your sketch it makes sense to have the angle parallel with the exhaust.

I'm thinking the depth isn't necessary. Angle is key.
In moroso's directions for the car it tells you to angle must be 45 degrees + or - 1 degree and at the depth shown in pic. I think on a 2" tube 1/2" in would be good.

sorry pics so small but it was a bmp file and it wont let me upload it any larger. you can go here to see the actual instructions : www.moroso.com/catalog/images/25900_inst.pdf
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Last edited by Vince10R; 09-22-2009 at 11:27 PM.
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