Since it will not quit raining here, I was forced to do a few modifications instead of ride.
I was under the tank and in the airbox for a test mod.
(coming soon) and snapped a couple of pics for a short visual "How to" (assuming you can lift your tank and remove the airbox cover on your own).
The first pic. is the original setup with the Air Switching Valve shown with a Red X.
The Red arrows are the hoses that connect the stock plates to the valve.
The Yellow arrow points out the two wire plug that will need to be undone.
The Red Circle is the vacuum line coming from the airbox that will need to be capped or plugged. This is where the Switching Valve pulls air from to be sent through the exhaust to help burn any unburnt fumes for emissions.
Second pic. is showing the hoses removed, airbox capped, and the 2 wire connector jumped (Thanks MagicMavis
) to avoid getting an FI light fault. The Air Switching Valve is completely loose and can be removed.
Third pic. shows the modification complete (except for securing the jumper wire).
The hose connecting the stock plates is part of the original vacuum line that was connected to the airbox. Cut to length and secured with 5/8" hose clamps.
The airbox is capped using a plug I had laying around and some high temp. silicone to hold it in place. (I have since removed this cap and used a 5/8" cap and hose clamp)
Maybe this will help someone.