Gen 3: 2008-2010 ECU fueling or ignition problems... - Page 2 - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #11 of 19 Old 07-21-2017, 03:13 PM
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I forgot to mention the stock pump is still going strong. Even still, I changed the filter, then tried another used but also good pump with no change.
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post #12 of 19 Old 07-21-2017, 06:11 PM
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How did you check them? If you didn't do a proper flow test, you cannot rule it out in the diagnostic process. Alternately, a fuel pressure reading/log at the point of failure would give you the same answer.

That said, common culprits are kickstand interlock switches, and less commonly tip-over switches. It would be worth checking to see if your upper injectors are firing properly, but that could be difficult without specialized equipment. Knowing what your AFR's look like leading up to the problem would also be helpful.

Attack life... it's going to kill you anyway.
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post #13 of 19 Old 07-21-2017, 06:34 PM
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I did the flow test per the manual on both pumps, but looking at the manual again, i didn't do the pressure test since I don't have a tester for that. I already have my replacement pump so I'll swap it in and see if that solves it.
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post #14 of 19 Old 07-24-2017, 09:46 AM
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If it doesn't you may want to chase the upper injectors as the next issue... an AFR reading under fault conditions would really help point you in the right direction.

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post #15 of 19 Old 08-21-2017, 11:16 PM
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So as an update, the lower mileage used complete pump actually made things worse, limiting me to around 8-8500k.

Next I noticed the stock fuel line finally developed a kink due to time and heat... Replacing it with a generic FI fuel line did some great things in terms of smoothing out my throttle response and increasing acceleration. The bike started losing flow even earlier though, around 7k but would accelerate with some surging back over 9500 with the same replacement pump (possibly higher but I didn't push it). Still a huge improvement, and even with another stock fuel line I'm keeping a standard line on it, since the bend is much more gradual the way I installed it.

I also tried a cheap replacement pump, which is where I am now. With that pump it'll go over 10k. Over the next few days of riding I'll get a better feel for how it's working, but given that PatrickG's issue ended up being dirty secondary injectors, as well as another member having the same issue, Spaz in the previous comment, and the fact that it's cheaper for me to clean them than to buy a decent pressure tester, I'm going for that first. If they end up being dirty I'll clean the primary injectors too, if not now in the near future.

I'll update when I have time to clean the injectors!
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post #16 of 19 Old 08-26-2017, 02:42 AM
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For the most recent update, I tried cleaning the secondary injectors and didn't see anything other than clean carb cleaner coming out. I didn't pulse it through each one for long though, as a dust storm was coming through so I had to get everything sealed back up. I'll probably repeat the cleaning with the secondary and primary injectors since I'm going to take the airbox off soon as well. At that point I'll inspect all the vacuum lines and inspect and replace the spark plugs with new ones.

I bought a fuel pressure test kit, and with the new cheap stock pump replacement it was reading 42 psi with a primed pump and at idle. I realize that's below the 43 psi, but I'll also have to check the error percentage of the gauge. Is there any possibility that at high rpm's the pressure changes or the pump can't keep up?

I didn't mention it earlier, but I have no fault codes.
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post #17 of 19 Old 09-06-2017, 01:18 AM
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So I ended up finding a used but perfect condition complete throttle body, upper and lower injectors, and all sensors for an excellent price and started out by swapping out the whole upper injectors and mount. No change.

Over the long weekend I finally got impatient enough to swap my stock exhaust for the Beet I picked up.... annnd.... the issue is gone!!!

So the welds on my original stock headers failed recently and I replaced them with used stock headers in great condition, with the rest of the exhaust original. I'm trying to figure out what caused this issue, and of course after all this trial and error it's the simple answer.

I removed the exhaust valve motor from the stock muffler, but left the valve and spring on... Well I ride daily in all weather conditions, and the exhaust is the one area Kawi chose not to coat in any way... The spring on the valve rusted and the end snapped, allowing the valve to rotate against only the weight of the spring and the force of the air through the muffler rather than the tension it should have holding it open. That's why it was sometimes a little better, or able to rev a little higher or lower before eventually hitting a wall as the pressure closed the valve.

Luckily I only spent about $150 on parts, and I don't plan on selling this bike so I'm good with having backups. I'm going to swap the original fuel pump, injectors, and all parts back as well. This was definitely a reminder to check all aspects of the simple things before moving on to more complicated tests. It also shows that, provided you maintain the bike decently, use distilled water, clean gas, good oil, etc, that you can have a bike with extended maintenance and no issues (that I didn't cause lol).
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post #18 of 19 Old 09-06-2017, 09:27 AM
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Ha! Freaking exhaust valve... I'm so used to removing those that that wouldn't even cross my mind. :)

Thanks for reporting back... I'll add that to the Diagnostic Crystal Ball Rolodex.

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post #19 of 19 Old 09-06-2017, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by SpazOnaZX View Post
Ha! Freaking exhaust valve... I'm so used to removing those that that wouldn't even cross my mind. :)

Thanks for reporting back... I'll add that to the Diagnostic Crystal Ball Rolodex.

I know right!?! I never wpuld have guessed because I would have assumed it was gone.

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