Ha Ha! I love this stuff! You're in for a lot of fun and surprises. :) I too am quite wordy, so here it goes:
First and foremost, my bike is still a streetbike. Pump gas and street tuning.... it's never been on a stationary dyno since the turbo went on it. I don't ride it every day anymore, but that's because I have something with bags for commuting... and every day commuting on a turbo 10R is really not fun. You'd think it would be a riot, and it is from time to time, but accessing that kind of performance takes a lot of empty straight road if you want to survive. 'Nuff said on that.
Reliable is all about the parts you use and how you maintenance them, along with how aggressive you tune it for a given fuel. Maintenance is key. Fuel systems WILL clog up and fail over time, this is just a fact. The more you ride it the faster this happens. On an NA bike this isn't to big a deal, it starts running like crap and you fix it. On a turbo bike it still runs great, and then it promptly melts the rings into the pistons. With advanced electronics you can mitigate a lot of that 'Surprise!' factor; AFR failsafes, fuel pressure failsafes, knock control, meticulous attention to datalogging, etc. If you plan on having someone else do all your building/tuning, though, THAT part will get really expensive, really quick. In reality you're looking in more money/time in management then you are in actual hard parts if you want reliability....it's not for the faint of heart.
Enough gloom and doom.... If you want something that will stomp 1000hp cars 15psi will get you there. Problem is you will need a lot of chassis work to keep it on the ground. Even with 19/39 gearing I can't get on to wastegate pressure (7psi) in first gear, and 2nd is sketchy. I ramp boost based on mph, and the thing doesn't settle down until about 185mph. I thought I could be a short wheelbase hero when I started all this nonsense... and I was (and still am) completely unprepared for how hard it is to ride like that. Put some arm to it, and definitely work on suspension before you try to throw more than 10 psi at the thing.... more power will just make you slower until you do.
Don't go too low on the static compression if it is going to live on the street. Good rods (crower or carrillo), pistons coatings, upgraded valves/retainers/springs will go a long way. If you get it to hook up at higher boost levels you'll probably want to look into better clutch basket options. USE GOOD FUEL, and/or use water injection. If you want reliability, you have to have repeat-ability... switching fuels and tunes frequently will lead you to problems. If you use water injection, you need intelligent failsafes for that built in to your management. Gauges just don't cut it... they're good for spot checking, but you just can't focus on them when it's doing what it does at 14+ psi. :) You can't have too good of a fuel system.... If you're only going to use 4 injectors I would recommend Injector Dynamics.
If you were doing all the work yourself, 15K will get you there easy. If you're paying someone else for everything, that might be a tight budget for something reliable. Sure you can spend 4K-6K and have it up and running and kicking ass, but getting it to survive 100's of passes requires a lot more time and effort.
Attack life... it's going to kill you anyway.