New zx10rr finally got delivered today after a long wait. Just a couple days too late to prep for the Thai WSBK support race this weekend but plan to start the breakin/race build next week and prepare for the 1st round of Thailand Superbike championship on April 1-2nd.
Will race my 2012 BMW S1000rr this weekend instead but look to get a good comparison of both bikes once I get the zx10rr race ready.
A few pics of earlier today when the bike arrived..
In the video u can see I’m pulling him in down the straight, but before last round at Chang International I couldn’t stay anywhere near him on the straights. So, it looks like the e85/MWR filter and tuning has made a sizable improvement in my bike.
He was riding my bike and I was on his when he left me for dead..lol
First time i've read through an entire 15 page thread. Awesome to follow along and thanks for sharing. I'm looking forward to the day the rr is faster than the s1000
Just back from worldSBK weekend where I put slicks on the Superstock zx10rr and raced in the Superbike support class. The race was announced late so not many of the quicker riders showed up but I still wanted to fix a nagging issue I’ve had with the zx10 for the last 6 months and finally get into the 1m38s.
Was right into 1m39s in practice on old tires but still had the hesitation/shaking feel from the bike on corner exit even after changing more parts that I hoped would fix it.
Into qualifying and couldn’t really drop my time much when on the 4th lap I lost all rear dampening in the rear shock and had to pull into the pits, let the shock cool down and tried a different setting but the bike felt horrible so I just came back into the pits. Then it was scrambling time trying to get a shock for the afternoon race.
Found an OEM shock but decided to stick with what I was running and see if I could get race distance out of it before it let go again. made it to lap 9 sitting 2s behind 2nd position when the same happened again on a 3rd gear wide open T10-11.. got the bike under control and managed to limp through the last lap to finish 3rd. Also a new PB on the zx10rr of 1m39.2, getting closer..lol
A good track buddie got his Ktech rear shock sent by bus to the track for 8am on Sunday just in time to install with my spring and a safe setting that I though would work. In the 10am race I managed to smash my outright PB lap at Chang on the s1000rr from a year ago (1m38.6) and post a new lap of 1m38.2 on my way to 2nd position.
So, it looks like most of the issues I was having with the bike the past 6 months were all related to the rear shock. I did have it recharged and Oil replaced but looks like there’s more wrong with it so it’s on it way back to the UK to get checked out. Will pick up a new Ohlins KA-468 to test out also as it’s always good to have a spare.
Have you played with the swingarm pivot? From my Googlefoo, it seems that the pivot insert is eccentric by 2mm, meaning you "should" be able to flip it (stock would be the lower setting) and gain rear ride height by 4mm. I understand that 4mm is about 1mm of trail adjustment but maybe that can help your midcorner turning issue? Maybe this is too much adjustment but it might be worth a shot.
Had planned to do it but I have the zx10rr and you can’t flip the pivot like the 2016-17 zx10r, I think they changed the 2018+ zx10r so that it can’t be flipped either.
I think this got brought up earlier but will removing the OEM damper throw any codes? Considering upgrading to a Toby Race Damper or GPR or something... I'm starting to see how much this OEM one sucks the more comfortably aggressive I get with the bike... Any advice on a reliable damper? I've only owned a GPR for a short time on my old R6, no complaints from my usage, I did hate how bulky it was though.
Personally speaking, I am not a fan of GPR dampers due to what you've mentioned and also they seem to give strange feedback to the bars. For my Gen5 (and Gen4) the best option would be to get a mechanical Ohlins damper. There's an aftermarket Ohlins like Newf runs and that's $$$. Or there's then Gen4 OEM Ohlins damper, which you can pick up on eBay for about $100. The trick to the gen4 one is to have it re-valved to race spec, which is about an $80 service. Kyle Racing - Roadracing Motorcycles has done a ton of these. LDH, a member here, works at Kyle and he can take care of it. That's the most affordable and most elegant option, in my opinion.
As for FI codes, it seems like if you remove only the Electronic damper, you'll get the ESD light. But if you also remove the ESD ECU (located on the top right side of the tank), the light will go away. This is what happened for me with KIT ECU/Harness.
Just tested it on a tight/bumpy track and I actually kept the standard comp/Reb setting, tried a few clicks each way on Reb but standard worked best. I’m sure I’ll need to adjust it more on the faster Chang international circuit.
And what about preload? I am using a 105 spring but I think it is too stiff for me, I weigh 80.8 kg.
This is the way I bought the shock, i know stock comes with 95 spring.
What do you use?
Also I tried setting sag and did not manage to get to recommended settings, I think the shock was either modified or is due to the spring. What do you think could be?
I’m currently running a 100 spring with about 10-12mm of preload, the tight track doesn’t have much grip so I need to run the softer spring to help with that.
At Chang International I was running 110 on my Ktech Rear Shock, so I’m not sure what I will need for that track with the Ohlins until I test there in June. My body weight is 83kg without gear.
I tested this past week-end with 20mm preload and standard compression/rebound settings on the shock and it worked well on our local bumpy track. Also tried closing preload 3 turns from fully open and felt good.
My body weight is 80kg without gear, I really wanted to get to that 24mm they recommend but was unsuccessful.
I tested this past week-end with 20mm preload and standard compression/rebound settings on the shock and it worked well on our local bumpy track. Also tried closing preload 3 turns from fully open and felt good.
My body weight is 80kg without gear, I really wanted to get to that 24mm they recommend but was unsuccessful.
How much Installed preload on the spring? if they just changed the spring and haven’t repositioned the collar you should be at 10mm installed. So fully open on your hydraulic preload adjuster would put u at 10mm, 3 turns in would be 11.5mm.
On the Ktech I would run between 8-12mm of preload on a 105 & 110 spring but my sag is about 20-22mm. I don’t actually measure it but just check on my datalogger as I run the suspension travel potentiometer and then just multiply by the link rate to get sag.
Not sure what your lap pace is but you should probably try a lighter spring and if needed just add more preload.
I don't know how much installed preload exists. The guy I bought the shock from, said he installed the 105 spring because he is 83 kg and he did not like the default one (95). I also have the 95 spring.
I guess they did not re positioned the collar, I will ask to be sure.
My measurements are as follows:
R1: 591mm (wheel is hanging in the air)
R2: 580mm (motorcycle is on her own weight)
R3: 571mm (me on the motorcycle, without riding gear)
*the fuel tank was not fully loaded, around 8-9 liters of fuel in it.
So my rider sag is 20mm, with hydraulic preload adjuster fully open.
My lap pace is 3 seconds slower from the fastest guy in my class. I am racing in F1000 (rookies). The fastest SBK guy is really fast, but he is a professional, 8 seconds faster than me. The rest of the SBK guys, that are not pros, are 4-5 seconds faster than me.
Anyone have any feedback on the 39N Superbike switches for the ZX10R work well? Or no
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