Gen 5: 2016 -> ZX10RR Superstock racebuild!! - Page 4 - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #31 of 105 Old 03-28-2017, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
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ZX10RR Superstock racebuild!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lanister View Post
I totally agree regarding the steering stops. I've been struggling to find a good product, however. Reactive has a set but it's very expensive and I don't believe it will handle an impact. Is this the steering stop you're talking about? If so, where did you source it?

Yep, that's the steering stop. I'll check where they're made but I think it's just a thai copy of some other brand or our team boss had them
made up himself after he's seen all the crashes. It's really easy and cheap to have small parts like that made here in Thailand.


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Last edited by Newf; 03-28-2017 at 06:34 PM.
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post #32 of 105 Old 03-28-2017, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morpheusro View Post
Same as you. However, I'm worried a bit that I did not complete the run in of the bike and I'm going to the track and I don't really know what to do, either run it hard or take it a little bit easy...

Any advice?

I've been running mine in hard but limiting the rpm. I've got 270km on it now and max 11k rpm. I'll slowly edge up the rpm until I get about 400km on the engine then it's good to go!!


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post #33 of 105 Old 03-28-2017, 06:32 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowLongYourUserNameCanBe. View Post
Have your dyno guy break it in.



Could you elaborate with pics and advice on the fitment issues with the I2M install. I would like to do the same with my RR, and the more knowledge going in, the better.



Really appreciate you taking the time to do a build log. Great stuff so far!!!

I'm using an aftermarket fairing stay but I'll have a look at the stock one to see if it needs to be modified also. Its just so I can plug the connections into the back of the screen properly.


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post #34 of 105 Old 03-29-2017, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newf View Post
Yep, that's the steering stop. I'll check where they're made but I think it's just a thai copy of some other brand or our team boss had them
made up himself after he's seen all the crashes. It's really easy and cheap to have small parts like that made here in Thailand.


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Thanks! I'd appreciate if you could tell me who makes the original part. It does appear easy to make but if I can spare myself the R&D work, I will :)
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post #35 of 105 Old 03-29-2017, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Thanks! I'd appreciate if you could tell me who makes the original part. It does appear easy to make but if I can spare myself the R&D work, I will :)

Looks similar to the R&G lock stops and they're cheap.


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post #36 of 105 Old 03-30-2017, 12:16 PM
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Looks similar to the R&G lock stops and they're cheap.


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Doesn't look like R&G make lock stops for zx10 :(
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post #37 of 105 Old 03-30-2017, 08:43 PM Thread Starter
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Still waiting for my exhaust to arrive so decided to make a couple little mods to the rear shock mounts to make it easier to get the shock off the bike during race weekends.
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Now no need to remove the tank/seat when changing shocks. Just take off the rear wheel and let the swingarm drop far enough to wedge the shock out through the back!!
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Installed a spare steering damper I had to test as the stock one just doesn't cut it on the race track.

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Today's plan is to install the GBracing protectors and check the race ecu mapping.


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post #38 of 105 Old 04-03-2017, 04:42 AM
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I've been to the track after ~500km on the road. Did some laps, not run hard, 7000 - 10.000 rpm, what do you guys think, shall I change the oil with mineral oil until 1000km or go fully synthetic?

Btw, I don't have reverse shifting yet, but the up/down shifting is enabled and is working only on downshift, any hints why? I have race ecu and harness and is correctly configured for UP/DOWN parameter with value 4, i've tried 5 also but nothing changed.

Thank you!

And why did you change the stock steering damper, you can set to enabled in the race software and you will immediately feel the improvement. It is by default disabled...
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post #39 of 105 Old 04-03-2017, 06:36 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morpheusro View Post
I've been to the track after ~500km on the road. Did some laps, not run hard, 7000 - 10.000 rpm, what do you guys think, shall I change the oil with mineral oil until 1000km or go fully synthetic?



Btw, I don't have reverse shifting yet, but the up/down shifting is enabled and is working only on downshift, any hints why? I have race ecu and harness and is correctly configured for UP/DOWN parameter with value 4, i've tried 5 also but nothing changed.



Thank you!



And why did you change the stock steering damper, you can set to enabled in the race software and you will immediately feel the improvement. It is by default disabled...

I'll be going full synthetic after about 400km. Have you checked what the shift voltages are? and cut times? Also, what version software are you running?

I haven't tested the stock damper with race ecu yet but another guy on my team has the stock damper and still gets a lot of headshake at one left/right transition at our local track. With stock damper/stock ecu it's really bad..



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post #40 of 105 Old 04-04-2017, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
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Had a bit of free time yesterday to compare oem part# between the 2017 zx10rr & zx10r and found some difference that I didn't expect. Crankcase, cylinder head and tappets were a given but also crankshaft & pistons have a different part #.

The front forks have a couple different part # and also lighter springs in the rr vs r. According to the race kit manual the zx10r comes with 11.25 N/mm and according to the parts list the zx10rr has 10.75 N/mm.

Also, anyone that was planning to just use some of the zx10rr parts in there zx10r, the tappets alone are 2000euro/set, wheels are 4300euro and they're not actually light weight wheels. Weighed the rear compared to my BMW OZ racing and 2kg+ heavier, so doubt they're much if any Lighter than std zx10r.


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