New zx10rr finally got delivered today after a long wait. Just a couple days too late to prep for the Thai WSBK support race this weekend but plan to start the breakin/race build next week and prepare for the 1st round of Thailand Superbike championship on April 1-2nd.
Will race my 2012 BMW S1000rr this weekend instead but look to get a good comparison of both bikes once I get the zx10rr race ready.
A few pics of earlier today when the bike arrived..
Yep. I've ridden a friends racebike and another stock bike with just exhaust/flash. Will take it for a 100-150km run on Monday to break the engine in with some Amsoil break in oil. Then hopefully I'll strip it down and install race ECU/harness and some other goodies on Tuesday before 2 days of training/trackday fun with Gino Rea (WSS rider) on 15/16th!!
After racing all weekend I finally got time yesterday to take the zx10rr for a little spin. Bike comes with thai spec ecu so it's similar to the restricted US spec, I've ridden a zx10 with std ecu but never std exhaust and was surprised at just how restricted it really is compared to a flashed/exhaust bike. Only did 100km and max 10k rpm but I really needed to keep it above 9k rpm for it to even pull in 6th. Wouldn't be racing anyone in a 6th gear roll on with a std spec bike unless u want to be embarrassed..lol.
That being said, I know how good the bike can be with exhaust/flash so I'm not too concerned. Had a little set back with getting an exhaust from one of the Wsbk teams, so now I'm waiting for a Spark system to be shipped next week.
Was a good weekend racing with my BMW, had a bit of a setup break through and dropped my PB by 1.1s and ended up only 5s off Rea's best race 2 laptime and 4s off the best BMW time. First race for the zx10rr at the same track is in May, so let's hope for similar laptimes atleast.
Parts are starting to pile up so hopefully I'll start stripping he bike next week. Couldn't get the exhaust size I wanted from Spark so ordered a full Akrapovic from Biohazardcycles.com.
I2M chrome plus dash
Ktech rear shock
Race Radiator
Sprint P16 air filter
Lightech rearsets
Race ECU & Harness
Clipons
My RR comes in this week, Then I can finally start my build and post up!!! Lots for me to do before my first race next month... Awesome build, I went with KTECH too..I love that new dash you have..DROOOOOOOOL.
I use the same dash on the BMW, so was a given to go with the same on the zx10 plus it has a few new features now also.
Put in about 70laps on the zx10rr today. One thing I did notice compared to the zx10r is that the quick shifter seems to have shorter cut times and feels a lot smoother. The rest in stock trim is about the same, suspension is stiff in front and soft in the rear (80kg rider). Backed out all the comp and went to 3 turns on preload made the front feel much better.
I replaced the stock brake pads with some used z04 before I rode the bike, cause we can sell the new pads for $130 here.. half the price of a new set of z04!!! Heard reviews of the brakes having a wooden feeling, but with just z04 brakes pads and everything else stock even ABS I was impressed at how good the stock brakes are even compared to my GP4RX on the BMW.
Now the strip down begins and the next time I ride will be with all the race bits on it..
New zx10rr finally got delivered today after a long wait. Just a couple days too late to prep for the Thai WSBK support race this weekend but plan to start the breakin/race build next week and prepare for the 1st round of Thailand Superbike championship on April 1-2nd.
Will race my 2012 BMW S1000rr this weekend instead but look to get a good comparison of both bikes once I get the zx10rr race ready.
A few pics of earlier today when the bike arrived..
Will take off the ABS/lines/pump tomorrow and install the race ecu & harness and some other small items. Then I'm waiting for the full akrapovic exhaust to arrive so I can finish the rest.
Well.. took a while this morning and a bit messy but finally got all the ABS lines off the bike and was ready to install the race harness.
Small intake compared to my BMW.
Replaced the stock intake/fairing stay and installed some steering stops. Recommend steering stops to anyone taking a zx10 to the track. We had 3 wrecked frames in one race weekend last year from small crashes where the bar end punched through the frame.
Fitted up the I2M chrome dash but need to modify the fairing stay tomorrow to be able to connect it properly. Added some zeta clipons, race switches and replaced my zx10rr stamped top triple with a race model.
I'm looking to replace the stock switches on the bars with race switches since the stock ones are huge and bulky. Can you clue me in on where you picked up your race switches? I also have the Race ECU and Race Harness so I'd like to get something like what you have... Also, were the race switches plug and play or did you have to cut the plugs off the oem switches and splice them into the race switches? I've found them online but many of the companies are overseas. I've found one company in the US that makes them but they are $500USD for the left and right sides. Seems kinda steep for some switches...but if that's the going rate for these, I guess I'll have to pull the trigger and buy them...
I totally agree regarding the steering stops. I've been struggling to find a good product, however. Reactive has a set but it's very expensive and I don't believe it will handle an impact. Is this the steering stop you're talking about? If so, where did you source it?
Yep, that's the steering stop. I'll check where they're made but I think it's just a thai copy of some other brand or our team boss had them
made up himself after he's seen all the crashes. It's really easy and cheap to have small parts like that made here in Thailand.
Same as you. However, I'm worried a bit that I did not complete the run in of the bike and I'm going to the track and I don't really know what to do, either run it hard or take it a little bit easy...
Any advice?
Same as you. However, I'm worried a bit that I did not complete the run in of the bike and I'm going to the track and I don't really know what to do, either run it hard or take it a little bit easy...
I've been running mine in hard but limiting the rpm. I've got 270km on it now and max 11k rpm. I'll slowly edge up the rpm until I get about 400km on the engine then it's good to go!!
Could you elaborate with pics and advice on the fitment issues with the I2M install. I would like to do the same with my RR, and the more knowledge going in, the better.
Really appreciate you taking the time to do a build log. Great stuff so far!!!
Could you elaborate with pics and advice on the fitment issues with the I2M install. I would like to do the same with my RR, and the more knowledge going in, the better.
Really appreciate you taking the time to do a build log. Great stuff so far!!!
I'm using an aftermarket fairing stay but I'll have a look at the stock one to see if it needs to be modified also. Its just so I can plug the connections into the back of the screen properly.
Still waiting for my exhaust to arrive so decided to make a couple little mods to the rear shock mounts to make it easier to get the shock off the bike during race weekends.
Now no need to remove the tank/seat when changing shocks. Just take off the rear wheel and let the swingarm drop far enough to wedge the shock out through the back!!
Installed a spare steering damper I had to test as the stock one just doesn't cut it on the race track.
Today's plan is to install the GBracing protectors and check the race ecu mapping.
I've been to the track after ~500km on the road. Did some laps, not run hard, 7000 - 10.000 rpm, what do you guys think, shall I change the oil with mineral oil until 1000km or go fully synthetic?
Btw, I don't have reverse shifting yet, but the up/down shifting is enabled and is working only on downshift, any hints why? I have race ecu and harness and is correctly configured for UP/DOWN parameter with value 4, i've tried 5 also but nothing changed.
Thank you!
And why did you change the stock steering damper, you can set to enabled in the race software and you will immediately feel the improvement. It is by default disabled...
I've been to the track after ~500km on the road. Did some laps, not run hard, 7000 - 10.000 rpm, what do you guys think, shall I change the oil with mineral oil until 1000km or go fully synthetic?
Btw, I don't have reverse shifting yet, but the up/down shifting is enabled and is working only on downshift, any hints why? I have race ecu and harness and is correctly configured for UP/DOWN parameter with value 4, i've tried 5 also but nothing changed.
Thank you!
And why did you change the stock steering damper, you can set to enabled in the race software and you will immediately feel the improvement. It is by default disabled...
I'll be going full synthetic after about 400km. Have you checked what the shift voltages are? and cut times? Also, what version software are you running?
I haven't tested the stock damper with race ecu yet but another guy on my team has the stock damper and still gets a lot of headshake at one left/right transition at our local track. With stock damper/stock ecu it's really bad..
Had a bit of free time yesterday to compare oem part# between the 2017 zx10rr & zx10r and found some difference that I didn't expect. Crankcase, cylinder head and tappets were a given but also crankshaft & pistons have a different part #.
The front forks have a couple different part # and also lighter springs in the rr vs r. According to the race kit manual the zx10r comes with 11.25 N/mm and according to the parts list the zx10rr has 10.75 N/mm.
Also, anyone that was planning to just use some of the zx10rr parts in there zx10r, the tappets alone are 2000euro/set, wheels are 4300euro and they're not actually light weight wheels. Weighed the rear compared to my BMW OZ racing and 2kg+ heavier, so doubt they're much if any Lighter than std zx10r.
Also, anyone that was planning to just use some of the zx10rr parts in there zx10r, the tappets alone are 2000euro/set, wheels are 4300euro and they're not actually light weight wheels. Weighed the rear compared to my BMW OZ racing and 2kg+ heavier, so doubt they're much if any Lighter than std zx10r.
On the steering damper, websites call for an SD 021, but the kit manual calls for an SD 001. It has 3mm more stroke. One of the parts to mount an SD 001 (collar) is no longer in production, but I've a spare if anyone needs it.
Really interesting about the wheels. As far as the pistons and crank goes, were you able to verify that the pistons are higher compression? I'm really curious about the differences. I'm wondering also if the crank was modified for the crankcase, or if it was made stronger / lighter in key areas.
That's a lot of weight more to be spinning compared to your Oz rims!I heard the same thing as Duhastme about the rims on the RR being lightweight but can't remember who from!what did you use to weigh them did you say a hanging type scale?luv the thread always interested in members developments from shop to track cheers man
I've read the same post that they were 1lb lighter than the aftermarket light weight wheels but think it's actually 1lb lighter than standard zx10r. It's doesn't actually say in that they they are suppose to be lighter it's just says lighter turning and lower moment or inertia...lol. Just used a floor scale so could be off a little but they're noticeably heavier just lifting.
One thing I noticed, in the race ecu setup for the QS, in the manual it says: select 4 for road, 5 for race (reverse), then set limits for +/- Shift Up Judgement Voltage Low, Shift Up Judgement Voltage High and Shift Down Judgement Voltage Low and Shift Down Judgement Voltage High, do you guys have any clues how this settings are calculated?
Still waiting on my exhaust to get through customs so I haven't been able to test anything yet, but from what I understand is the voltages correspond to what load is put on the shifter to make a shift, so depending on what rearsets you're running the voltages could change.
I'll need to test myself but was thinking you should be able to use monitoring function and test what voltage is seen to make the shift.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Kawasaki ZX-10R Forum
2.1M posts
128.9K members
Since 2003
A forum community dedicated to Kawaski ZX-10R superbike owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, racing, riding tips, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!