Gen 5: 2016 -> What Clip-Ons you guys using? - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 11 Old 12-20-2017, 03:10 AM Thread Starter
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Question What Clip-Ons you guys using?

Looking for some new clip-ons as I need to move the bars an inch forward and up; so instead of inline with forks, in front of forks, and in line with the triple.

Worried about clearance at full lock though. Looks to be about 10-15mm of space between bar and screen fairing.

Recommendations? Experiences?


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post #2 of 11 Old 12-20-2017, 05:25 PM
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What is your reason.
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post #3 of 11 Old 12-20-2017, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
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I hosted a seminar event with Dave Moss over the weekend and on the side we went through my ergonomics due to a struggle I've had with my left shoulder. Found that in the current position with the stock bars, it makes my shoulder blades arch and push together which puts a lot of tension on the delts and back of the neck.
For my torso height and arm length, moving the bars forward an inch and up an inch sets my shoulder blades into a neutral position, allowing me to relax more, and shift an angled screwdriver grip on the bars to a move preferable and accurate flat grip.

You want the screwdriver grip when you are cranked over for your inside hand as it allows the arm to collapse and gives finer control, though the outside hand stays in a horizontal grip. When you're straight on the bike though, you want the horizontal seating within the palm as this allows for greater strength and accuracy with counter steering and sets the wrist in a better position to allow for cleaner tendon movement across the back of the wrist.

While straight up, if you have the bar diagonal across the hand with bottom corner part of the heel of the palm on the bar, this places the inside of the bar straight across the muscle between your thumb and index finger which whether you notice it or not, causes you to steer and apply pressure WITH your thumbs which is weaker, and will cause hand fatigue.

Your bars being in the right place for your body can be the difference between being a bit worn out after a track day and being fucking shattered.

The first thing you do when you jump in a car for the first time is adjust your seat and steering wheel yeah? So why don't riders in general sort their ergo's on the bike.

I've found the clip ons I'm getting. Woodcraft 7/8ths with a 1 inch rise and 7 degree sweep.
https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/...s-with-78-bars

Weighted bar ends, and a reservoir clamp.
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post #4 of 11 Old 12-21-2017, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siwa View Post
Looking for some new clip-ons as I need to move the bars an inch forward and up; so instead of inline with forks, in front of forks, and in line with the triple.

Worried about clearance at full lock though. Looks to be about 10-15mm of space between bar and screen fairing.

Recommendations? Experiences?
Graves makes a really nice set. 20mm forward and up from standard. The standard downward slope of the bars is 10 degrees I believe and the Graves are 7 reducing the pressure on your wrists. Very comfortable.

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post #5 of 11 Old 12-21-2017, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siwa View Post
I hosted a seminar event with Dave Moss over the weekend and on the side we went through my ergonomics due to a struggle I've had with my left shoulder. Found that in the current position with the stock bars, it makes my shoulder blades arch and push together which puts a lot of tension on the delts and back of the neck.
For my torso height and arm length, moving the bars forward an inch and up an inch sets my shoulder blades into a neutral position, allowing me to relax more, and shift an angled screwdriver grip on the bars to a move preferable and accurate flat grip.

You want the screwdriver grip when you are cranked over for your inside hand as it allows the arm to collapse and gives finer control, though the outside hand stays in a horizontal grip. When you're straight on the bike though, you want the horizontal seating within the palm as this allows for greater strength and accuracy with counter steering and sets the wrist in a better position to allow for cleaner tendon movement across the back of the wrist.

While straight up, if you have the bar diagonal across the hand with bottom corner part of the heel of the palm on the bar, this places the inside of the bar straight across the muscle between your thumb and index finger which whether you notice it or not, causes you to steer and apply pressure WITH your thumbs which is weaker, and will cause hand fatigue.

Your bars being in the right place for your body can be the difference between being a bit worn out after a track day and being fucking shattered.

The first thing you do when you jump in a car for the first time is adjust your seat and steering wheel yeah? So why don't riders in general sort their ergo's on the bike.

I've found the clip ons I'm getting. Woodcraft 7/8ths with a 1 inch rise and 7 degree sweep.
https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/...s-with-78-bars

Weighted bar ends, and a reservoir clamp.
I've been eyeballing those Woodcraft with the 1 inch rise as well. How do you think they will fit clearance wise with your body work?
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post #6 of 11 Old 12-21-2017, 11:55 AM
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post #8 of 11 Old 12-22-2017, 02:55 PM
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Siwa check these out!e

They sit in front of front of front fork where the top clamp is not in line!they can be moved vertically up and down!they can swing to a different angle and also the tube can be moved to make the bars wider or narrower!its a pia sorting out leavers and oem combo switches but there's shitloads of adjustments!the Carbon fiber tubes are 22mm diameter (standard) but you will need to grind or file the throttle!clutch side switch gear and brake side little dicks that line up with oem bars!
I'm pretty sure if my dimensia is ok this morning these bars are 7degree angle
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Last edited by peterd10r; 12-22-2017 at 03:00 PM. Reason: Added words
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post #9 of 11 Old 12-22-2017, 03:10 PM
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And it is hard stopping cables and all other fittings hitting the instrument cluster at full lock but who uses full lock while your cornering!the only time you use full lock is moving the bike into tight positions to make it fit in places!fk me when I'm riding the input on my handlebars is no where near full lock and if it happens your rear wheel is usually passing the front and your feet have left your pegs!motocross is a different story but al least your in control then!well sometimes because you initiated that response
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post #10 of 11 Old 12-22-2017, 06:01 PM
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Bonamici has one straight and one raised.
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