Gen 4: 2011-2015 Want some guidance, more power.. - Kawasaki ZX-10R.net
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post #1 of 30 Old 01-26-2018, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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Question Want some guidance, more power..

So, all the guys I'm recently riding with now have 2017/2018 S1000RR and I believe one guy who I haven't seen yet, has the new 2017 ZX10. I need/want to keep up or pass these guys on my 2011 ZX10R. Not sure what I'm searching for here to avoid asking directly what I can do/upgrade for more power/faster. If there are threads I can be pointed to or if anyone can just give me some pointers, that would be great.

Really all I have in terms of upgrades which don't necessarily help is BMC air filter, ECU flashed by Archer a while back, and TaylorMade exhaust. I know that maybe a full system would be a benefit, not sure that I'd want to swap the Taylor exhaust since I love the look. Can I use "Better/Different" headers for more performance? What else can I do with bolt-ons without touching the motor? I'm thinking Dyno would help, any recommendations in the NYC or NJ area where I'm close to?
Note: If I must dive into the motor, what's first, the cam, like on a car motor?

Also, I'm going to replace the clutch, any solid recommendations? I've read installations of different brands, but all of them were mainly at the point of install. I saw that EBC for instance doesn't have different friction plates like the stock clutch does. Any difference in that?

So, I'm hoping to have all this done while its down time right now and since hopefully I may see a dollar from the tax returns, hoping might have a few pennies to spend on parts.

Thanks in advance everyone.

Last edited by F SANE IL; 01-26-2018 at 09:16 AM.
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post #2 of 30 Old 01-26-2018, 09:54 AM
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The Taylor made exhaust is shit. A friend of mine was going to do some trade work for the owner of Taylormade. My friend got a free exhaust from the owner of Taylormade and put it on his 2009 Cbr1000. It made the bike run like shit and he had a loss of power on the mid to top end powerband. The Taylormade pipe is made for looks only. No race testing or tuning for power. Dump it. Then get some riding lessons...... Unless you are dragging in a staight line. And even then experience and rider skills RULE. I stomp 1000cc bikes in the canyons on my 2013 Zx6r all day long. Power doesn't mean shit unless you can use it effectively.
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post #3 of 30 Old 01-26-2018, 10:12 AM
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it maybe easier and cheaper to just sell the 2011 and get something newer to compete with these newer gen bikes. unless you want to start rebuilding the engine/nos/turbo/quickshifter.

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post #4 of 30 Old 01-26-2018, 10:14 AM
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30 shot

/thread

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post #5 of 30 Old 01-26-2018, 10:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Prophet View Post
The Taylor made exhaust is shit.
2x this - I bought the Taylormade, sold it damn near immediately. Looks good - and that is about the most (only) positive thing I can say about it.

Honestly it all depends on the type of riding/racing you're doing. On the track, the 4th gen can still hold it's own. If you're slow there, then in most cases, you need to look at setup, suspension and possibly what you may be doing that is holding the bike back. I can flog the hell out of my 4th gen just as well as my 5th gen.

But if you're simply doing highway pulls, sorry to be the bearer of bad news - the only way you're going to be able to keep pace with a 17 ZX10R and/or 17 S1000RR on a 4th gen is by opening the motor. They are just too strong of bikes. Maybe paired up with another 4th gen and/or 2010-2014 S1000RR you'd likely have better luck with. Even with the S1000RR it's going to be a rider's "race" or a question of who is the lighter rider and/or the better set up bike.

In any event, here is a list of things to look at... (not a fully conclusive list by any measure).

* I always say the full is worth it, having had multiple slip ons before going with the full system on my 4th gen (5th gen went right to the full). Depending on where you're starting your run from, you could be looking at a double digit difference in torque/horsepower.
* Head is terrible on the 4th gen, so that should be addressed. Once it is though, then the OEM header becomes a bottle neck. At which point you'll then want to switch out to a full system to get the max benefit of a better flowing head.
* Degree the cams (don't waste the money on the KRT ones)
* Knife edge the crank (APE does good work)
* Aluminium rear sprockets and lighter chain. I have even seen titanium front and rear sprockets (something I want to try this season). EK 3D 520GP (the 520GP, not just the 520, 520GP) is the best chain out there in my opinion.
** Gearing will be key depending on what you're racing for; either all out acceleration or top speed
** Further reducing rotational mass one can look at a lightened rear rotor similar to MMR
* Lighter wheels
* Lose weight where you can on the bike - I have replaced nearly every bolt on my 4th gen with aluminium or titanium fasteners. Lightweight battery will help too.
* If the bike is ABS, remove the hardlines and run your own braided lines instead
* Change out the front rotors for fully floating rotors in an attempt to reduce parasitic drag
* Have the bike tuned, tuning/data logging at speed is key and correcting the fueling per gear will help too
* Quickshifter of course will help as well preventing the bike from slowing down on upshifts (our hands are not as fast or faster than electronics)
* Tune per cylinder (the first 11-15 ZX10R we did picked up nearly an extra 10HP)
* Better air filter, I recommend MWR WSBK filter but it requires extensive tuning (see above; at speed, per gear and per cylinder) to get the best out of it as it's not just a drop in instant power adder
* Higher quality fuel or even race fuel
* At higher speeds aero becomes extremely important - so if you have a shaved down windscreen or one that is hard to get behind, physics is working against you. Even your mirrors can hold you up.


At this point, it may behoove you to either swap in a 5th gen motor, ECU, harness/electronics and throttle bodies to get a little extra boost in power. Or possibly future proof yourself, at least for a little bit as nothing is future-proof in this industry, and look at a newer model with some upgraded tidbits. Personally, the Ducaca V4 Seņor edition is calling my name this spring.
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Last edited by ZX10RArcher; 01-26-2018 at 10:31 AM.
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post #6 of 30 Old 01-26-2018, 10:52 AM
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step 1. Install turbocharger.
step2. That's it.
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post #7 of 30 Old 01-26-2018, 12:00 PM
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Change the gearing...my buddy has a S1000RR and I beat him to about 120 all the time...I am up 2 in the back. I have the stock converter with shorty Akra slip on. But also have reflash and custom map, removed secondaries. I'm at 184 RWHP. Lots of bottom end and midrange.
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post #8 of 30 Old 01-26-2018, 12:00 PM
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Mo power! Just add about 10 stickers to each side of the bike. The ones that add the most HP are the "K&N", "NOS", and "Vortex" decals. The "Monster Energy" ones don't add nearly enough.
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post #9 of 30 Old 01-26-2018, 12:03 PM
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Seriously, the recommendations above my posts are the best ones. But it depends on what kind of riding you're doing. Topspeed? Acceleration? Street? Road course? Dragstrip?

The first thing I would tell you is to regear that thing. Bolt on a +2 rear sprocket and see what you get. You need to make better use of the power you have rather than worrying about bolt-on parts for the motor.
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post #10 of 30 Old 01-26-2018, 12:17 PM
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So my gen has:

Sprint filter
Velocity stacks
Ecu flash and fuel tune
-1 +1 sprockets
Graves exhaust, no car etc

I had no major issues with new r1's or the new aprilia rsv4 rf

Be lighter than they are ad learn to clutchless shift.

2013 10R
2007 650R
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