Good evening everyone. i was out riding last night and unfortunately i broke a good portion of my teeth in my sprocket and it's time to order a new one. From the previous owner its a 520 set with rk chain, rear sprocket was renthal and my front sprocket was driven. not trying to piece out like that and looking to get one set if possible. i read some good things about driven but wanted to see if anyone has any other recommendations they think i should go with. Thanks in advance for all advise really appreciate it!
I've been using and selling the Drive Systems steel stuff with DID ZVM-X chain for about 4 seasons now. They last forever with minimal maintenance. In fact I kinda wish they weren't so good as I sell a lot less sprocket kits now that everyone has gone away from Alloy sprockets we all used to use to these Steel rears.
Now is a good time to just start from scratch. Screw the 520 chain BS and stick with OEM pitches. Also, avoid driven for your drive-train. I know they're products are widely used and backed but stick with a company that specializes in chain/sprocket manufacturing like Vortex, DID, Renthal, JT, or RK. Try a -2/-4, 525 pitch set-up. You're dropping weight and you're not screwing with any power (you'll get a +2% torque gain and -2% top speed). If you're having a hard time finding sprockets with that tooth count try this: https://www.motosport.com/motorcycle/sprockets?has_mmy=true&sprocket_position=Rear
Only con to dropping weight like this though is sprocket life. You're looking at 90% life vs OEM 525 gearing, but probably 100+% the life of your 520 set-up.
1. The bike as delivered is limited to 186mph
2. The bike as delivered barely has enough hp to pull redline in 6th gear and you aren't going to set any top speed records
3. Who in the hell is really riding around at redline in 6th gear at 186+mph?
I really respect your point of view...makes you sense...
1 - A flash and the bike is not limited.
2- correct, the bike barely gets to near the limiter in 6th even with flash... mine has like 193hp and -1F gets 13700rpm in the data logger when riding here in 6th gear.
3- Bring you bike to Dominican Republic and get ready to ride really fast.... more than a couple of bikes here blown up in the way from Sto Dgo to Punta Cana... long straights and 130+mph curves. for 50kms.
you need top speed not to get records, you need top speed because when you ride with guys that can ride fast you need all you can get, and my experience is, you get 2 short and the bike just revs and revs and dont move forward (hope I make sense), 2 long and the bike does not get to the sweet spot, you need the bike short so it can move the bike when winds are not helping and when the wind favors, the bike the power does not drop...
-1F and +2 on the back you lose on a gen4 like 6mph
Ya I guess. For me -1, +2 is perfect. It puts me in the meat of the power at all times. For all the Canyon and tracks around my area top speed is not KING. The race is won in the turns, and the turns do not need all that speed that would come from even the stock set up.
I wear out chains about every 18k miles; chain wear based upon your riding conditions and riding level. Oem chain wear well but wear out for me about 12k; dealer installed new EK chain and that stretched with every ride but can't recall number of miles it lasted but very little. Steel front wears good but steel back oem or vortex have the best wear for me; steel only.
I wear out chains about every 18k miles; chain wear based upon your riding conditions and riding level. Oem chain wear well but wear out for me about 12k; dealer installed new EK chain and that stretched with every ride but can't recall number of miles it lasted but very little. Steel front wears good but steel back oem or vortex have the best wear for me; steel only.
I’m running 15/41 (-2/+2) and plan to test 15/42 this weekend on a tight track we race at here in Thailand. Zx10 finally has some bottom end with that gearing...lol
-1 made the bike the way it should come from the factory. I am soon installing -1 +1 with 520 ERV3 to try but I think it will be a bit too much for my taste
For what it's worth, I have -1 +2 on my gen5 and top speed is limited to 179 mph redlined in 6th. It hurt me a little at Road Atlanta's back stretch but not enough to change anything. With this gearing I can run in 2nd gear for most hairpin turns which is beautiful so I don't have to risk a false neutral finding 1st.
Hi am just doing abit off research and came across your post am looking at going - 1+2 on my gen 4 zx10r 2011 and I am not sure wat chain is best for this bike? Found renthal hard anodised rear & front?
Hi am just doing abit off research and came across your post am looking at going - 1+2 on my gen 4 zx10r 2011 and I am not sure wat chain is best for this bike? Found renthal hard anodised rear & front?
Ya know if you are racing and this is the difference of being on the podium or not an aluminum sprocket makes sense as it is small amount of money compared to a proper race budget to save a few ounces of weight, but outside of that with a 200hp bike you are way better off with a steel rear 520 sprocket when compared to the Alloy Sprocket which is always going to wear out and do so much quicker.
I have posted this before, but the info is still valid and I specifically mention Renthal Sprockets.
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